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WTB: 1963 Gauges and Clock

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Old 10-21-2014, 08:37 AM
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65silververt
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Default WTB: 1963 Gauges and Clock

Looking for a nice set of Gauges and a clock. I need the tachometer to be for a high hp car 340-360hp. Will pay top dollar for a nice set

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Old 10-22-2014, 09:44 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Are you looking for a set of gauges in the one-year-only cluster, or, just individual gauges ?
Old 10-22-2014, 12:54 PM
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65silververt
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I'd like a whole set in a cluster, if possible
Old 10-23-2014, 02:51 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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This may not be up to your standards depending on the level of your restoration but here goes; I had a complete restored '63 cluster but swapped the housing and speedo into my car:

So - this cluster's gauges are all restored however the speedometer needle works and is accurate but it won't run the odometer - not a bad fix with the cluster out but has to be done by a specialist. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. The tach is the high-HP version.

Rest of gauges work and are restored. The 60# oil gauge is correct for the higher HP cars in '63 unless they are a very late VIN code which is when they went to the 80# gauge.

The cluster is correct for '63 but has a crack on the lower edge (missing chunk) but can't be seen sitting in the car. I owned the car for 6 months before I even noticed it. In the interest of full disclosure that crack prevents you from mounting the LH air vent cable as factory. The bracket will have to be relocated or some other attachment worked out. I have included several hi-rez pics of that area so you can see for yourself if its something you can deal with. If I were keeping the cluster I would JB-Weld a piece of bent metal stock in that area and then use plastic filler to build a flange up to the height of the rest of the cluster's black face at that edge, use something sharp to simulate the grain, paint the patch and drill two holes for the air vent cable bracket. Not that tough a fix.

Otherwise the cluster is very nice - no other damage and the fragile chrome/silver rings around the gauges are nearly pristine as you can see in the pics....

I don't have a clock...

I've seen restored tachs go for $300 by themselves...I would take $550 for this whole shebang... Again no hard feelings if this setup doesn't work for you...

I would throw in a new trip meter reset cable I have laying around as well as a new rubber grommet/spring set that goes around the mast jacket escutcheon where it meets the cluster housing. I think I may have a new radio noise suppression capacitor or two for the back of the cluster as well.

FTF
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Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 10-23-2014 at 03:21 PM.
Old 10-28-2014, 10:31 AM
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65silververt
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Frankie,
I just saw your reply. Done deal! This is perfect and we will take it! I will need to swap to the 80lb oil pressure gauge, but that isn't a problem. Please send me your address so i can get a check in the mail.

Thanks so much!
Chris
Old 10-28-2014, 11:55 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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I answered your PM and as I said therein.....since I posted this pictures I've attempted a repair on the broken pot metal on the gauge cluster and you need to look over pics I will send to your email address to make sure you are OK with what I've done...

As you can sorta see in the first set of pics in this thread that entire edge was busted out and so I figured it was a goner. But then I got busy.

The repair is with heavy gauge steel stock screwed to the rear of the cluster and bonded to the cluster's metal with JB-Weld (regular strength -- not the weaker JB Weld QiK). A piece of original grained vinyl was embedded in the repair so that only a small joint is left that I can easily "grain" the JB Weld to match. This repair will be every bit as strong as the original metal and I've made sure the wiper switch will still install with no problems. Holes will have to be drilled for the left hand vent cable bracket (I was going to put captive nuts inside the cluster secured by JB Weld for these) and another hole drilled and threaded for the dash escutcheon (which will cover much of the repair). The holes basically match their counterparts on the other side of the cluster. I would leave you to do that....

This is not a "quick and dirty" repair. i would put this cluster in my car tomorrow and would put it in a judged car in a heartbeat. Its now a good-looking, cluster, strong and functional. BTW - you can't really rechrome the edges of the gauge rings on the cluster you already have that's pitted up -- they NEVER come out right.

The last pic is where I am now with this...just got to let things dry...a final sanding and paint.....

I think asking another $50 now is fair (this was a lot of work and some bloody fingers) if that's OK with you.

FTF
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:52 AM
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As long as the wiper switch will still work, i am in. Nice repair!
Old 10-29-2014, 10:16 AM
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Nice repair.
Old 10-31-2014, 09:14 AM
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OK... Here is what I have after I'm done fooling with it. Again, in full disclosure:

1) Speedometer needle works and is accurate but does NOT drive the odometer - quick fix by the right shop but needs special equipment.

2) You will have to drill two holes for the left hand fresh air vent bracket and adhere captive nuts inside cluster for attachment via screws - JB Welding them should work.

3) You will have to drill a third hole and thread it for the dash escutcheon (the circular metal piece that goes around the steering column mast jacket.

Items 2 & 3 should be mirror images of the three original holes that already exist on the opposite side. The last picture is paint you can buy that matches the original console face perfectly. You can just dab it on LIGHTLY for touch up and tap it with a fingertip to slightly dull it the slightest bit and you'll never know the spot was touched up.

With the escutcheon on and the fresh air vent bracket bolted up to the bottom of the cluster this repair will be undetectable and its stronger than the original pot metal. I test fit an original wiper switch and installs just fine.


Make SURE that this oil pressure gauge won't work for you before swapping it out. Even the SHP engines used the 60# for a while in '63.


UPS ground with $750 insurance is about $27 so let's call it $30 and $600 for the cluster is $630. I should probably have my head examined and do the 3 items above and sell it for $1,000+ but I keep my word. Paypal works (fdreano@earthlink.net) or personal check (I'll send cluster after its cleared).

I need to know the status of the '63 side glass you've offered up in your PM. If I can't get original side glass I might have to go repro...much prefer original and to buy from a forum member



Frank Dreano
426 Largovista Dr
Oakland, FL 34787
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Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 10-31-2014 at 09:19 AM.
Old 11-01-2014, 02:19 PM
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65silververt
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Ok Frankie! I'll get a check in the mail early next week. I still havent had time to clean up the side glass yet, but i will work on that Monday

Thanks

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