Willcox New Tach Board Installation Video 1975-1977
02-16-2010, 07:25 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Willcox New Tach Board Installation Video 1975-1977
Hey Guys.. here is another one for you to laugh with me on...
This is the new Tachometer board installation video we just did. We kind of tossed this one together the past two days trying to help a customer understand the zero set. After six attempts.. we just decided we would let the video fly and shoot from the hip. Seems to have turned out ok, but I did find a few corrections that I'll make the next time around.
I'll try to do a better one when time permits.
Willcox
This is the new Tachometer board installation video we just did. We kind of tossed this one together the past two days trying to help a customer understand the zero set. After six attempts.. we just decided we would let the video fly and shoot from the hip. Seems to have turned out ok, but I did find a few corrections that I'll make the next time around.
I'll try to do a better one when time permits.
Willcox
02-18-2010, 01:23 AM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
No problem Rio!
Willcox
Willcox
02-18-2010, 11:45 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
Much thanks! Super job!
Much thanks and Super job! Info like this is just super, I wish I had had this video when I replaced my tach board.
(I took my needle off and pushed it back on more times than you though!)
(I took my needle off and pushed it back on more times than you though!)
02-18-2010, 01:26 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Mercury.. I got lucky... 
Willcox
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02-18-2010, 09:53 PM
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Thetre's a few things to always keep in mind:
*calibration tracking. Although the zero set is done; always check the calibration through the entire range. I've seen too many meter movements that will show accurately at 1000rpm... but be off at 5000. It's the meters fault - not the replacement circuit board.
*due to the above finding, I'd never suggest buying a "pre-calibrated" board and install it yourself. There's too much variation between the meter movements... especially for ones that have age on them (don't they all these days ???)
*calibration tracking. Although the zero set is done; always check the calibration through the entire range. I've seen too many meter movements that will show accurately at 1000rpm... but be off at 5000. It's the meters fault - not the replacement circuit board.
*due to the above finding, I'd never suggest buying a "pre-calibrated" board and install it yourself. There's too much variation between the meter movements... especially for ones that have age on them (don't they all these days ???)
02-18-2010, 10:43 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Mike,
You are 100 percent correct! The condition of the movement is most critical when setting the calibration. The sign and co-sine outputs of our boards were determined from original tach boards and their corresponding outputs.
One thing I didn't cover was a quick way to tell if the movement is missing oil and that is to just tilt the gauge forward to backwards. If the needle moves fluently then the dampening fluid is gone from the gauge
If you have a tach that is in horrible condition, and say the dampening fluid is all but missing from the gauge your readings will vary! A slight mistake in the zero set and the reading will vary as well. To compound this issue if you'll take a look at the video we did on the 1978-1982 tachometer. The reproduction board performed better than the original board. This happens, there really is nothing we can do about it. We have to calibrate the boards, you can't just send one out with nothing on it since most customers can install a board and in most cases it will be very close.
There are variances between tach to tach and this is one reason we always suggest testing the tachometer before installing it especially on a 1975-1977 car. One can spend all day removing the tach from this car.
One thing that was most critical to us was the lower end readings say between 700, 2000 and 3000 rpms. Most customers are aware of what RPM's the car should idle at and most customers are aware of what the cruising RPM's are on his car. At least I know what my cars turn at 60-70 mph. However, most people that hit 3000 are only hitting it for a brief moment and the 4000 rpm guys are usually flying by this mark if at all which makes getting a reading while driving the car pretty hard. But the 700-2000 and 2500 guys.. they will know instantly if there is a problem.
So basically, the board should be more accurate than a GM board, and if they are off due to a poor condition movement, there is a 15 turn pot installed for adjustments.
One thing we definitely wanted to stay away from was the el'cheepo 1 turn pot used on other boards! In testing we found that simply dropping the board on the table could change the reading and basically because the 1 turn pot was so sensitive to movement and so cheaply made! I stated in the video that you can tap on the 1 turn with your finger and the output will change. The 15 turn pot cost more money, but in the end it is a better product.
Willcox
You are 100 percent correct! The condition of the movement is most critical when setting the calibration. The sign and co-sine outputs of our boards were determined from original tach boards and their corresponding outputs.
One thing I didn't cover was a quick way to tell if the movement is missing oil and that is to just tilt the gauge forward to backwards. If the needle moves fluently then the dampening fluid is gone from the gauge
If you have a tach that is in horrible condition, and say the dampening fluid is all but missing from the gauge your readings will vary! A slight mistake in the zero set and the reading will vary as well. To compound this issue if you'll take a look at the video we did on the 1978-1982 tachometer. The reproduction board performed better than the original board. This happens, there really is nothing we can do about it. We have to calibrate the boards, you can't just send one out with nothing on it since most customers can install a board and in most cases it will be very close.
