03-06-2015, 02:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General How-Tos
- So You Want to Buy a Corvette?
Important information to help you understand your Corvette.
Browse all: General How-Tos
Please Review: Ten Rules For Buying Your First C3 Corvette
08-02-2014, 08:59 PM
#102
Advanced
I readmthis thread in it's entirety prior to going shopping for my first c3.
I followed the rules (guidelines
) aa best I could. I even brought along a dissinterested third party...
All told I did end up buying the first vette that I went to see but only after shopping around to see others first before coming back to it.
Everything in the thread was valuable and helpfull even feeling inside the wheel wells for past damage.
Thanks for providing such a great thread to help the happless in their journey!
John L>
I followed the rules (guidelines
) aa best I could. I even brought along a dissinterested third party...All told I did end up buying the first vette that I went to see but only after shopping around to see others first before coming back to it.
Everything in the thread was valuable and helpfull even feeling inside the wheel wells for past damage.
Thanks for providing such a great thread to help the happless in their journey!
John L>
09-21-2014, 05:58 AM
#103
8th Gear
Member Since: Sep 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Two things I learned on mine (not critical for me since I bought it planning to rebuild it), check the brake and fuel lines. If they are rusted, they are very difficult to replace on a C3. You pretty much have to remove the body to replace them.
As far as the birdcage goes, look at the windshield line closely from the front, then check the door glass lines compared to the body. One thing I had never noticed on mine until we started doing the body work was that the birdcage had been pulled in about an inch on the drivers side. One day we were looking at the car from the front and something just didn't look right. The birdcage was solid, but the windshield post definitely sat lower on one side than the other. By putting the door glass back in we were able to see that the windshield post had been pulled back and didn't match the lines of the glass (can't believe I never noticed it before). Then the task of pulling it back up and measuring to getting it right. The only thing I can figure is the previous owner must have grabbed the post to pull himself up when exiting the car and over time is just moved.
One thing I've found with C3s, the "little things" on these cars can quickly turn into "what the hell do I do now?".
As far as the birdcage goes, look at the windshield line closely from the front, then check the door glass lines compared to the body. One thing I had never noticed on mine until we started doing the body work was that the birdcage had been pulled in about an inch on the drivers side. One day we were looking at the car from the front and something just didn't look right. The birdcage was solid, but the windshield post definitely sat lower on one side than the other. By putting the door glass back in we were able to see that the windshield post had been pulled back and didn't match the lines of the glass (can't believe I never noticed it before). Then the task of pulling it back up and measuring to getting it right. The only thing I can figure is the previous owner must have grabbed the post to pull himself up when exiting the car and over time is just moved.
One thing I've found with C3s, the "little things" on these cars can quickly turn into "what the hell do I do now?".
11-12-2014, 12:19 AM
#104
6th Gear
Member Since: Nov 2014
Location: Roanoke Indiana
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh Well!
I just purchased a 1975 corvette. I actually found some of the items on my inspection but there were several I missed. Nice checklist. My 75 is in pretty good shape but I did replace the suspension as it was the original and pretty non existent. Looking at trying to get more HP from the 169 hp motor that is in it. Any suggestions?
11-12-2014, 07:17 AM
#105
8th Gear
Member Since: Sep 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just purchased a 1975 corvette. I actually found some of the items on my inspection but there were several I missed. Nice checklist. My 75 is in pretty good shape but I did replace the suspension as it was the original and pretty non existent. Looking at trying to get more HP from the 169 hp motor that is in it. Any suggestions?
03-05-2015, 04:29 PM
#107
Thanks
Please review my list. Feel free to leave comments and suggestions for improvment or addition.
Ten Rules for Buying Your First C3 Corvette
Awesome info for the new guy.
Thanks
RULE #1
Before you even think about buying a C3 Corvette, you must know two VERY important facts:
Do not expect just because you spent $50,000 on a vette that you will never have to put more money into it. Remember, the newest C3 Corvettes are still 26 years old. If you can accept the fact you will have to put additional money into your Corvette, continue reading.
RULE #2
Decide what kind of C3 Corvette you want before you buy your first one. If you don’t, you will always wish you had bought ‘that chrome bumper car’ or ‘that ’75 vert’ you always wanted. Decide which year Corvette speaks to you.
