1970TopDownAlways

Evening, everyone. I'm in the process of replacing the entire carpet set in my '70 vert, and have a bunch of questions.

1. As I disassembled the rear storage compartment and lifted up the carpet, I discovered a thin rubber-like layer across the back part of the storage compartment. It is also up above parts of the wheel wells. Much of the old carpet seems stuck to this, so I was wondering if this rubber layer was worth replacing. If so, I have never noticed it in any of the after-market retailers; where would I find it?

2. Also, is there a good product for allowing me to take away all the extra fuzz from the carpet that is stuck to the body of the car (Goof Off, etc)?

3. What is a good product (please keep in mind I'm on a budget!) that will help with soundproofing and preventing heat from coming through the firewall?

4. Last (for now!)...to adhere the foil layer, and then to adhere the carpet to the foil layer, is adhesive spray better than using adhesive applied with a roller?

Thank you very much for your help.

All the best.

Vr,
Craig

Indiancreek

There is a product for the heat that you add to your paint that helps with the heat issue. It is tiny ceramic cones that insulate. I'll have to look up the name if I can still find it. Not very expensive. I don't think it will be as good as a real insulation layer, but in addition for little money will add up to some help.
I'm going to use it with the insulation on mine. I'll line the doors with it also. Between the two types of insulation there may be a reasonable heat reduction and help with the sound.

GREGG-73

All of your question's can be answered here.....






Stay in tune....

Alan 71

Hi Craig,
I can only reply to part of your post.
The original underlayment/padding was a jute material with a thin black rubberized coating on the side that faced the carpet.
I don't think anyone is reproducing it. All the varous underlayments available now are quite different from it.
I used lots of cheap lacquer thinner and 3M interior adhesive remover to clean up the floor.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

These pictures are from my 71.

1970TopDownAlways

Thank you, all.

Alan: Your interior looks fantastic. From the looks of your photos, my best bet is to clean the floor and the underlayment with lacquer thinner and adhesive remover. If I end up using a Dynamat-type product for underneath the carpet, should I use it along with the original underlayment? If so, what do you think about which goes on top of the other?

Thanks again.

cwb

eagle275

I'm using Lizard Skin first, http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/testimonials4.php and then this ( he is a forum member) - http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/s...t_detail&p=119

then new carpet.

Good luck.

Alan 71

Hi cwb,
I really can't help on the underlayment question since I've only used the original material.
I'd THINK you'd put the "silver stuff" down first, then the plain jute underlayment that comes with the carpet sets, and then the carpet.
That seems the right sequence to me.
Regards,
Alan

rod7515

Craig / Allen - I am at the same place on my restoration and was hoping for some pics of how the carpet was in from the factory. When I bought my car the rear carpet was rotted out and mostly missing. Mine is a convertible, so I have a set of astro vents on the rear panel that I am not sure how the carpet is to be around them. Also i need to know more about the interior light on the back panel. Allen, are the pics that you posted of a convertible or t top? Can you post any from the wheel wells up to the rear of the door panel so I can see how far the carpet is to come and where I will need to trim. Then maybe something of the storage compartment. I just dont want to cut then find out I was wrong! lol . Also does the section for the seats go over the rear piece or does that piece go over the seat section.
Craig, as for insulation or sound deadening I used the Lizard skin on the front floor panels on my 74 and it really worked great at keeping the heat out of the pasenger compartment. Not sure about what I am going to do on the rear. If you should decide to try the lizard skin you'll need to have a special gun to spray it. I already have one here that I could loan you rather then you spending the 75 bucks for one.
Good luck on your installation. If I can share anything to help you fell free to yell.
Rodney

Alan 71

Hi Rod,
The wheel-well pieces are forced down about 1" between the front of the wheel-well and the back-side of the metal bulkhead behind the seats.
The piece on the bulkhead behind the seats hangs down loosely and extends over the 2 pieces of floor carpet that are under the seats. Since mine is a coupe I don't have picture of the convertible astro-vents. Originally the convertible carpet extended up the rear bulkhead to a point just under the astro-vents.
Here are some of the carpet pictures from my 71 coupe.
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Alan













