cgc

Armed with CF and DC knowledge I tryed again to remove the T/A. Cutting seemed to be my only option. After 1 1/2 hrs ( includes rest breaks)and 3 Milwaukee saw blades later the dang T/A bolt was history. I laid the blade between the shims and just hung on. It was a PITA but after the T/A was out who cares. Thanks so much guys.

onaqwst

just wait until you take that cross member out that holds the diff.......

be there and done that....

keep pushing along


b

cgc

OK I'll hijack my thread. Whats the scoop on this cross member?

hicswa

Soak it good with WD 40 for a few days and than it should release.

onaqwst

use PB blaster instead of wd40....

if you plan on replacing the bushing.... just take a propane torch and heat up the bushing after the few days you pb blasted it........ then it should drop out......

if i remember right theres a num on the frame that the bushing slips over...once you have the cneter bolt out, you'll have to fight the bushing/rust thats creating the friction thats holding the bushing

b

hicswa

Never try PB blaster. In fact that's the first time I heard of it. I looked it up on the internet and your right, it does have better features than Wd 40 . Thanks I going to get a can for the next time. And your also right about heating. The way that frame looks it going to need new bushing anyway.

Dan

Gumbo

I usually try to keep all the hype about "magic" sprays, cleaners, and lubes at arm's length, but in this case, PB Blaster does work very well as a penetrant. Heck, it even *smells* bad. No penetrant or cleaner is worth a @#$% unless is smells bad and/or burns your skin

onaqwst

local hardware/auto store




b

cgc

Thanks so much for all your help. I am planing to change the bushings. I will have to get a new can of PB Plaster. My can of PB plaster is almost empty. Good stuff . The frame is in very good shape. It is mostly surface rust. I don't know why the pics came out so redish.

charlie

chris73cpe

The trick for the diff crossmember is after you take out the bolts holding it up, put them back in a couple of threads. Then you can use a gear puller between the crossmember and the bolt to pop it loose. The bolt also keeps it from falling to the floor when it does come loose.

I'm Batman

Unscrew the crossmember bolts about halfway, then stick a big two-jaw or three-jaw gear puller on it. It'll let go pretty fast.

I'm Batman

No, I'm someone who's torn the entire rear suspension out of a C3. One side of my crossmember wouldn't release except with a three-jaw puller. Using that tool, it popped loose very quickly.

onaqwst

i used a big azz pipe and was able to get some good leverage when i did mine......black gas pipe works the best


b

vettesbydesign

Me too...or...I put a 4x4 section on there BAH one side at a time...drops right out.

L82shark

I used a crowbar and came at it from the sides. Popped right out. Agree with remembering to put the bolts back in for a couple of threads, otherwise your diff will hit the floor.

WD40 sux, PB Blaster is ok, best stuff I have found is Moovit, I was in awe of it!

cgc

I want to thank each of you who offered help. I used L82 shark's suggestion and tryed the pry bar first and it worked. The crossmember came right out. If the crossmember had really been stuck I was going for the pullers. The rubber looked new no cracks, could still read the part number. Should I still replace it?

charlie