Here are some general examples:
RULE #3
Before you buy your first C3 Corvette, you need to know your personal mechanical abilities. Are you a complete novice when it comes to turning wrenches? Do you have a mentor or teacher that can teach you skills if you can’t afford to have other people work on the car for you? It would be wise to purchase a C3 corvette that falls within your mechanical ability to restore. Many people buy a car, and then find out they are in over their head to complete their project. For example:
Buy a car that is what you want. i.e.
-Buy a show car if you want a show car.
-Buy a car someone drives every day if you want something to drive.
-Buy a project if you want something to work on.
RULE #4
Know your financial ability to pay for a car, and your financial ability to put money into the car on a monthly basis. How much can you spend on the car per month? Also are you able to put money into the car if something drastic goes wrong? It’s always a sad thing to see a project Corvette sit in the garage because the owner ran out of money to put into it. Of course some of these situations are unavoidable, but wouldn’t you want to avoid it if you could?
RULE #5
When you find a potential project Corvette, there are a few main condition related items that your car should have if it is to be considered for purchase. Your car should ALWAYS have a solid frame, birdcage, and suspension. First let’s talk about the birdcage.
Birdcage:
Here is a picture of the Birdcage removed from a C3.
In simple terms it is the metal frame that surrounds the cockpit area of your C3. It is vital that you have a solid birdcage because it supports a lot of your car. An easy way to check the condition of the birdcage is to remove the kick panels near your feet.
Here are some pictures of how the mounts SHOULD NOT look like:
If you find a Corvette with body mounts looking like this, RUN. They are a pain and expensive to fix, and there is always cars out there with sound birdcages for sale.
A second area of rust that you can find on the birdcage is around the windshield. These areas can be accessed by removing the chrome trim and weather stripping around the outside of the windshield.
Here are some pictures of what your windshield frame SHOULD NOT look like:
A simple test to see if the birdcage has rust around the windshield frame is to place a white towel in the foot wells of the car and **** the doors a few times. If there is major rust it will have fallen onto the towel and you will be able to see it.
Frame:
Another important area to check for rust is the metal frame that makes up the support for everything on your car. Find a car with a solid, rot free frame. This means less money and headache to restore the car. It can be very costly to repair or even replace a rusty frame.
Here are some pictures of what your frame SHOULD NOT look like:
A good technique to determine if the car you are looking at has a good solid frame is to take a coin like a quarter and give the frame a few good taps with it wherever you can reach. When you hit the frame, hear a metallic sound, and only put tiny nicks in the metal, than your frame is good. If you can gouge deep in the frame and/or poke holes into it, than the frame is not what you want. You can also put your fingers into the "eyelet" holes long the frame and feel inside for rust ans scale. The same technique can be applied to later model cars that have metal floors in them.
Suspension:
Since C3 Corvettes are so old, the suspension should almost always be overhauled as a safety measure unless you can verify it has been done recently. Get a reliable mechanic to check it out if you can. As a general rule to the suspension AVOID suspension that looks like this:
RULE #6
Before buying your first C3 Corvette, another important area to look closely at is the condition of the fiberglass body. It can avoid you headaches in the future if you can find a body that has not had the chance to be poorly repaired by bubba. Tricks to seeing if you have a fiberglass body in good condition is to move your fingers around the inside lip of each wheel well. They should be smooth with no cracks. You can also look at the condition of the inside of the wheel wells. Also, check for cracks where to body mounts to the frame in the wheel wells.
Body mounts SHOULD NOT look like this:
Also avoid cars that have large damaged areas on them. Yes, they could be easy to repair, but you never know what kind of botched past repairs lurk underneath the paint, especially if the car clearly shows it’s been neglected.
RULE #7
When searching for a car, try to avoid cars that have been left outside or in a field for a long time (especially if you live in the colder climates). Cars outside deteriorate very very quickly, plus 99% of C3s leak. Also avoid cars with windows that have been left open for extended periods of time. This will ruin any chances of usable interior parts, or and hope of a solid floor.
RULE #8
Familiarize yourself with the different options and small changes that occurred to C3 Corvettes over the years. It will increase your ability to determine what is stock or not, what has been replaced or not, and what has been “bubba’d” or not. A quick way to tell if bubba has visited your C3 is by looking at the engine compartment. Lots of vacuum plugs? Twist ties? Crusted on oil? I think its so simple to just pop the hood, and can pretty much gauge the "bubba"ness from what that compartment looks like.
