Dry67

If the engine numbers don't match and there isn't any documentation, how can I tell if a 67 vette originally came with a small block or a big block from the factory? .

The car is for sale at a dealership in Ohio. It has a 427-435, rally red, coupe. Through phone conversation & email, I was told it was originally blue and has a small block rear. The tach redlines at 6300. I suspect it originally had a small block and was repainted and the big block tossed in to get more $ on a resale. My next step is to go see in person, but I'd like to know what I'm in for. I haven't had a vette since 1996, and this one looks nice.

Any info is well appreciated. Thanks

Dave

67's

You will never be able to tell 1oo% but you can make a good guess, by the original equipment that is left, what type of half shaft's, redline of tach, oil gauge, rear-end code etc.


If you post some more info we can help.

Tom M

62fuelie

For starters, the battery will be on the left (driver's) side on a BB, or on a SB with factory air. BB will have a rear sway bar, 7 leaf rear spring, half shafts with bolted caps vs U clamps, and the hood support should be on the left side, with no evidence of it being on the right side. Also, no overflow tank, or holes where it used to be. Keep in mind that with the really stupid money that some folks will fork over for an "origional" BB car, there are those crafty and skilled enough to make all the changes mentioned and make it difficult for even a knowledgeable person to tell the difference. The 67 would have had a tank sheet, and if it still exists it could document the original engine. Tank sheets are also available in reproduction, so keep that in mind as well.

NVaVettes

Its my understanding that one of the "best" clues is the size of the
metal fuel line running from the fuel tank, between the frame and body,
and up to the engine.

The big block cars had a larger fuel line that ended in a 90 degree
bend up by the engine area.

The body has to be removed from the frame to really replace/change this line correctly.

Nowhere Man

yes the line should be 3/8 in size.

also look for saway bar thinkness, BB should have them in the rear. the raditor should be bigger also see if you can get casting numbers on the block.

JohnZ

SB and BB used the same size 3/8" main fuel line - the only difference was the bend at the front where the rubber hose to the fuel pump attached. BB's used the same 9-leaf rear spring as SB's; only BB F-41 cars used the 7-leaf spring, and in '67 F-41 was only available on L-71's (and L-88's).

NVaVettes

I'm confused....

Where should the battery be located for a real 67 427/435:
driver's side or passenger's side?

65 BB and Very-early 66 BB battery was located on the drivers side behind front wheel....true?

NVaVettes

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a "real" 67 427/435 should have:

o Transistorized Ignition (K66)
o TI distributor
o TI amplifier
o TI wiring harness
o TI coil

o Tachometer w/ redline starting at 6500

o 0 to 80 lb oil pressure guage

o driver's side hood support
(no signs of support ever being on the right)

o rear sway bar
(front and rear sizes dependant on F41 option or not)

o rear half shafts w/ cap & bolts
(not SB U bolt w/ nuts)

o larger copper radiator
(as compared to SB aluminum one)

o corresponding (larger) shroud

o M21 (or M22) transmisssion
(no M20s?, no 3-speeds?)

o no A/C, Powerglides

JohnZ

427/435's had the battery in the same location as non-A/C SB's; only difference is the length of both cables, and the BB (+) cable has a clip riveted to the firewall below the heater case near the edge of the tunnel opening.

MosportGreen66

You won't be able to know for sure but you should contact Keith Biggers the NCRS National Team Leader.

If your interested you should go on ncrs.org and click Contacts

PRNDL

Dave, You should get up to Carlisle in 2 weeks to look at some vettes. Several vette "dealers from Ohio" will be there. You could even ask them to bring the car you are interested in buying. You are unlikely to get a bargain purchasing from a dealer. You should inspect the car carefully and regard their claims with a degree of skepticism.

Dry67

I thank all for the useful information. I am going to look at the car in person soon. I haven't slept in days and all I do is think about this car! HELP! It appears to be everything I want from the pics. (67 BB, rally red coupe) I don't care that the engine isn't original, I just don't want to continue to dump $ into this car after I spent a good buck buying it. They are not pushing the car with any false claims, but I think Carlisle will be my best bet!

tuxedo

You have contracted the dreaded mid year disease of I gotta have it! Be careful as this may cloud your judgement. Go to Carlisle and take your time and check them all out. Maybe meet one of the Forum members out there that can really check this car out for ya if the Ohio dealer brings it. Also beware that there are plenty of stories on this Forum about Ohio dealers. You may very well buy that car but there is always another on that will come along.

mdz06vetter

in Ohio - would guess, ProTeam!? be very careful when checking the car out - insist on being able to get the car in the air, etc. - if you don't know that much about BB's, would suggest you find someone locally (NCRS or other organizations) to accompany you to look for the "tell-tale signs" folks indicated in the thread - Terry and his folks are "very good" at making subtle changes and getting top dollar from unsuspecting folk

VG

Drop the rear sway bar and look for the surface below the sway bar to be painted or not. If it had a rear sway bar from the factory, the surface will not be painted.

JohnZ

Yes, it will - the frame was dip-painted by the supplier (A.O. Smith-Granite City, Illinois), and the rear sway bar bushing brackets were installed later at St. Louis; ignoring corrosion, the frame surface under the brackets and cushions will be painted.

C2IT

Dang, you guys are good

I, too have contracted the "midyear gotta have it" disease. Maybe some of the senior members could put on a "Midyear 101" for us newbies at Carlisle, or at least wear badges so we can identify you I'm not concerned that my first midyear is matching numbers, but I don't want to pay for matching numbers if they're not

Gary