1964 Coupe Rolling Chassis(rust free)
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
1964 Coupe Rolling Chassis(rust free)
I have a very nice 1964 Rolling chassis for sale. The frame is one of the most rust free I have seen with no pitting! This came from a running and driving car, so the brakes, trailing arms, rear end, steering, etc. are all in good working order. It comes with a new gas tank and a new rear leaf spring. It has 67 rally wheels. I was going to use this on a 63, but found a nice 63 chassis to make that car correct.
This is an early 64 chassis, so it does not have the gussets. It also has the inner mounts, which I believe were specific to early 64 cars only, but I could be wrong. If you wish to add mounts for a convertible or gussets, all of these parts are readily available from Corvette Central.
Asking $4200.00 OBO I am in Birmingham, Alabama 35124
I will post pictures of the chassis and details of the rear end this evening.
Please let me know if you are interested or have any questions.
Chris
This is an early 64 chassis, so it does not have the gussets. It also has the inner mounts, which I believe were specific to early 64 cars only, but I could be wrong. If you wish to add mounts for a convertible or gussets, all of these parts are readily available from Corvette Central.
Asking $4200.00 OBO I am in Birmingham, Alabama 35124
I will post pictures of the chassis and details of the rear end this evening.
Please let me know if you are interested or have any questions.
Chris
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
A 65 or 66 Chassis or frame is what you are looking for. They are identical, minus two extra holes for a shifter mount reinforcemnt bracket that was added in 66. The 67 is the same minus the e-brake bracket location.
The 63 body was hard mounted to the frame and therefore the mounts are in different locations. I am sure you are aware that 63, 64 and some early 65 cars had drum brakes.
The biggest difference on the 65 up frames is the front crossmember, which has a recess for clearance of the big block balancer pulley. Apparently the rear kick ups are slightly different too with a slight recess for caliper clearance, but i have never been able to tell the difference.
Other differences are that the 63-64 frames did not have slots for the side pipe mounts.
This particular frame was a very early 64 frame, so it does not have the reinforcement gussets at the differential crossmember where it meets the main frame rail and it also has the extra inner body mounts.
So, this frame is really only good for someone with a 64, or someone with a 63 that doesn't mind using rubber mounts instead of shims. You could use it for a 65-66, but it would not be correct.
UNLESS, you can weld and don't mind transferring part of your current frames front crossmember(section with the additional recess), adding gussets, and cutting off the inner mounts and smoothing out the metal.
The extra components on the chassis are probably worth around 1500-2000....3.36:1 prostration rear differential, trailing arms, drum brakes, struts, half shafts, front control arms, springs, steering box, steering linkage, etc.
Wish I could help you, but I just sold a 66 frame a few months ago. Ill keep a look out and if i see anything pop up, ill let you know
The 63 body was hard mounted to the frame and therefore the mounts are in different locations. I am sure you are aware that 63, 64 and some early 65 cars had drum brakes.
The biggest difference on the 65 up frames is the front crossmember, which has a recess for clearance of the big block balancer pulley. Apparently the rear kick ups are slightly different too with a slight recess for caliper clearance, but i have never been able to tell the difference.
Other differences are that the 63-64 frames did not have slots for the side pipe mounts.
This particular frame was a very early 64 frame, so it does not have the reinforcement gussets at the differential crossmember where it meets the main frame rail and it also has the extra inner body mounts.
So, this frame is really only good for someone with a 64, or someone with a 63 that doesn't mind using rubber mounts instead of shims. You could use it for a 65-66, but it would not be correct.
UNLESS, you can weld and don't mind transferring part of your current frames front crossmember(section with the additional recess), adding gussets, and cutting off the inner mounts and smoothing out the metal.
The extra components on the chassis are probably worth around 1500-2000....3.36:1 prostration rear differential, trailing arms, drum brakes, struts, half shafts, front control arms, springs, steering box, steering linkage, etc.
Wish I could help you, but I just sold a 66 frame a few months ago. Ill keep a look out and if i see anything pop up, ill let you know