DO NOT buy a car if it looks like this:
RULE #9
Write down the VIN number and also the trim tag information to determine some of the options the car came with, such as interior color, exterior color, and engine information. It is also a good idea to bring a Black Book with you to check the correctness of the VIN, trin tag vs colors and engine data. Also, compare the numbers on the block to the VIN to determine if the engine came with the car or not. This might be a deal breaker to some, but might be what some others want. Also, try your hardest to bring someone who knows vettes, especially C3s, and can be your second set of eyes while you look at the car.
RULE #10
After looking at the car you are contemplating about purchasing, make a list of items you think will need replacement. Take a look at catalogs and corvette supplier’s websites at prices for these items. This can give you an idea of what certain repairs will cost you. Also, after you go and look at the car, post real detailed pictures of what you saw so we can tell you if you should buy it or run away.
***If I used a picture that you as a forum member has taken personally, and would not like it shown on this guide, please let me know and I will gladly take it off.***
***The pictures that I used are worse case scenario pictures***
Ten Rules for Buying Your First C3 Corvette
Awesome info for the new guy.
Thanks
RULE #1
Before you even think about buying a C3 Corvette, you must know two VERY important facts:
1.No matter what condition of car you buy, no matter the amount of money you spend, your car WILL eventually need work.
2. NEVER NEVER buy a Corvette with out looking at it in person. EVER! If you must (like if you live overseas) only buy a car that you have recived sufficient picture documentation of the problem areas listed below. If you dont have positive proof, stay away
Do not expect just because you spent $50,000 on a vette that you will never have to put more money into it. Remember, the newest C3 Corvettes are still 26 years old. If you can accept the fact you will have to put additional money into your Corvette, continue reading.
RULE #2
Decide what kind of C3 Corvette you want before you buy your first one. If you don’t, you will always wish you had bought ‘that chrome bumper car’ or ‘that ’75 vert’ you always wanted. Decide which year Corvette speaks to you.
Here are some general examples:
Chrome bumper VS Rubber Bumper
All Original VS Custom
Big Block VS Small Block
Coupe VS Convertible
Automatic Transmission VS Manual Transmission
Flat Rear Glass VS Bubble Rear Glass
All Original VS Custom
Big Block VS Small Block
Coupe VS Convertible
Automatic Transmission VS Manual Transmission
Flat Rear Glass VS Bubble Rear Glass
RULE #3
Before you buy your first C3 Corvette, you need to know your personal mechanical abilities. Are you a complete novice when it comes to turning wrenches? Do you have a mentor or teacher that can teach you skills if you can’t afford to have other people work on the car for you? It would be wise to purchase a C3 corvette that falls within your mechanical ability to restore. Many people buy a car, and then find out they are in over their head to complete their project. For example:
Buy a car that is what you want. i.e.
-Buy a show car if you want a show car.
-Buy a car someone drives every day if you want something to drive.
-Buy a project if you want something to work on.
RULE #4
Know your financial ability to pay for a car, and your financial ability to put money into the car on a monthly basis. How much can you spend on the car per month? Also are you able to put money into the car if something drastic goes wrong? It’s always a sad thing to see a project Corvette sit in the garage because the owner ran out of money to put into it. Of course some of these situations are unavoidable, but wouldn’t you want to avoid it if you could?
RULE #5
When you find a potential project Corvette, there are a few main condition related items that your car should have if it is to be considered for purchase. Your car should ALWAYS have a solid frame, birdcage, and suspension. First let’s talk about the birdcage.
Birdcage:
Here is a picture of the Birdcage removed from a C3.
In simple terms it is the metal frame that surrounds the cockpit area of your C3. It is vital that you have a solid birdcage because it supports a lot of your car. An easy way to check the condition of the birdcage is to remove the kick panels near your feet.
Here are some pictures of how the mounts SHOULD NOT look like:
If you find a Corvette with body mounts looking like this, RUN. They are a pain and expensive to fix, and there is always cars out there with sound birdcages for sale.
A second area of rust that you can find on the birdcage is around the windshield. These areas can be accessed by removing the chrome trim and weather stripping around the outside of the windshield.
Here are some pictures of what your windshield frame SHOULD NOT look like:
A simple test to see if the birdcage has rust around the windshield frame is to place a white towel in the foot wells of the car and **** the doors a few times. If there is major rust it will have fallen onto the towel and you will be able to see it.
