Detailing rear suspension... is Rustoleum good enough?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Detailing rear suspension... is Rustoleum good enough?
Getting ready to start the rear suspension reassembly. I'm detailing (painting) just about everything. Typically I prime and paint with Rustoleum spray paints. Is there a better store spray paint? Would an epoxy spray paint be better?
#2
Le Mans Master
Regardless of brand, a self-etching primer will give the best
base for store-bought rattle cans.
I prefer Krylon - since it has superior run-resistance and dries quickly.
Rustoleum is good, too.
base for store-bought rattle cans.
I prefer Krylon - since it has superior run-resistance and dries quickly.
Rustoleum is good, too.
#3
Le Mans Master
I've tried both Krylon and Rustoleum. I always felt the Krylon was better. If you want some really good paint look at Eastwoods line. I've used their stuff and never had a problem. And it always seemed to look better and last longer than the store bought brands. JMHO.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by vettfixr
I've tried both Krylon and Rustoleum. I always felt the Krylon was better. If you want some really good paint look at Eastwoods line. I've used their stuff and never had a problem. And it always seemed to look better and last longer than the store bought brands. JMHO.
I was actually looking at my new Eastwood catalog when I typed this question. Eastwood is very expensive, and I prefer to be able to run out to the store when I need paint versus having to order and wait for delivery. I guess you could say I'm cheap and impatient
#5
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2003
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I used POR-15. Granted it doesn't look anywhere as neat as Rustoleum Satin Black and it has brush strokes. It is also a lot THICKER then spray paint.
I did mine about 2 years ago and I live near the beach. It still looks as good as the day I did it and everything wipes off. At least use a Satin finish regardless of what you use as it is easier to wipe dirt of, gloss is even easier but tends to get runs in it and show every little imperfection.
Whenever I have ordered POR-15 it has been here in less then 3 days.
I did mine about 2 years ago and I live near the beach. It still looks as good as the day I did it and everything wipes off. At least use a Satin finish regardless of what you use as it is easier to wipe dirt of, gloss is even easier but tends to get runs in it and show every little imperfection.
Whenever I have ordered POR-15 it has been here in less then 3 days.
#6
Safety Car
My last experience with Eastwood paint was the aerosol chassis black. It would come out in clumps regardless of how much I shook it. That will be the last time I buy Eastwood paint.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jdmick
My last experience with Eastwood paint was the aerosol chassis black. It would come out in clumps regardless of how much I shook it. That will be the last time I buy Eastwood paint.
The back cover page of their newest catalog advertises extream chassis black at $19.99/15oz. aerosol can...
#8
Melting Slicks
If you are going through all the trouble to detail the suspension may I be permitted to make some suggestions based on my experiance.
Love the way Krylon goes on but it is basicallly lacquer and any kind of brake fluid, solvent or road tar will eat the paint if not removed quickly.
The rustoleum enamel will be more durable in the long run.
If you are going through all the trouble to detail the suspension I highly recomend the POR15 products. If you thin and spray the product and then apply their Por15 primer and chassis black you will have a rock hard durable finish that closely resembles the semi-gloss original finish. It is more work this time but you will never have to do it again. All of the catalog houses also have good paint to closely resemble the original finish. Por15 also has top coats to closely resemble the bare metal finish where required and a clear for those parts that may have been blead blasted so that the original castings appear just as the should or at least close.
The krylon finishes are great in the interior but tend to break down when used on the outside of the car.
Just my 2 cents! Hope it helps.
Bill
Love the way Krylon goes on but it is basicallly lacquer and any kind of brake fluid, solvent or road tar will eat the paint if not removed quickly.
The rustoleum enamel will be more durable in the long run.
If you are going through all the trouble to detail the suspension I highly recomend the POR15 products. If you thin and spray the product and then apply their Por15 primer and chassis black you will have a rock hard durable finish that closely resembles the semi-gloss original finish. It is more work this time but you will never have to do it again. All of the catalog houses also have good paint to closely resemble the original finish. Por15 also has top coats to closely resemble the bare metal finish where required and a clear for those parts that may have been blead blasted so that the original castings appear just as the should or at least close.
The krylon finishes are great in the interior but tend to break down when used on the outside of the car.
Just my 2 cents! Hope it helps.
Bill
#9
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by jdmick
My last experience with Eastwood paint was the aerosol chassis black. It would come out in clumps regardless of how much I shook it. That will be the last time I buy Eastwood paint.
Now, Eastwood's "Detail Gray" is a completely different story: it's beautiful, very easy to shoot, almost impossible to get runs. It's the best spray paint I know... (Krylon semi-flat black and VHT engine paint are close seconds.)
-Pedro