ZBRA

I'm in the market for my first C3. I am only considering original body 68-72s (with manual transmission). I really prefer the 68-69 gills and round turn signals. I have heard & read to stay clear of the 68 due to so many one-year-only features that are hard to find or super expensive should they need replacing.

My question is, can the 68-only parts easily be replaced with 69 and later parts? I am not restoring a car, I am looking for a nice driver. Other than exterior appearance, originality does not matter to me at all.

Here are the differences I know about:

Ignition switch on dash.
Can't be that expensive to fix if necessary?

No map pocket on passenger side
Doesn't matter to me either way

Different door panels
Do the 69-later panels fit with no mods?

Panel around shifter looks different
Do the later panels fit?

Push button exterior door handle.
Can these easily be converted to 69-82 handles & locks

Larger steering wheel.
Later stock smaller steering wheels are fine with me, but will they fit the 68 column?

327 instead of 350
NOM is fine with me

7" rally wheels instead of later 8"
Easy fix here. Either width wheels are fine with me. I'm not trying to match numbers or date codes.

What other differences are there that I don't know about?

Easy Mike

Why do all the swapping around? If you want a '68, shop for a '68. If you want a '69, go that route.

Ret.Horsecop13

Why bother with the 68? Unless you found one already?

ZBRA

I don't really have a preference between 68 and 69. They both look great. I am just wondering if I should be avoiding the 68 in my search, or if I could use later model parts to fix anything that may need repairing. I wouldn't swap anything unless it was broke or needed to be replaced anyway.

For example, if I bought a 68 with cracked door panels. Would I have to shell out big bucks and scour the planet for one year only door panels, or could I just use the later door panels?

I can't afford an already restored car. All of the cars in my price range need TLC.

nutsy

68 does not have stingray on fender.

80 Black Vette

In my opinion, search for a '69. Know how much money you intend to spend. They're all fun and require maintenance which equals additional funds.

Now go to Prejean's and have some crawfish, boudin and alligator.

Travis

ZBRA

That does sound good. They have the best gumbo in town too.

Priya

They're similar enough, look at both years and get whichever one is the best buy in terms of colours/options that you want. That way you've got twice as many to choose from and are more likely to find a good buy on exactly what you're after.

DZRick

You can save a chunk of change by buying a '68 because everyone says they aren't as good as the '69

7T1vette

There is no reason to avoid a '68. Just check out the "odd" features to make sure they work well. They are essentially the same vehicle except for the items you mentioned. If you find a '68 in your price range that looks good and checks out, buy it.

P.S. Something to consider in your search is that '68-'70 had higher compression engines which may...or may not...run well on today's hi-test pump gas. The '71 & '72 (and later) engines had lower compression and will run on today's regular [base engines] or hi-test [perf. engines]. The '70 and up years also had flares built into them behind each wheelwell to keep the 'road rash' from eating up the under body panels. That's why I opted for a '71 or '72 when I was looking.

Corey_68

funny part is the '69's we had were worse build quality wise than the '68's.

Personal preference, I like the '68 because it's different.

Fishndude

If the car has Air Conditioning, the air vent below the wiper switch is also different (one long vent as apposed to have 2 sides like the later models)..

capevettes

When I was shopping for a C3 a few years ago, all I wanted was a 68 or a 69 because I wanted a 427. I found a well sorted out 68 Lemans blue 427/390 coupe and love it. Lots of 1 year only features which I think distinguish the car. Door panels, seat covers and many of the other parts are readily available. Some are not. I've driven both and basically they are the same car except for a few minor changes for 69. You can't go wrong with either year as long as you do your homework and buy a nice car. Good luck

flyinfree

This is what I know from experience. I have been mislead on this forum in regards to 68/69 doors.

The inner door panel on a 68 is not interchangable with 69 door panels. The door pulls on the 2 years are completely different. If you try the 69 panel on the 68 door you will not have screws to hold the door pull to door.

Also, you cannot convert a 68 push button to the 69 style. I even tried to swap door skins and this would not work. The 68 has a completely different door frame that interferes with the 69 style mechanism.

With that being said 69 style doors are easily found and you could replace the entire door. Plus you should be able to sell the 68 doors for quite a bit more than you could buy the 69's.

Find the best car possible. You will not regret buying a 68 actually the uniqueness grows on you. The 68 doors really set the car apart from the rest of the C3's. IF you get a 68 be sure to join the social group here on the forum "68 owners unite".

ZBRA

Sounds like I can expand my search into the 68s.

In my price range, I doubt I will be buying anything with an original motor anyway. I would like to stay under 14K. I'm looking for something with no body damage, decent (not show quality) paint, and no birdcage rust.

I'll pay a little more for a car with flawless paint and body if it's a good color.

Interior work is easy. I can do any of that myself, so an interior that needs a little work won't run my off. Same with mechanical problems. I can fix things. I just can't do body work, painting, or welding.

I would even consider a car with frame rot if the birdcage somehow wasn't rusted. I would expect to pay less, and with the money saved I would buy an SRIII frame.

Roughrider

Everything else being equal (which it rarely is), there's more '69s out there to pick from due to greater production numbers resulting from a longer model year run.

jr9170

If you dont mind the 68 or 69 as you like both,than i would buy the better of the two regardless of the one year only items of the 68.As someone said previously if you want a 68 than buy the 68.Right now is a good time to buy as plenty are available.

ZBRA

Yeah, I don't care one way or the other. 68 or 69 would both be great.

I'm not ruling out a 70-72, but I will pay more for a 68 or 69.

Poppa Bud

I bought a 68 because it was the first car that met my needs (no restoration needed, no rust)

If you find a 68 with the one year only parts, their availability isn't an issue.

Another 68 only - back up lights on the lower rear valence instead of in the tail lights

Good luck with your search.

7T1vette

If you buy a '68 or '69 because of "desirability" and it doesn't have the original engine....forget it. It is no more valuable than a '70-72. On the other hand, in today's market, you may be able to pick up a '72 coupe with the original engine for around $15K. If it needs mechanical work on the steering/brakes/suspension, you can probably get it for less [since you can do that work]. But, unless you can shoot your own paint, buy one with a paint job that you can live with; re-doing the paint is an expensive proposition.