Frame:
Another important area to check for rust is the metal frame that makes up the support for everything on your car. Find a car with a solid, rot free frame. This means less money and headache to restore the car. It can be very costly to repair or even replace a rusty frame.
Here are some pictures of what your frame SHOULD NOT look like:
A good technique to determine if the car you are looking at has a good solid frame is to take a coin like a quarter and give the frame a few good taps with it wherever you can reach. When you hit the frame, hear a metallic sound, and only put tiny nicks in the metal, than your frame is good. If you can gouge deep in the frame and/or poke holes into it, than the frame is not what you want. You can also put your fingers into the "eyelet" holes long the frame and feel inside for rust ans scale. The same technique can be applied to later model cars that have metal floors in them.
Suspension:
Since C3 Corvettes are so old, the suspension should almost always be overhauled as a safety measure unless you can verify it has been done recently. Get a reliable mechanic to check it out if you can. As a general rule to the suspension AVOID suspension that looks like this:
RULE #6
Before buying your first C3 Corvette, another important area to look closely at is the condition of the fiberglass body. It can avoid you headaches in the future if you can find a body that has not had the chance to be poorly repaired by bubba. Tricks to seeing if you have a fiberglass body in good condition is to move your fingers around the inside lip of each wheel well. They should be smooth with no cracks. You can also look at the condition of the inside of the wheel wells. Also, check for cracks where to body mounts to the frame in the wheel wells.
Body mounts SHOULD NOT look like this:
Also avoid cars that have large damaged areas on them. Yes, they could be easy to repair, but you never know what kind of botched past repairs lurk underneath the paint, especially if the car clearly shows it’s been neglected.
RULE #7
When searching for a car, try to avoid cars that have been left outside or in a field for a long time (especially if you live in the colder climates). Cars outside deteriorate very very quickly, plus 99% of C3s leak. Also avoid cars with windows that have been left open for extended periods of time. This will ruin any chances of usable interior parts, or and hope of a solid floor.
RULE #8
Familiarize yourself with the different options and small changes that occurred to C3 Corvettes over the years. It will increase your ability to determine what is stock or not, what has been replaced or not, and what has been “bubba’d” or not. A quick way to tell if bubba has visited your C3 is by looking at the engine compartment. Lots of vacuum plugs? Twist ties? Crusted on oil? I think its so simple to just pop the hood, and can pretty much gauge the "bubba"ness from what that compartment looks like.
DO NOT buy a car if it looks like this:
RULE #9
Write down the VIN number and also the trim tag information to determine some of the options the car came with, such as interior color, exterior color, and engine information. It is also a good idea to bring a Black Book with you to check the correctness of the VIN, trin tag vs colors and engine data. Also, compare the numbers on the block to the VIN to determine if the engine came with the car or not. This might be a deal breaker to some, but might be what some others want. Also, try your hardest to bring someone who knows vettes, especially C3s, and can be your second set of eyes while you look at the car.
RULE #10
After looking at the car you are contemplating about purchasing, make a list of items you think will need replacement. Take a look at catalogs and corvette supplier’s websites at prices for these items. This can give you an idea of what certain repairs will cost you. Also, after you go and look at the car, post real detailed pictures of what you saw so we can tell you if you should buy it or run away.
***If I used a picture that you as a forum member has taken personally, and would not like it shown on this guide, please let me know and I will gladly take it off.***
***The pictures that I used are worse case scenario pictures***
The following 3 users liked this post by aiming:
04-15-2015, 09:09 PM
#108
Race Director
...on #9, one thing that could be added is make very, very sure that VIN# on the car is the same one that is on the title, original bill of sale, original dealer paper & or protecto plate if it came with one. Been more than a few horror stories out there where the title that was "supposed" to be a Corvette title was just a "Chevrolet" from a junked car & the Corvette was a stolen car.
Great list, great info.
Great list, great info.
04-19-2015, 05:57 PM
#109
Racer
Good stuff in here but I also soiled my shorts!
06-06-2015, 07:25 PM
#110
8th Gear
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel CA
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eye opening!
Excellent thread.
As someone who is dying to buy a 1979 or '80 Corvette, and now, having read the thread, planning for the future, which vendor is the best one for replacement parts? Eckler's?