There are variances between tach to tach and this is one reason we always suggest testing the tachometer before installing it especially on a 1975-1977 car. One can spend all day removing the tach from this car.
One thing that was most critical to us was the lower end readings say between 700, 2000 and 3000 rpms. Most customers are aware of what RPM's the car should idle at and most customers are aware of what the cruising RPM's are on his car. At least I know what my cars turn at 60-70 mph. However, most people that hit 3000 are only hitting it for a brief moment and the 4000 rpm guys are usually flying by this mark if at all which makes getting a reading while driving the car pretty hard. But the 700-2000 and 2500 guys.. they will know instantly if there is a problem.
So basically, the board should be more accurate than a GM board, and if they are off due to a poor condition movement, there is a 15 turn pot installed for adjustments.
One thing we definitely wanted to stay away from was the el'cheepo 1 turn pot used on other boards! In testing we found that simply dropping the board on the table could change the reading and basically because the 1 turn pot was so sensitive to movement and so cheaply made! I stated in the video that you can tap on the 1 turn with your finger and the output will change. The 15 turn pot cost more money, but in the end it is a better product.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 02-18-2010 at 10:50 PM.
02-19-2010, 07:43 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
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02-19-2010, 08:33 PM
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So basically, the board should be more accurate than a GM board, and if they are off due to a poor condition movement, there is a 15 turn pot installed for adjustments.
I worked at a Delco Electronics repair center for about 5 years... actually repairing 1975 thru 1981 tachometers when they were still under warranty; but i'm not old... Ok ???
yep, those OEM GM boards were a joke
02-20-2010, 02:05 AM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Mike-
Honestly, you have to love them for what they were! For their day and place in time they were really high tech!
Every time I look at one of those original boards, I look for the scratch lines... I'm not sure why, but I do! Call it intrigued maybe.. no explanation for it at all....
Ernie
Honestly, you have to love them for what they were! For their day and place in time they were really high tech!
Every time I look at one of those original boards, I look for the scratch lines... I'm not sure why, but I do! Call it intrigued maybe.. no explanation for it at all....
Ernie
02-20-2010, 08:42 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Mike-
Honestly, you have to love them for what they were! For their day and place in time they were really high tech!
Every time I look at one of those original boards, I look for the scratch lines... I'm not sure why, but I do! Call it intrigued maybe.. no explanation for it at all....
Ernie
Honestly, you have to love them for what they were! For their day and place in time they were really high tech!
Every time I look at one of those original boards, I look for the scratch lines... I'm not sure why, but I do! Call it intrigued maybe.. no explanation for it at all....
Ernie
02-21-2010, 01:11 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Rio-
You can install this, it's not hard once the tach is out! I don't do the tachs on exchange.. but if you want to send yours in i an install and match calibrate it.
Willcox
You can install this, it's not hard once the tach is out! I don't do the tachs on exchange.. but if you want to send yours in i an install and match calibrate it.
Willcox
02-23-2010, 09:39 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Last bump for these!
02-26-2010, 02:56 PM
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I am glad to see that I did everything okay as I finished fixing my tach about 2 weeks ago, just before this release. I was able to replace the face of a 74 with the electronics off of a 75. I've got a question. What are the odds that my tach board from an original 75 is still working? I looked at it an did not notice any burn marks. I was able to zero it, but am unable to test it, because my engine is apart. Should I just go and buy a new tach board and install it, or do you think the original is still okay? What are the odds that the original will not work one day? How about the new tach board? Do they fry as well? Where is the best place to buy a new tach board, if that is your recommendation?
03-04-2010, 07:55 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I am glad to see that I did everything okay as I finished fixing my tach about 2 weeks ago, just before this release. I was able to replace the face of a 74 with the electronics off of a 75. I've got a question. What are the odds that my tach board from an original 75 is still working? I looked at it an did not notice any burn marks. I was able to zero it, but am unable to test it, because my engine is apart. Should I just go and buy a new tach board and install it, or do you think the original is still okay? What are the odds that the original will not work one day? How about the new tach board? Do they fry as well? Where is the best place to buy a new tach board, if that is your recommendation?
The odds the original board is working.... crap shoot here too! You really should find a way to test the tach before doing the installation. If nothing else.... send the tach to us and we can test it for you.
How about the new board? Do they fry.... Yeah anything can be fried! There are filters on the board to help prevent this, but it is possible.
Where is the best place to buy a new board....
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...&keywords=tach We make these boards right here in house and they are the best board on the market!
Willcox
04-13-2010, 08:43 PM
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10-09-2015, 10:17 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
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09-17-2016, 10:17 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
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