It just won't start
#1
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It just won't start
Hi
I am trying to start an engine that has just been rebuilt. It is in a 71, 350, 270 HP, 4 speed. It cranks fine, but will not fire. All lights and other electrics seem fine. I can smell gas after cranking.
I have checked voltage at the starter with ignition off 13 vdc (+ from battery) and it is good.
I have checked voltage at the starter for the wire that goes to the coil (with ignition half way position) 12 VDC and it is good. The R temminal on starter solenoid.
I have checked ground from frame to engine with ohm meter, .6 ohms
I am assuming the ignition wire on the S terminal is fine since the engine cranks, is this a safe assumption?
I am not sure if I am getting spark. I pulled a plug and it is as clean as when new (I put new spark plugs in during rebuild).
Question:
I am begining to think the problem is in the distributor,how can I check the points?
How can I check spark? I was thinking about removing a spark plug and let it hang free with wire on it, then crank engine? I should be fine but wanted to check with you guys.
Thanks
I am trying to start an engine that has just been rebuilt. It is in a 71, 350, 270 HP, 4 speed. It cranks fine, but will not fire. All lights and other electrics seem fine. I can smell gas after cranking.
I have checked voltage at the starter with ignition off 13 vdc (+ from battery) and it is good.
I have checked voltage at the starter for the wire that goes to the coil (with ignition half way position) 12 VDC and it is good. The R temminal on starter solenoid.
I have checked ground from frame to engine with ohm meter, .6 ohms
I am assuming the ignition wire on the S terminal is fine since the engine cranks, is this a safe assumption?
I am not sure if I am getting spark. I pulled a plug and it is as clean as when new (I put new spark plugs in during rebuild).
Question:
I am begining to think the problem is in the distributor,how can I check the points?
How can I check spark? I was thinking about removing a spark plug and let it hang free with wire on it, then crank engine? I should be fine but wanted to check with you guys.
Thanks
Last edited by depdep3; 07-19-2009 at 11:01 AM.
#2
CF JASOC Member
Step one for me would be to lay your pulled spark plug on the exhaust manifold. Crank it and see if you're getting a spark.
If you are, then the points are likey fine.
Timing is another story.
If you are, then the points are likey fine.
Timing is another story.
#3
Pull coil wire out of coil but leave it resting loosely on top of coil. When turning over engine you should hear spark jump from wire to contact in coil if ignition system is firing. Holding spark plug to manifold will work but can shock the s*** out of you. My guess is you will not hear spark. If you have gas and spark something is going to happen. Are the points opening,do you have primary voltage to coil? Good luck,mds...
#4
Race Director
.....even if it's getting spark, if the distributor is installled incorrectly or 180* out, it isn't going to start.
#5
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I just went down and removed the coil ignition wire and bumped the motor. It has spark at the coil.
Next removed a spark plug and wire tied it close to manifold, it has spark at the plug.
I am thinking the distributor may not be in correct. I checked the rotor to make sure it is not on wrong, but it only goes on one way. How can I check that the distributor is in correct? I think I will be buying a timing light today.....
Also checked the wires on dist cap to plugs, they are correct.
Thanks for your help guys, keep the suggestions coming !!!!
Next removed a spark plug and wire tied it close to manifold, it has spark at the plug.
I am thinking the distributor may not be in correct. I checked the rotor to make sure it is not on wrong, but it only goes on one way. How can I check that the distributor is in correct? I think I will be buying a timing light today.....
Also checked the wires on dist cap to plugs, they are correct.
Thanks for your help guys, keep the suggestions coming !!!!
#6
Race Director
....you're firing order has to be correct and also timing. When #1 piston is at the top on it's firing stroke, #6 is also at the top, but it's not on it's firing or power stroke. That's why I said the distributor could be "180 degrees out". When #1 piston is on it's firing stroke(at the top), the rotor has to be pointing at #1 plug wire terminal on the distributor cap itself.
#7
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Might wanna try this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY1YndLmbXQ
Worked for me ...
All kidding aside , it sounds like your on the right track ..good luck .
Worked for me ...
All kidding aside , it sounds like your on the right track ..good luck .
#8
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I think you guys are on the right track. I just bumped the engine unitl I got close to TDC. See pic below. I then pulled the dist cap off and it looks like the rotor is pointing to the #2 wire.