I went onto Duntov.com and found the site interesting, but a recommendation would be greatly appreciated.
As someone who is dying to buy a 1979 or '80 Corvette, and now, having read the thread, planning for the future, which vendor is the best one for replacement parts? Eckler's?
I went onto Duntov.com and found the site interesting, but a recommendation would be greatly appreciated.
06-09-2015, 06:55 PM
#111
* New C3 Buyer Requests Expert Advice *
NEW BUYER HERE...
I have watched your youtube video "How to buy a C3 Corvette" at least four times in the past three months. I have Richard Prince’s “Corvette C3 Buyer's Guide 1968-1982” on-order and should be arriving any day now.
Since childhood, I have been enchanted by C3 Corvettes and have been trying to learn everything that I can before buying a C3.
I have every single Corvette sales brochure from 1968-1982 as well as the Corvette black book, and have most of the horsepower and available options memorized by year.
I have about $20,000.00 - $30,000.00 to spend in my budget to make payments on a nice (Class 3 in "Sunday driver" condition) 1970-1972 Corvette coupe for my third car. I am considering either Lightstream and Woodside to finance the C3 purchase.
1) What can I expect to get in this price-range?
The common theme that I hear is to buy as much Corvette as you can, because of a fixer-up-er is always more costly in the long run. I know this firsthand – I restored a vintage 1963 Ski Nautique from a fiberglass shell, did most of the gelcoat work myself, and it took me 10 years and $15,000.00. I am not doing any more restorations and instead I am just buying this time around.
Want to purchase a C3 that is:
----------------------------------
Chrome bumper
Flat Rear Glass
Original
Big Block if I can afford
Couple
Either Automatic or Manual Transmission
Therefore, a 1970-1972 (with the egg-crate side louvers).
Whatever C3 I buy, the car needs to be exceptional and “needs nothing”. I plan to drive the car extremely-carefully on specific well-maintained roads that have little traffic. So the car will be a NICE driver, but not a trailer queen either.
2) At what point does a person spend so much on a car, that they are afraid to drive it, perseverating-upon every rock chip?
Certainly these thresholds are different for everyone. I want something very nice that I can drive, but do not want to spend so much that I over-buy and end up with a car that really should be a trailer queen (a Bloomington Gold or Top Flight is likely clearly out of my budget).
But I do not want to drive a beater or rust-bucket either. What range should I consider spending to stay within the “nice Sunday & fair-weather driver” category?
3) I love the look of the 1970-1972 C3s both inside and out, but have never actually ridden in one (let alone driven one either). My Dad has a 1980 Corvette and I have ridden in and driven the car several times. How similar will the ride be for a 1970-1972?
I am not expecting a Cadillac ride, but want to know if the car will ride like *****’s Jeep or more like my Dad’s 1980 Corvette.
4) Regarding buying a C3: You state to do a complete pre-purchase mechanical and structural inspection before buying a Corvette. I agree.
Yet I do not see bidders at the Mecum or Barrett-Jackson auctions up on stage looking over these car in-advance either?
Any many of these are actually in my price range (except for an L88 or ZR1 of course).
So why is this an exception, especially if they are paying considerably more for these cars? What assurances do they have? Are all these cars certified in-advance?
5) Yet I am looking for a nice car to carefully enjoy. I am not an investor, collector and am not out to be in the business. How important are matching numbers versus NOM?
6) Where are the best deals to be found? eBay? Craigslist? Dealers? Car shows? Mecum? Barrett-Jackson?
I am fairly mechanically-savvy, but far from being a professional, so I am not intimidated by owning an older car. My boat is 52 years old.
7) Is trying to find that 454 or LT-1 worth the money for a weekend driver, or are these cars really for serious collectors to keep as show cars only?
Let me know your thoughts and THANK YOU VERY MUCH in-advance!
Sincerely,
Mark
Elizabeth, Colorado
I have watched your youtube video "How to buy a C3 Corvette" at least four times in the past three months. I have Richard Prince’s “Corvette C3 Buyer's Guide 1968-1982” on-order and should be arriving any day now.
Since childhood, I have been enchanted by C3 Corvettes and have been trying to learn everything that I can before buying a C3.
I have every single Corvette sales brochure from 1968-1982 as well as the Corvette black book, and have most of the horsepower and available options memorized by year.
