Winching onto trailer
#1
Winching onto trailer
I have purchased a 1969 corvette that does not run. Body is in great shape. I plan to winch the covette onto a Uhaul car trailer in order to get it home. Any suggestions or hints or tricks are greatly appreciated.
Last edited by iceref63; 01-28-2009 at 10:18 AM.
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Morrisonville Illinios
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DO NOT use the sway bar to pull it up on the trailer nor to tie it down with. use the lower cross member might need a small strap to go around it. Depending on how low the car is you might need a couple of 2x8's to set the car on to raise it up some. I prefer to lash down the lower control arm this will let the car move some on the trailer unless you have the straps the can go over the wheels. On the ***-end try to get you straps over the trailing arms again this will let it move a little as you go down the road. If you have the time to pick up some good straps i like going threw the rims and use separate tie-downs for each well. BUY GOOD RATCHET STRAPS you can usually pick some of them up at a tractor supply store and on sell for 10-bucks 10,000#'s with hooks. If you can use them you might get them to hook back on to themselves. On any excess strap left over tie it back over the handle so they can't work loose and secure the left over strap with duck tape or a bungee cord. Check you load after about 10 miles then every time you get fuel if your going a long way.
GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
#3
Should I place a block of some sort under the crossmember when I winch it onto the trailer? I am a little worried that the winch cable will rub the bottom valance when I winch it.
#4
Burning Brakes
DO NOT use the sway bar to pull it up on the trailer nor to tie it down with. use the lower cross member might need a small strap to go around it. Depending on how low the car is you might need a couple of 2x8's to set the car on to raise it up some. I prefer to lash down the lower control arm this will let the car move some on the trailer unless you have the straps the can go over the wheels. On the ***-end try to get you straps over the trailing arms again this will let it move a little as you go down the road. If you have the time to pick up some good straps i like going threw the rims and use separate tie-downs for each well. BUY GOOD RATCHET STRAPS you can usually pick some of them up at a tractor supply store and on sell for 10-bucks 10,000#'s with hooks. If you can use them you might get them to hook back on to themselves. On any excess strap left over tie it back over the handle so they can't work loose and secure the left over strap with duck tape or a bungee cord. Check you load after about 10 miles then every time you get fuel if your going a long way.
GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
GO STEELERS
#5
Melting Slicks
Front crossmember is probably your best bet for winching it onto the trailer.
For strapping it down on the trailer, there are two slotted holes in the frame under each door (4 total) that, to my understanding, were used to pull the car down the assembly line. Use S-hooks in these holes and attach your chains or heavy duty winching straps to the S-hooks.
Depending on where you can attach hooks, I tyically either use two chains and two big winching straps or 3 chains and two winching straps. Attach the chains to the two S hooks (slotted holes) in the front and affix to solid position on the trailer in the rear on the right and left and use the straps for the rear holes with the winching straps to the front. You can use a chain to go between the two S-hooks (slots) if you want to use only one winching strap. When you tighten the winching straps you will pull the car forward against the chains so it cannot move.
Good luck!
I'll see if I have any pics because that is CONFUSING!
For strapping it down on the trailer, there are two slotted holes in the frame under each door (4 total) that, to my understanding, were used to pull the car down the assembly line. Use S-hooks in these holes and attach your chains or heavy duty winching straps to the S-hooks.
Depending on where you can attach hooks, I tyically either use two chains and two big winching straps or 3 chains and two winching straps. Attach the chains to the two S hooks (slotted holes) in the front and affix to solid position on the trailer in the rear on the right and left and use the straps for the rear holes with the winching straps to the front. You can use a chain to go between the two S-hooks (slots) if you want to use only one winching strap. When you tighten the winching straps you will pull the car forward against the chains so it cannot move.
Good luck!
I'll see if I have any pics because that is CONFUSING!
Last edited by SuprJames; 01-28-2009 at 11:11 AM.
#6
Melting Slicks
In addition to the above good advice, if you can put the rear straps that secure the car to the trailer while driving in an "X" pattern that will prevent the straps from working their way loose on windy roads and prevent side-to-side movement of the car on the trailer.
#9
Melting Slicks
If you do it in the "X" pattern like 68 NJConv 454 you can probably avoid the chain touching the tires like it is in my pictures (it's actually barely touching the tires). Also, I went from the front of the trailer to the front slots, but going to the rear slots and vice versa for the rear of the trailer is what I've done since and it works better.
Pics:
Pics:
#10
Race Director
DO NOT use the sway bar to pull it up on the trailer nor to tie it down with. use the lower cross member might need a small strap to go around it. Depending on how low the car is you might need a couple of 2x8's to set the car on to raise it up some. I prefer to lash down the lower control arm this will let the car move some on the trailer unless you have the straps the can go over the wheels. On the ***-end try to get you straps over the trailing arms again this will let it move a little as you go down the road. If you have the time to pick up some good straps i like going threw the rims and use separate tie-downs for each well. BUY GOOD RATCHET STRAPS you can usually pick some of them up at a tractor supply store and on sell for 10-bucks 10,000#'s with hooks. If you can use them you might get them to hook back on to themselves. On any excess strap left over tie it back over the handle so they can't work loose and secure the left over strap with duck tape or a bungee cord. Check you load after about 10 miles then every time you get fuel if your going a long way.
GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
GOOD LUCK and have Lot's of FUN with your new toy wro87
Now why would you want it to move some on the trailer going down the road???
Your tie down points will depend largely on the tie down points on the trailer. Have them as long and as far apart as possible.
#11
Pro
pull your car up on the trailer so you will only have only about 300 pounds of toung weight on the trailer. if you dont have brakes on the trailer stoping the trailer is more inportant then pulling the trailer . make sure your hitch reciver pin is locked in and lock the trailer reciver os the latch cant come un lached. be safe and have a good trip
#12
Racer
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Sebago Lake Maine
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St. Jude Donor '09
In the rear I put a wide strap around the 1/2 shafts close to the wheels and go straight to the back of the trailer. Also have a chain strap that I hook into the frame just behind the door like shown above and go back under the car as a little extra security. You want more strength holding back if you have to hit the brakes hard. I cross the fronts going around the lower control arms.
Take her 500+ miles to Carlisle with no problems.
[IMG][/IMG]
#14
Melting Slicks
I'm sure an expert will chime in any minute
#18
#20
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2008
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hope this helps...I get zero roll at stop lights...the key is to keep the car stationary and not get too close to winch as it could tear front clip if it rolls onto it...so keep it about 1.5-3 ft away from winch...DDBS
above pics I'm ratcheting to frame under rear quarter panel- it's a pain to get the straps over it, that's why I have the new rear diff. strap- it's about 1.5 feet long with two hooks on each end (Jeggs)...DDBS
Last edited by Daddybugs; 02-04-2009 at 01:53 AM.