#9
I know sometimes when I'm working on mine I will take a clamp and hit my fuel line to block the fuel from draining onto the floor. Since you replaced your engine I'm guessing you did something like that also. Did you remember to take the fule line clamp off? I think you said your smell gas but Im just asking anyway. Usually if you keep trying to start it and its getting fuel the plugs wont look brand new for long.
#10
You could be TDC on the exhaust stroke for #1. That is what the guys mean by being 180 degrees out. One way to find TDC on the compression stroke is to pull #1 plug, put your thumb over the spark plug hole, have some one bump over the engine with the coil wire pulled completely out for safety. When your thumb is pushed off of hole stop turning over engine and you are close to TDC compression #1. Then see if rotor is pointing to or close to #1.mds...
#11
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OK, Some good news....
I loosened up the distributer and tried to rotate it back to allow #1 wire to aling with rotor. However could not rotate far enough because of the tach cable length.
So I decided to shift the spark plug wires on the cap 1 location to allow #1 to aling with rotor. Turned the key and shazam!!! Fire in the hole!
I am thinking the diagram above is only an electrical diagram, and should not be a hard physical layout of the cap. What worries me is the photos I took of the spark plug wires before pulling the engine are now off by one location. I think when the distributor was installed it may have been off by a tooth ot two ????
I loosened up the distributer and tried to rotate it back to allow #1 wire to aling with rotor. However could not rotate far enough because of the tach cable length.
So I decided to shift the spark plug wires on the cap 1 location to allow #1 to aling with rotor. Turned the key and shazam!!! Fire in the hole!
I am thinking the diagram above is only an electrical diagram, and should not be a hard physical layout of the cap. What worries me is the photos I took of the spark plug wires before pulling the engine are now off by one location. I think when the distributor was installed it may have been off by a tooth ot two ????
#13
If you are off by one tooth on dist. drive gear on cam it will throw timing off by approx. that amount. Raise dist. slowly and when drive gear on dist. disengages rotate rotor in needed direction and lower dist. one tooth over. Try this until everything lines up. You may have to bump over engine to get dist. to seat against intake.mds...
#14
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Tomorrow I am going to pull the distributor out and move it a tooth or two. Then I will put the spark plug wires back in the correct position on the cap. Right now they are in the correct order, but offset by one location. The car starts but it is a bit rough and I am pretty sure the distributor is off a tooth or two.
THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED.
THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED.
#15
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Get a long handle screwdriver ready. Moving one tooth may work, but, you may have to rotate the oil pump a little to get the distributor shaft to sit back down. I never had much luck moving the one tooth without moving the oil pump a touch. Good luck.
#16
#1 doesnt really care where it is, what matters is that where ever it may be, it's going to the #1 cylinder during ignition. As Paul B said, if the distributor is 180 degrees off, you may be trying to fire on #3 (from the diagram above)
#17
Drifting
Lon Wayne
Tomorrow I am going to pull the distributor out and move it a tooth or two. Then I will put the spark plug wires back in the correct position on the cap. Right now they are in the correct order, but offset by one location. The car starts but it is a bit rough and I am pretty sure the distributor is off a tooth or two.
THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED.
THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED.
the dist in my 75 can only go in two ways 180 out or correct .
you must have an older car than mine . any way you need to find TDC top dead center . If im working on an engine someone else worked on first (and its not starting) I first find tdc remove #1 spark plug,down by the harmonic balancer you will find the big bolt that holds all that on with a big socket and braker bar turn the engine over by hand with a small piesce of rubber hose let it push the hose all the way out till it starts back in when the hose is all the way out give 1to 3% that is top dead center . now try to get the dist button to point to the #1 spark plug wire.have you tried the old timing light???
#18
Le Mans Master
The distributor can go in in a multitude of locations (however many teeth there are on the gear-16?), but you have to have the oil pump in tang the right location to allow that to happen. This is true of any Chevy V8 basically. Ford (and Olds? I can't remember) uses a hex to drive the oil pump, but the same basic principles hold.
#20
Melting Slicks
The distributor can go in in a multitude of locations (however many teeth there are on the gear-16?), but you have to have the oil pump in tang the right location to allow that to happen. This is true of any Chevy V8 basically. Ford (and Olds? I can't remember) uses a hex to drive the oil pump, but the same basic principles hold.