I have about $20,000.00 - $30,000.00 to spend in my budget to make payments on a nice (Class 3 in "Sunday driver" condition) 1970-1972 Corvette coupe for my third car. I am considering either Lightstream and Woodside to finance the C3 purchase.
1) What can I expect to get in this price-range?
The common theme that I hear is to buy as much Corvette as you can, because of a fixer-up-er is always more costly in the long run. I know this firsthand – I restored a vintage 1963 Ski Nautique from a fiberglass shell, did most of the gelcoat work myself, and it took me 10 years and $15,000.00. I am not doing any more restorations and instead I am just buying this time around.
Want to purchase a C3 that is:
----------------------------------
Chrome bumper
Flat Rear Glass
Original
Big Block if I can afford
Couple
Either Automatic or Manual Transmission
Therefore, a 1970-1972 (with the egg-crate side louvers).
Whatever C3 I buy, the car needs to be exceptional and “needs nothing”. I plan to drive the car extremely-carefully on specific well-maintained roads that have little traffic. So the car will be a NICE driver, but not a trailer queen either.
2) At what point does a person spend so much on a car, that they are afraid to drive it, perseverating-upon every rock chip?
Certainly these thresholds are different for everyone. I want something very nice that I can drive, but do not want to spend so much that I over-buy and end up with a car that really should be a trailer queen (a Bloomington Gold or Top Flight is likely clearly out of my budget).
But I do not want to drive a beater or rust-bucket either. What range should I consider spending to stay within the “nice Sunday & fair-weather driver” category?
3) I love the look of the 1970-1972 C3s both inside and out, but have never actually ridden in one (let alone driven one either). My Dad has a 1980 Corvette and I have ridden in and driven the car several times. How similar will the ride be for a 1970-1972?
I am not expecting a Cadillac ride, but want to know if the car will ride like *****’s Jeep or more like my Dad’s 1980 Corvette.
4) Regarding buying a C3: You state to do a complete pre-purchase mechanical and structural inspection before buying a Corvette. I agree.
Yet I do not see bidders at the Mecum or Barrett-Jackson auctions up on stage looking over these car in-advance either?
Any many of these are actually in my price range (except for an L88 or ZR1 of course).
So why is this an exception, especially if they are paying considerably more for these cars? What assurances do they have? Are all these cars certified in-advance?
5) Yet I am looking for a nice car to carefully enjoy. I am not an investor, collector and am not out to be in the business. How important are matching numbers versus NOM?
6) Where are the best deals to be found? eBay? Craigslist? Dealers? Car shows? Mecum? Barrett-Jackson?
I am fairly mechanically-savvy, but far from being a professional, so I am not intimidated by owning an older car. My boat is 52 years old.
7) Is trying to find that 454 or LT-1 worth the money for a weekend driver, or are these cars really for serious collectors to keep as show cars only?
Let me know your thoughts and THANK YOU VERY MUCH in-advance!
Sincerely,
Mark
Elizabeth, Colorado
08-17-2015, 09:04 AM
#112
Racer
And, once the Deal is made. Don't forget to Ask for any SPARE PARTS.
Mine included, AIM, stock steering wheel, new carpet for doors and power steering lines.
Have Fun,
Bill
Mine included, AIM, stock steering wheel, new carpet for doors and power steering lines.
Have Fun,
Bill
11-29-2015, 06:24 PM
#113
Have a question, I looked at a 72 and the frame has been coated. Looks great but in the large hole in the frame rail that is closest to the front tire, you can see some loose rust that appears to have fallen off inside and slid forward. This is on both sides. The car was done about 10 years ago. If you check the other holes there is nothing. That is what made me believe that whatever falls off inside slides forward when braking. No rust on bare metal parts anywhere else. Just the frame rails were coated.
How bad is this and what can be done if anything? The car appeared great overall until I found this. I wanted to buy it but now a bit leery. Number matching bone stock 72 454 4 speed.
How bad is this and what can be done if anything? The car appeared great overall until I found this. I wanted to buy it but now a bit leery. Number matching bone stock 72 454 4 speed.
11-30-2015, 11:08 AM
#114
Difficult to know for-sure without seeing pictures. You want to make sure that you have a solid, uncompromised frame or one that is properly mitigated with legitimate reinforced welds and proven to be roadworthy.
