J.T.vette

I have a 1979 corvette and I have a question about the factory alarm. I have owned the car for 16 years and the alarm has nerver worked, and I want to get it working. When the alarm goes off should the courtesy light come on and blink off and on, or does just the alarm horn goes off?

spedaleden

Interior light don't blink, just horn goes off.

To try the alarm put the windows down and lock the doors with drivers power door lock switch or lock both doors manually. Alarm will arm in about 5 seconds. Then manually unlock drivers door and open. Horn should sound.

If not, check radio and theft fuse. Alarm module is located in jack storage compartment

KapsSA

I've had TWO bad alarm horns recently, one in my 25 mile original Pace Car and another in a friend's 78. Replaced them both, only problem there was with either system.

Alarm relay and flasher is located under the console just forward of the shifter on 79s. Try triggering the alarm and then listen closely for the flasher. Pretty much gotta put your ear to the console.

Aussie79

OK, I dont know what model 79 this guy has but here's what I have and I spent a week getting it working. Firstly, the horn itself may be frozen, mine was, you will find it in the drivers side front guard up behind the brake booster, put 12V directly across it and see if it hoots. Then dont fall for the trap I did, you must have your T tops on the vehicle to test, on 79's they have a switch in the birdcage where the locking pins fit to the rear. The alarm will NOT arm by using the power locks, the alarm will only arm by using the key in the drivers door only, lock the car and then turn the key to the front all the way. This sets the alarm. If it still doesnt work then it will either be the relay as mentioned above (it is under the console not in jack storage area) or, as was my case, the switch in the door that fits around the key barrel, its not too hard to get to but is fidly to repair and has a few wires on it that makes it hard to re-fit. After fooling with mine for ages I found two problems, one, the horn was seized (I drilled out the rivets, cleaned it up and put it back together with small bolts, more trouble than worth but I wanted to keep original F# sound) and the second thing was the lock itself in the door. Works a treat now but dont forget the t tops, it had me stumped for ages as the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual doesnt show the switches. I have a hand drawn wiring diagram you can have it you want it. Let me know by PM.

Cheers, Dennis.