Original wheelwell, seat bulkhead, rear floor and bulkhead , carpet and pad.

rod7515

Hey Allen, Thanks for the pics. I am sure that a lot of people have been where I am and need help and your pics tell a a lot. Hopefully this week I can spend some time and try to fit everything together. Craig, make sure you post some pics as you go. Would like to see your progress.
Thanks Again,
Rodney

1970TopDownAlways

Rodney: thank you for the offer for the help, as well as to use your Lizard Skin gun. After looking at their website, I think the recommended 4 gallons is out of my price range; I think I will settle for a "foil-backed" product, and maybe some sound deadener.

I ripped the 2 rear wheelwell carpet pieces out (so no turning back now!!), as well as the main rear compartment piece. I intend to use some adhesive remover as Alan mentioned to get rid of the remnants of the insulation / underlayment that is still stuck to the fiberglass. I'll try to see if I can resurrect the original rubber-backed underlayment to re-use for the installation.

Pics to follow this weekend, including the vent area (tough to see though since I put in one of those speaker sets that spans width of the cargo area)...I think I'll be able to log some time on it since it is a holiday weekend.

All the best.

Craig

Indiancreek

Craig, there is a cheaper way to get the ceramic stuff. You have to mix it yourself, but its the ceramic part without the carrier. Very afordable and can be brushed on depending on the carrier you use.
You're cutting out the middleman. I'll see if I can locate the invoice, or the web site, and post it or send it to you. Give me a day or so.

Indiancreek

I can't find the e-address but the company is HY-TECH I think. If that doesn't get you there let me know.
Enough ceramic stuff to make 5 gallons cost me $49.95 I remember. Didn't need all of two gallons. They have a answer questions section that addresses most all questions.
They also have a flame retardent addative as well as a flow flex addative.
It made more sense to me to not pay to ship paint that I can buy here.
It may have been www.hytech or something like that.
Let me know if you find it.

1970TopDownAlways

Julian: wow...found it at http://www.hytechsales.com. What an interesting product. The Metal Shield #1267 seems like the best fit, but I plan on calling them to explain what I am trying to achieve, and see what their recommendation is (sure looked like there were alot of different products to choose from).

So you got the additive, then? What type of paint did you add it to, and from where did you get that paint? From your experience, any recommendations on application instructions (roller vs. brush)?

Thank you very much for the help.

Vr, Craig

mar

Do Yourself A Favor: After having just been thru replacing an entire interior including carpet - my advice is to NOT use that 1/4" foil junk. Your carpet simply will not fit right. OK - so you cut down on .5 Db - so what. If anything, use those large squares of soundproof tile that are about 1/32" thick. On my next car I will NOT use that foil crap.

Also - do yourself an even better favor: order carpet from Al Knoch and order a set from Corvette America and determine which one is best - send back the inferior one.

Indiancreek

You can use about any paint you want. I used black. I brushed it on so I could get it as thick as I could, I maybe should have gotten the additive to make the paint more pliable. It works without it.
They have some good stuff. It just makes more sense to buy the paint here instead of paying to ship all that weight. I just ordered another batch to mix 5 gallons. I'm about to do two frame off deals.
Let me know how it works for you.

Indiancreek

Craig, since this stuff works reflecting away. On these two frame off cars, I'm going to paint both the outside and the inside of the pass. compartment. I also did the inside the doors themselves, while I had the window guts out to rebuild them.
Just a couple thoughts.

Julian

BTGRN75

I used the double foil bubble under the carpet. Carpet fits good,but it doesn't like to glue to the foil. Used it on the doors instead of the plastic for sound also. But, I think my new panels from CA are not fitting tight to the door sides because of it.

68thumper

I love your interior! Can you tell me where you purchased the parking brake cover that has the lint or dust fibers covering the slot the parking brake handle operates in. Perhaps it is stock? I just purchased a 68 convertible from one of the forum members and need to update some interior pieces. The other thing I need to replace is the storage compartment assembly. The doors are bad and the plastic molding around the doors and compartment is hard and broken. I don't know which supplier to buy from...any thoughts?

Thanks...Brent