Lizard skin prep
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Lizard skin prep
I'm getting my 72 project ready for a Lizard skin liner. I cleaned out and have most of the old paint and glue out of the interior. Probably over kill but clean now. There were a few spots in the fiberglass where me and the PO had damaged the glass so I made a couple of patches. Mixed the epoxy a little too hot so in 100 degree heat 7 ounces of resin lasted about 5 minutes and made a nice lump in the cup I was using. Tomorrow I'm using less hardener and less resin. Hopefully next weekend it will actually get some Lizard skin.
Bill
Right side just about right.
Couple of little repairs.
Repaired holes and reinforced drain tube area.
Bill
Right side just about right.
Couple of little repairs.
Repaired holes and reinforced drain tube area.
#2
Burning Brakes
Be sure to tape off all the holes and fasteners you don't want all globbed up with LIZARD SKIN. It is really fast and easy to use. My car is not on the road yet, so I don't know how effective it is. It goes on purple and dries black so you can tell where you are going with it. Slick stuff IMO.
#3
Pro
Are you using their spray gun? I highly recommend it for easiest application.
Here is mine after spraying the Lizard Skin, sound and ceramic heat product, I really liked how it turned out.
ikwhite
Here is mine after spraying the Lizard Skin, sound and ceramic heat product, I really liked how it turned out.
ikwhite
Last edited by ikwhite; 07-17-2011 at 12:35 AM.
#5
Drifting
ikwhite, did you use any other insulator/ heat blocker besides lizard skin and how did it work out for you in the heat? I am thinking of using it both inside and underneath and just then factory jute inside.
#6
Pro
Milo I also bought one of the cheap precut insulation kits, but it's more to replace the jute backing than anything and add some cushion. I figure the extra protection wont hurt either. I sprayed both the inside and outside of my project with the ceramic insulation and sound deadener, but remember if you go to top coat Lizard Skin you need to use something flexible enough, or it will crack. I sprayed the complete underside and halfway up the outside firewall, then sanded the firewall and then top coated the whole underside and firewall. I believe if you just sprayed the inside it will make a big enough difference to make it worth while, as long as your heating system is working properly and not pumping in heat through the vents . I have not had a chance to fully test this particular project in the heat, but I am confident it will work out well and there will be no more wringing out of the socks after driving this car.
Also if you are going to spray the outside, I would not do so without the use of the Lizard Skin Spray Gun, been there tried that.
Some pictures of My Lizard Skin application inside and out can be found in my Profile Album and through out the forum.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/album.php?albumid=12066
ikwhite
Also if you are going to spray the outside, I would not do so without the use of the Lizard Skin Spray Gun, been there tried that.
Some pictures of My Lizard Skin application inside and out can be found in my Profile Album and through out the forum.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/album.php?albumid=12066
ikwhite
Last edited by ikwhite; 07-20-2011 at 10:33 AM.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
I got it all in this weekend and learned some things along the way.
1. dboz called it right when he said plug the holes. I used a bunch of straws and jammed them into the holes. After I was done I just pulled out the ones I need and stering column supports and brake pedal assy just bolted right in.
2. Well ventilated area means you should put a fan blowing in the car not just be outside. While I was down in the storage compartment area I really didn't feel good. Fan helped a lot.
3. Artificial lighting that I didn't have would have been much better than being in the car port. Bright sun shiny day but hard to see with windshield and rear window blocked off. I finally pulled the paper out of the window and unblocked the back window so I could see better. Got a mess to clean up now but its not that bad.
I followed the instructions in the box and it seemed to work well. Different psi for each part. I didn't notice much of a change in flow volume by adjusting the length of the nozzle or air pressure. The only problem was clean up. It all says water washable it just didn't say that it takes for flaming ever. This is a rough stippled product so it didn't have to be real good. I got better as I went along and finally decided that the back side of my carpet won't be offended by a few globs so I quit worrying about it. When you get those globs they smooth out nicely with your hand. Nooks and Crannies are a real PITA. Trying to get some of them I got it way too thick in the surrounding areas and it drips right off into big globs so at least you know where you messed up. I'm still a long way from driving so I can't say anything about that for awhile. Tonight when I was finished I slammed the door and it sure sounded a lot better. Not the empty hollow ringing anymore. 2 gallons of each product was just a little too much so now when I get get the bottom clean I'll spray whats left underneath. Enjoy the pics.
Bill
1. dboz called it right when he said plug the holes. I used a bunch of straws and jammed them into the holes. After I was done I just pulled out the ones I need and stering column supports and brake pedal assy just bolted right in.
2. Well ventilated area means you should put a fan blowing in the car not just be outside. While I was down in the storage compartment area I really didn't feel good. Fan helped a lot.
3. Artificial lighting that I didn't have would have been much better than being in the car port. Bright sun shiny day but hard to see with windshield and rear window blocked off. I finally pulled the paper out of the window and unblocked the back window so I could see better. Got a mess to clean up now but its not that bad.
I followed the instructions in the box and it seemed to work well. Different psi for each part. I didn't notice much of a change in flow volume by adjusting the length of the nozzle or air pressure. The only problem was clean up. It all says water washable it just didn't say that it takes for flaming ever. This is a rough stippled product so it didn't have to be real good. I got better as I went along and finally decided that the back side of my carpet won't be offended by a few globs so I quit worrying about it. When you get those globs they smooth out nicely with your hand. Nooks and Crannies are a real PITA. Trying to get some of them I got it way too thick in the surrounding areas and it drips right off into big globs so at least you know where you messed up. I'm still a long way from driving so I can't say anything about that for awhile. Tonight when I was finished I slammed the door and it sure sounded a lot better. Not the empty hollow ringing anymore. 2 gallons of each product was just a little too much so now when I get get the bottom clean I'll spray whats left underneath. Enjoy the pics.
Bill
#10
Burning Brakes
Crap, I should have told you to spray some into the wheel wells. I used it there to prevent rock stars in my paint. Should also help keep noise down. I also hit the bottom of the T-tops and got some on the inside of the doors. It was tough getting it all used up so I spread it around in other areas.
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
That getting it all used up is where I am now. Got the doors, up inside the rear window surround, around the rear deck. I shot everything I could get the gun near. T-tops have been dismantled and I've been scrubbing the bottom tunnel area. Might take me a bit but I'll get there.
Bill
Bill
#12
Drifting
You can buy the ceramic stuff in lizard skin itself and not pay to ship paint. I think enough to make 5 gallons cost me $49 plus shipping. Just need to pick up a flexable paint and mixit yourself.
I'm going to use it in semi flat black under the cabin and firewall, in the cabin and the inside of the doors on the door skins. Then the insulation.
I'm going to use it in semi flat black under the cabin and firewall, in the cabin and the inside of the doors on the door skins. Then the insulation.