Have a question, I looked at a 72 and the frame has been coated. Looks great but in the large hole in the frame rail that is closest to the front tire, you can see some loose rust that appears to have fallen off inside and slid forward. This is on both sides. The car was done about 10 years ago. If you check the other holes there is nothing. That is what made me believe that whatever falls off inside slides forward when braking. No rust on bare metal parts anywhere else. Just the frame rails were coated.
How bad is this and what can be done if anything? The car appeared great overall until I found this. I wanted to buy it but now a bit leery. Number matching bone stock 72 454 4 speed.
How bad is this and what can be done if anything? The car appeared great overall until I found this. I wanted to buy it but now a bit leery. Number matching bone stock 72 454 4 speed.
The following users liked this post:
fcb71vette (11-30-2015)
01-09-2016, 10:39 AM
#115
4th Gear
Member Since: Jan 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Guys (and Gals), newbie here. I'll start out by saying I love forums for the simple reason you can almost always find exactly what you're looking for and this one is no exception. This thread has more info than I've been able to find anywhere else and it's all in one place. Kudos to the author.
Now for the back story; A friend of mine bought a house for rehab and in the collapsed garage was a '69 convertible. It's complete though it's more than a little rough. He was able to track down the owner, found out it was parked there in '91 because it quit running. The original owner signed the title over to him so he owns the car legally, free and clear and he has asked me to get it running. I have the time, tools, heated garage space and knowledge to do that but decided to do my homework before I even start. The car shows 53K on the odometer though I wouldn't be surprised if that's the second trip around since it was on the road for 22 years before it was parked. There's nothing really special about the car, it's as base as they come, no power steering, no power brakes, no A/C and an engine code of HW.
My question is this: Given he has zero dollars into the car, where does stupidity start when it comes to bringing the car back to life? I've not yet personally looked at the car but thanks to this thread I know where to begin. I can't imagine replacing the frame/bird cage is viable or am I screwed up with that thinking. Any and all opinions are welcome with many thanks.
Now for the back story; A friend of mine bought a house for rehab and in the collapsed garage was a '69 convertible. It's complete though it's more than a little rough. He was able to track down the owner, found out it was parked there in '91 because it quit running. The original owner signed the title over to him so he owns the car legally, free and clear and he has asked me to get it running. I have the time, tools, heated garage space and knowledge to do that but decided to do my homework before I even start. The car shows 53K on the odometer though I wouldn't be surprised if that's the second trip around since it was on the road for 22 years before it was parked. There's nothing really special about the car, it's as base as they come, no power steering, no power brakes, no A/C and an engine code of HW.
My question is this: Given he has zero dollars into the car, where does stupidity start when it comes to bringing the car back to life? I've not yet personally looked at the car but thanks to this thread I know where to begin. I can't imagine replacing the frame/bird cage is viable or am I screwed up with that thinking. Any and all opinions are welcome with many thanks.
Last edited by Harrier; 01-09-2016 at 10:47 AM. Reason: added a thanks
01-09-2016, 11:59 PM
#116
Racer
I just bought a 79 with the help of Ben's video, only thing I wasn't sure about was the little holes on both sides just in front of the front tire, any feed back appreciated, thanks!
01-11-2016, 07:47 PM
#117
Race Director
Harrier -
ANSWER - RIGHT THERE. It could easily cost $20k.
Sell it to someone, it's free $$. Give this headache to someone else.
There's a saying - "The most expensive Corvette out there is the one you got for free".
No Lie.
My question is this: Given he has zero dollars into the car, where does stupidity start when it comes to bringing the car back to life?
Sell it to someone, it's free $$. Give this headache to someone else.
There's a saying - "The most expensive Corvette out there is the one you got for free".
No Lie.
01-12-2016, 05:20 PM
#118
4th Gear
Member Since: Jan 2016
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Love the saying and I'll use it when he asks me about getting the car back on the road. Nothing like spending 20K on a 12K car. Thanks
01-15-2016, 08:45 PM
#119
Melting Slicks
If you think buying a C3 is a fiscally responsible decision; you really need to get back into your Camry and motor on out of here.
A 69 Convertible. Nothing special.
01-15-2016, 09:57 PM
#120
TheCorvetteBen
Thread Starter
Too many people on here worried about the money aspect of the car hobby. Too many flipping shows going to people's heads if you ask me.
