Any1 have problems with Ecklers Bonding Adhesive?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Any1 have problems with Ecklers Bonding Adhesive?
Want to know if anyone has had problems with Ecklers Bonding Adhesive. I am gluing on a 69 front end off one car to my 69 convertible. Have replace some bonding strips and ground them down to prep the surfaces. I have glued this front end twice and the adhesive does not hold(both time). Yes, I have the mix ratios down and cleaned off the old adhesive and sanded the areas down with 80 grit sandpaper and clean off the residue. I never had problems doing this on my 70 but that was a years ago, maybe Ecklers has changed the material. I know there are two types of bonding adhesive, one for cars with the old glass and SMC. I have heard that Evercoat and 3M make similar and better product.
I know the answers exist here on the forum, so help me out guys. I want to do this one last time and have it done right so I can pull the body off and get on with the frame off.
Thanks for all your help.
I know the answers exist here on the forum, so help me out guys. I want to do this one last time and have it done right so I can pull the body off and get on with the frame off.
Thanks for all your help.
#4
Pro
#6
Advanced
#7
adhesives
Evercoat VPA or VPS. Maybe you should make a post in the paint and body are. You get very good info. Just my 2 cents.
R
R
#8
Drifting
U can use the Evercoat 994 if your the panels to be adhered are SMC. You can use the Evercoat 870 (VPA) if they are straight fiberglass and also as a body filler on both SMC and fiberglass. You can use the Fusor 127ez also, But you should not use it in areas where you will be putting any kind of filler over the top of it, Like at any of the panel seams were additional bodywork is required. Just my 2 cents.
#9
Melting Slicks
My experience with Ecklers restoration formula....
I posted my experience last Oct in the Paint section. I used restoration formula which is supposed to look original and hardens black. After talking with Ecklers, their regular bonding adhesive is the same stuff, just different color I think. Suggest you mix up a trial batch and call Ecklers or the manufacturer listed on the can. My limited experience is proper measuring, good mixing and ambient temp is very important. Hope this might help, I know you said some of this you did already. Also not good for the SMC later stuff starting in 73, reckon your donor has a SMC clip? I have no idea how to tell. My case did result in a successful bonding job.
First of all, DUB knows more than I will ever know, but I can share my experience which might be helpful.
I glued a new press molded hood surround to my 72 with original fenders recently and used Ecklers Restoration Formula which is a Vette Panel Adhesive or VPA, (no this is incorrect, I found out later) I think. I called the vendor in Oregon and he told me the directions on the can would result in a very quick set up in warm weather. He said 12 drops on a golf ball size piece would set up in 20 to 25 minutes at 70 to 75 degrees. He said to mix up some batches and test the times.
In my case, I glued one side of the hood surround at a time using the Glas Ray videos. I waited until I had a dry day 60F in the morning and warming to 85 in the afternoon. There are some other guides on the internet too for polyester resins, so after some study, I settled on 1%. So, I measured 1 quart of glue and 9ml of hardener and mixed it in a container. I got all of the glue on in about 20 min early in the morning and an hour later, the stuff still had not set. A couple of hours later when the temp started getting around 70 to 75, the glue started hardening and an hour later at 80+, the glue was hard as a rock.
Hope this might help. I am thinking ambient temp has a lot to do with this stuff working correctly, as of course, how much hardener you add. [/B]
First of all, DUB knows more than I will ever know, but I can share my experience which might be helpful.
I glued a new press molded hood surround to my 72 with original fenders recently and used Ecklers Restoration Formula which is a Vette Panel Adhesive or VPA, (no this is incorrect, I found out later) I think. I called the vendor in Oregon and he told me the directions on the can would result in a very quick set up in warm weather. He said 12 drops on a golf ball size piece would set up in 20 to 25 minutes at 70 to 75 degrees. He said to mix up some batches and test the times.
In my case, I glued one side of the hood surround at a time using the Glas Ray videos. I waited until I had a dry day 60F in the morning and warming to 85 in the afternoon. There are some other guides on the internet too for polyester resins, so after some study, I settled on 1%. So, I measured 1 quart of glue and 9ml of hardener and mixed it in a container. I got all of the glue on in about 20 min early in the morning and an hour later, the stuff still had not set. A couple of hours later when the temp started getting around 70 to 75, the glue started hardening and an hour later at 80+, the glue was hard as a rock.
Hope this might help. I am thinking ambient temp has a lot to do with this stuff working correctly, as of course, how much hardener you add. [/B]
Last edited by 20mercury; 12-10-2014 at 05:02 PM.
#10
Advanced
U can use the Evercoat 994 if your the panels to be adhered are SMC. You can use the Evercoat 870 (VPA) if they are straight fiberglass and also as a body filler on both SMC and fiberglass. You can use the Fusor 127ez also, But you should not use it in areas where you will be putting any kind of filler over the top of it, Like at any of the panel seams were additional bodywork is required. Just my 2 cents.
#11
Le Mans Master
I like Fusor products . Just used it to bond an outer door skin and used it a few years ago on another corvette to install a complete used front clip. But there are different numbered adhesives for different applications such as bonding fiberglass to fiberglass or fiberglass to metal which is what is required to install a door skin to the metal frame.
#13
Racer
I used the 3m 8115, I think that was it lol, to bond my 81 to parts from a 78 but I knew that it was all SMC, bonded great so far no complaints and as strong or stronger than original
#14
Drifting
127ez is a urethane based adhesive which can be solvent sensitive and heat sensitive and cause bodywork to delaminate and paint to bubble and lift.
I used 127ez to bond the left fender on my Vette, But only on all the inside mounting areas where there would be no bodywork involved. On the fender to bonding strip area I used Evercoat 994 while also wiping away most of the excess. I then worked the seam with Evercoat 870 ( VPA).
I know I could of just used the 994 alone to bond the fender but I really do like the bonding strength of the more modern adhesives better. Sounds unorthodox but thats just my way.
I used 127ez to bond the left fender on my Vette, But only on all the inside mounting areas where there would be no bodywork involved. On the fender to bonding strip area I used Evercoat 994 while also wiping away most of the excess. I then worked the seam with Evercoat 870 ( VPA).
I know I could of just used the 994 alone to bond the fender but I really do like the bonding strength of the more modern adhesives better. Sounds unorthodox but thats just my way.
#15
Advanced
127ez is a urethane based adhesive which can be solvent sensitive and heat sensitive and cause bodywork to delaminate and paint to bubble and lift.
I used 127ez to bond the left fender on my Vette, But only on all the inside mounting areas where there would be no bodywork involved. On the fender to bonding strip area I used Evercoat 994 while also wiping away most of the excess. I then worked the seam with Evercoat 870 ( VPA).
I know I could of just used the 994 alone to bond the fender but I really do like the bonding strength of the more modern adhesives better. Sounds unorthodox but thats just my way.
I used 127ez to bond the left fender on my Vette, But only on all the inside mounting areas where there would be no bodywork involved. On the fender to bonding strip area I used Evercoat 994 while also wiping away most of the excess. I then worked the seam with Evercoat 870 ( VPA).
I know I could of just used the 994 alone to bond the fender but I really do like the bonding strength of the more modern adhesives better. Sounds unorthodox but thats just my way.
Darrel