How to keep brake rotors from rusting?
#1
Instructor
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How to keep brake rotors from rusting?
I'm at the point in my project were I need to start bolting parts back on to the chassis. Trailling arms and front suspension are up next.
I unfortunately do not have a garage to work on my vette, but it is under my deck away from direct contact from elements.
I dont want my rotors to rust away while I continue my work. Is there something I can apply to the rotors to keep them from rusting that is easy to remove once she's ready for the road?
Thanks
I unfortunately do not have a garage to work on my vette, but it is under my deck away from direct contact from elements.
I dont want my rotors to rust away while I continue my work. Is there something I can apply to the rotors to keep them from rusting that is easy to remove once she's ready for the road?
Thanks
#3
Racer
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Kelly
#5
Team Owner
Paint the non-functional areas of the rotor with high-temp engine enamel (cast iron color) or with Seymour cast-blast ceramic paint. Do not paint any of the pad wear surfaces. WD-40 is a water dispersant, not a lubricant and not a protectant.
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2009
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I tried putting wd-40 on cylinder walls once and it seemed to rust up just as fast if not maybe faster to me. May be another reason but I'm not a believer in wd-40 for this use. The stuff that is on new rotors when you buy them might be the ticket if anything like that can be had?
#7
Team Owner
A thick preservative oil (i.e., cosmalene) might be good for keeping rust away if the part is stored, but it will only collect dirt and grime on the car. You can't protect the brake rotor by "lubing" it up.
#10
Le Mans Master
Clear Enamel paint, the pigment in a colored paint will gum up your brake pad material. PLEASE no WD40 or lubricants, or Cosmoline on any brake system parts, you can't be serious Clear paint will burn right off with no residual gunk. Hope this helps
#11
I think every one of guys that recommended putting oil on the friction surfaces should go try it for yourself first 1) to see if will do any good 2) see just how friggin difficult it's going to be to get 100% of it off so the pads don't get contaminated. Gimme a break.
To the OP- if your storage spot is that humid, the rotor surfaces are the least of your worries. There's hundreds of places on a C3 (mostly hidden) with bare steel that will start to rust in such conditions. Worry about those instead.
I'd find a better place to store it.
To the OP- if your storage spot is that humid, the rotor surfaces are the least of your worries. There's hundreds of places on a C3 (mostly hidden) with bare steel that will start to rust in such conditions. Worry about those instead.
I'd find a better place to store it.
#12
I think every one of guys that recommended putting oil on the friction surfaces should go try it for yourself first 1) to see if will do any good 2) see just how friggin difficult it's going to be to get 100% of it off so the pads don't get contaminated. Gimme a break.
To the OP- if your storage spot is that humid, the rotor surfaces are the least of your worries. There's hundreds of places on a C3 (mostly hidden) with bare steel that will start to rust in such conditions. Worry about those instead.
I'd find a better place to store it.
To the OP- if your storage spot is that humid, the rotor surfaces are the least of your worries. There's hundreds of places on a C3 (mostly hidden) with bare steel that will start to rust in such conditions. Worry about those instead.
I'd find a better place to store it.
#13
Race Director
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As you guys can imagine I am into all kinds of other "stuff" besides Corvettes,
I am deep into RC stuff and old arcade games and while working on RC stuff and restoring old Pachinko Machines I learned that over time WD-40 gets sticky...in some cases nasty sticky...sticky WD-40 is a dust and lint magnet amoung other things.
Just some food for thought on WD-40
I am deep into RC stuff and old arcade games and while working on RC stuff and restoring old Pachinko Machines I learned that over time WD-40 gets sticky...in some cases nasty sticky...sticky WD-40 is a dust and lint magnet amoung other things.
Just some food for thought on WD-40
Last edited by The13Bats; 10-25-2009 at 05:27 PM. Reason: I need glasses...lol
#14
Burning Brakes
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I would definitely never use WD-40 or any other lubricant on any brake part.
I would use a high temp paint ( silver or black ), like this one :
http://www.tuningracingcars27.com/im...argent_omp.gif
I would use a high temp paint ( silver or black ), like this one :
http://www.tuningracingcars27.com/im...argent_omp.gif
#15
Instructor
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Thanks for the education! I have painted the non-contact areas, now just trying to figure out how to get into the cooling fins...I could spray into them and just hope the paint covers it well? Maybe it's just leave it alone?
On the contact surfaces how about just hitting it with scotch pad every so often just to keep the heavy corrosion off... plus give me incentive to get my tucan in gear....
Sorry about the delay in replying to my own post...work just gets in the way of my hobby sometimes...
To all >
On the contact surfaces how about just hitting it with scotch pad every so often just to keep the heavy corrosion off... plus give me incentive to get my tucan in gear....
Sorry about the delay in replying to my own post...work just gets in the way of my hobby sometimes...
To all >
#16
Team Owner
Just shoot some paint down into the cooling passages. It will cover well enough to prevent heavy rust. If you are going to store the car for a significant period of time (a year or more), just put it up on jack stands (under the frame and one under the engine 'belly' pan to support the nose), remove the tires/wheels and lower tire pressure to about 10 pounds or so, then cover over each wheel assembly with a trash bag sealed off with duct tape. If you can find some packets of desiccant crystals (which soak up moisture), throw a couple in each bag/wheel.
#17
[QUOTE=7T1vette;1571965435] just put it up on jack stands (under the frame and one under the engine 'belly' pan to support the nose), QUOTE]
I went through a lot of effort to replace my "belly"pan because it was bent and corroded. It is a very thin piece of sheetmetal. If I ever catch someone jacking up on it, I will get extremely upset.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
I went through a lot of effort to replace my "belly"pan because it was bent and corroded. It is a very thin piece of sheetmetal. If I ever catch someone jacking up on it, I will get extremely upset.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
#18
Team Owner
As you guys can imagine I am into all kinds of other "stuff" besides Corvettes,
I am deep into RC stuff and old arcade games and while working on RC stuff and restoring old Pachinko Machines I learned that over time WD-40 gets sticky...in some cases nasty sticky...sticky WD-40 is a dust and lint magnet amoung other things.
Just some food for thought on WD-40
I am deep into RC stuff and old arcade games and while working on RC stuff and restoring old Pachinko Machines I learned that over time WD-40 gets sticky...in some cases nasty sticky...sticky WD-40 is a dust and lint magnet amoung other things.
Just some food for thought on WD-40
#19
Melting Slicks
I use Fluid Film... a soluble protectant I got from a local John Deere dealer. Sprays on like white lube but is not a grease... dries tacky but cleans with soap and water. Cool stuff!
#20
Drifting
You guys are over thinking this.
What happens when it rains? The rotors rust.
What happens when you step on the brake the first time after the rotors rust? The pads scrub off the rust! Plain and simple. They're supposed to do that.
It's not a problem. Paint the hub and vent fins. Leave the pad surface of the rotors alone.
What happens when it rains? The rotors rust.
What happens when you step on the brake the first time after the rotors rust? The pads scrub off the rust! Plain and simple. They're supposed to do that.
It's not a problem. Paint the hub and vent fins. Leave the pad surface of the rotors alone.