bobs77vet

well since half of me is in C3 land and the other half is in street rod land i am constantly looking in street rod magazines for trick stuff....i found this add to today..."heavy duty Linear actuators"...i would think these are what we need to make our headlights electrically operated


www.autoloc.com

heres the link

http://www.thehoffmangroup.com:16080...ducts_LA.lasso

JustForFun

WHAT ABOUT THESE? http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0408vet_c3lites/

kona

Truthfully with alittle work you can keep the old C3 headlight system working just fine. I have a late model Firebird that use the same actuators that they used in the article and they are not totally trouble free either.
Guess it's just a matter of personal preference.

Kona

ratflinger

bobs77vet,

I looked at the actuators & then studied my car (right now the hood is off). I think this could work w/o the modifications necessary for the McSpeed kit. This could be removed & the system returned to stock. I would think that the LA2 would work. Since it would require 2 pivots the LA2 should be adjustable enough to provide enough throw. One actuator should work, mounted low right behind the license plate frame member. A simple threaded rod could be used between the frame supports for the base mount. A pivot would replace the vacuum actuator & a rod would extend to the other pivot actuator. This would have to be a variable angle rod to clear the hood. A piviot would connect the actuator to the cross rod, or it might direct mount. Varing the pivot mount points would enable you to change the final throw. All the other linkage would stay the same so you would still have adjustablity for final open/close positioning. The switch would be the drawback. I am not familiar with the the Firebird switch so I don't know how it signals the headlight motors to open or close, but you could always just use a manual switch. It's something to think about, couple hundred bucks & some fab time is all it would take.

69Myway

Linear actuators are awesome. I have played with a variety of styles and types. You can see more at www.uslinear.com

In fact, I connected one to the turbo 400 shift linkage on our 23 T-bucket and hooked that to a power window switch on the dash saftey wired through the brake switch and made a "push button" shifter. These things can be used to open and close doors, etc.

I used a 2" throw actuator to operate my 69 Vette wiper door in place of the old vacuum.

This point has been brought up before. The problem with the linear system is you can not do a manual over ride in the event of a failure. The other problem is the length. The housings are too long to mount one in place of the vacuum diaphram. It would run into the radiator. The other option is to mount it vertical pushing up from the bottom. The problem there is the articulation is wrong.

The Porsche 924 uses a single actuator to operate a bar that flips both lights. It is very efficient and simple. However, it requires a fairly free open space direct across from each light and a lighter weight light system.

I am looking at using a linear actuator right now to operate a push button start where the keyless entry option triggers the linear actuator to push the column switch ON, then I can put a Honda S-2000 Start Engine button in place of my ignition key hole.

The best way to know for sure is to buy a couple of actuators and start mocking something up.

1982CorvetteDude

I may look into that

ratflinger

69Myway,

Valid points, but this is why I suggested pivot point mounts. I think I'll order one & try it out. Between this & a hydraboost I could eliminate almost all the vacuum needs.

garandfan

SPAL makes the ones you will need. You can get them on ebay for about 100.00 or less each. You will need to modify the travel of the actuator. You will also need to fill the ram with alum stock to strengthen the ram since it will need to be notched to adapt it to the current raising mechanism for the head lights. I did this two years ago. posted it here. but here are some photos:

If you want some advice on how and what will need done, I'll be happy to help. BTW my car has been gutted of ALL vacuum lines and rewired through out.

Frank

1982CorvetteDude

I like the actuator idea but it seems like you could the same thing by fabbing some sort of bracket and use 82-82 Firebird Motors instead of 93-97.....it would be a lot cheaper.

I looked at Mscpeeds kit, all you would need to make are some brackets and if you had access to a sheetmetal brake then it would be a piece of cake.

garandfan

I looked into and did mock ups of the single actuator and rod method when I was reworking mine. I purchased the rod, the actuator, and did the measurements necessary to make the proper pull and throw to get the lights up and down. I found out that this was not feasible due to the upright needed to support the front of the car. There were far to many interference issues to overcome. Thats why I opted to shorter actuators operating each light. These are timed and both lights open and close at the same time. One nice thing about this system is the you can "wink" the headlights during there travel, or turn them on while they remain down.

garandfan

I have to disagree with this, they do fit and work just fine. The override is to pull the cotter key & pin, and allow the original headlight springs to take it open.

ratflinger

garandfan,

I am very interested in your mod. I did a quick search, but didn't find your older post. As far as the single actuator I suggested, could one not offset the actuator to one side of the support post? I appreciate your previous experience. Do you have A/C? I would need to clear my evaporator also.

garandfan

No ac. I mocked up about 4-5 diferent single set ups using just cheap threaded round stock. I supose you could do the single route with a set back unit with a couple 90 bends in it. What I tried to do was a low mount 10" throw actuator, with a short shaft welded to the rod at the center pivot point, with longer throw rods at the headlight center pivot point. Every way I looked at it, I had clearance issues. Thats when I scraped the single system and went with two actuators.

The price to do this is equal to McSpeeds electric set up. so it's a close call on what way to do it. I like my way as it is different. but the other way is neat to. Each to his own, and 6 of one, half dozen of another!! :-)

69Myway

All the linear actuators I have used move fairly slow. How fast/slow do your lights lift?

69Myway

Actually, gmpartsdirect has the price of a new actuators at $149.99 for the 93-97 Firebird. Plus, there are thousands of these in the bone yard as cheap as $5 each. The housings are also plastic and super light weight (compared to the 3rd gen firebird). Several aftermarket guys now make metal gears for upgrading them (or for repairing a set you might score for free since most failures (just like the C4 & C5 are the lower plastic gears stripping). Also, the late C5 used the EXACT same actuator only they reversed them right to left on the part number and they have a shorter main arm. That is easily fixed by flipping them right to left and welding a 5/16" stud rod to the arm.

Some guys get really lucky and pick up all the parts used and save major bucks.

The 3rd gen firebird base mounting circle is too large to clear on an a/c car. I think garandfan has no a/c on his car so that gives more room for the linear actuators too. You would be surprised what that extra 2" will do once the condenser is removed (or if it was never there on a non-air car).

I'm Batman

It's OT, but I'm curious how you got rid of the vacuum controls to the HVAC.

garandfan

easy heater delete!!

69Myway

Easy. I am running a vintage air gen II compact unit that does not use vacuum to operate the doors. Plus, I got to shave my firewall smooth.

I'm Batman

Ouch, too pricey for me. I just want an electric actuator for the old system. I'm surprised someone hasn't invented one yet.

bobs77vet

i don't see why the ones i mentioned won't work...they come in different lenghts ,are adjustaqble and have only one mounting spot that will allow it to swivel