Radiator support removal and replacement
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Radiator support removal and replacement
What is process for removal and reinstallation of radiator support from 75? Found some rust in radiator and shroud R&R
It seems like for removal:
hood off
3 bolts each side in wheel well
Correct? Anything I should be careful of?
For installation should I assemble the support, radiator, and shroud together and install as a unit or just reinstall the support and fight with the radiator/shroud installation?
It seems like for removal:
hood off
3 bolts each side in wheel well
Correct? Anything I should be careful of?
For installation should I assemble the support, radiator, and shroud together and install as a unit or just reinstall the support and fight with the radiator/shroud installation?
#2
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by vettecrazy88
What is process for removal and reinstallation of radiator support from 75? Found some rust in radiator and shroud R&R
It seems like for removal:
hood off
3 bolts each side in wheel well
Correct? Anything I should be careful of?
For installation should I assemble the support, radiator, and shroud together and install as a unit or just reinstall the support and fight with the radiator/shroud installation?
It seems like for removal:
hood off
3 bolts each side in wheel well
Correct? Anything I should be careful of?
For installation should I assemble the support, radiator, and shroud together and install as a unit or just reinstall the support and fight with the radiator/shroud installation?
You'll find it MUCH easier to assemble the support/radiator/shroud on your work bench and then simply drop them in as a unit.
Biggest benefit for me was on the bench your back doesn't hurt from leaning into the engine compartment which prevents the temptation of "good enough" when installing new seals. You install them, check them, and reinstall the seals/shroud until it's perfect.
You're also correct on the removal...there are 3 bolts per side and should be one at the bottom-center if your 75 is like my 71.
I set mine in alone so I put rags etc on the waterpump snout which allowed me to rest the assembly and protect the radiator until I had the first bolt in to hold it in place.
And so you don't feel alone
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; 04-09-2006 at 10:54 AM.
#3
When you get the rust repaired, spray some rust preventive into the inside of the support through the bolt holes. This will coat the inside lower half of the support and prevent rust coming through again. I also used POR15 paint and it really is good stuff both for corrosive and chipping protection.
Hardest part I found was getting the auto trans cooler lines on after I reinstalled. Hope yours is a manual
Hardest part I found was getting the auto trans cooler lines on after I reinstalled. Hope yours is a manual
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks Hammerhead Fred. The other thread was comforting but also brought a little fear that removing and replacing support was difficult at best. Any tricks or cautions?
#6
Melting Slicks
It's not that bad, did my 79 last summer. Figure on breaking a few bolts, and yeah my trans cooler lines were the hardest part, they twisted off the lines (of course) but I replaced them and added a cooler in front of the rad (much easier).
Oh, I also took the opportunity "while I was at it" to spend two months and many hundreds of dollars removing and detailing pretty much the whole car from the firewall-forward....
Oh, I also took the opportunity "while I was at it" to spend two months and many hundreds of dollars removing and detailing pretty much the whole car from the firewall-forward....
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
1 minor glitch. Shroud is not lining up good enough with fan centerline. Any suggestions? Should I open slots for bolts in shroud or are there other adjustments at radiator support that I should try first?
Summary of what I learned so far. . .
This is a 2 man job.
Taking hood off and removing radiator support, installing new radiator and shroud on the support, and reinstalling support/radiator/shroud as a unit is definitely the way to go for my 75 radiator/shroud replacement. Overall, easier out and easier in. Seal installation is cake this way too.
PB Blaster every thread you can access. Only broke nose support rod at threads ($13).
Use new radiator support cushions. Even if old are in decent shape.
I hate working on these cars 'til I'm done with that particular job. Then its all worth it.
Summary of what I learned so far. . .
This is a 2 man job.
Taking hood off and removing radiator support, installing new radiator and shroud on the support, and reinstalling support/radiator/shroud as a unit is definitely the way to go for my 75 radiator/shroud replacement. Overall, easier out and easier in. Seal installation is cake this way too.
PB Blaster every thread you can access. Only broke nose support rod at threads ($13).
Use new radiator support cushions. Even if old are in decent shape.
I hate working on these cars 'til I'm done with that particular job. Then its all worth it.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
I can get minimal vertical movement if I loosen the 3 support bolts in the respective wheel wells and the two bracket bolts under the car. I don't see any related to front clip.
Thanks for takin a look Yellow 73SB
Thanks for takin a look Yellow 73SB
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2004
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St. Jude Donor '07
I was just wondering becuase I have to drop one fender down 1 inch. Dyou think that is possible by adjust the radiator support.
You should check your fender heights.
You should check your fender heights.
#11
Le Mans Master
73 is a bit different but similar to 75.
There are 2 big bolts at the bottom of the support that connect
2 L brackets to the big tube in the front of 75 ... forget if tube is in 73.
You might be able to loosen these and tweak a bit.
However, I think you will really need to loosen the frame horn to
tube bolts (3 each side) and the bumper support bolts and maybe even
the bumper impact bar bolts (under cover) to get any significant movement.
I may revisit this myself, as my whole front end is a bit too low after
installing the body. It looks good and low, but the front of the hood
doesn't quite match up to the surround.
There are 2 big bolts at the bottom of the support that connect
2 L brackets to the big tube in the front of 75 ... forget if tube is in 73.
You might be able to loosen these and tweak a bit.
However, I think you will really need to loosen the frame horn to
tube bolts (3 each side) and the bumper support bolts and maybe even
the bumper impact bar bolts (under cover) to get any significant movement.
I may revisit this myself, as my whole front end is a bit too low after
installing the body. It looks good and low, but the front of the hood
doesn't quite match up to the surround.
#13
Le Mans Master
Also, fender height differences are more likely to be spring issues.
To be sure, check the suspension heights (governed by springs), per
the dimensions in your particular AIM. They show measurements like
ground to lower control arm bushing bolt and ground to ball joint/tie rod end.
To be sure, check the suspension heights (governed by springs), per
the dimensions in your particular AIM. They show measurements like
ground to lower control arm bushing bolt and ground to ball joint/tie rod end.
#14
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by NHvette
Also, fender height differences are more likely to be spring issues.
To be sure, check the suspension heights (governed by springs), per
the dimensions in your particular AIM. They show measurements like
ground to lower control arm bushing bolt and ground to ball joint/tie rod end.
To be sure, check the suspension heights (governed by springs), per
the dimensions in your particular AIM. They show measurements like
ground to lower control arm bushing bolt and ground to ball joint/tie rod end.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Fast approaching stuff thats over my head. If I loosen the the frame horn to tube bolts, the bumper support bolts and the bumper impact bar bolts will I have to realign either the body, the wheels or both?
Thanks for all the help and info.
Thanks for all the help and info.
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
To align shroud it helped to do the following:
With all wheel well bolts loosened nose support rod out. and all 4 L-bracket bolts loose (bottom of support) I used a floor jack to optimize the location of the radiator support assembly (with shroud and radiator installed). Once located, tightened L-bracket bolts, and wheel well bolts (I had to readjust support once after first tightening). Then adjusted shroud to final location and tightenend shroud bolts.
Thanks to all for the help and advice through this joyous job. Can't wait to drive it tomorrow.
Happy Easter.
With all wheel well bolts loosened nose support rod out. and all 4 L-bracket bolts loose (bottom of support) I used a floor jack to optimize the location of the radiator support assembly (with shroud and radiator installed). Once located, tightened L-bracket bolts, and wheel well bolts (I had to readjust support once after first tightening). Then adjusted shroud to final location and tightenend shroud bolts.
Thanks to all for the help and advice through this joyous job. Can't wait to drive it tomorrow.
Happy Easter.