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Can you guys look over a '72 I'm thinking of getting?

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Old 08-27-2011, 10:04 AM
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jdp6000
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Originally Posted by medic1555
Well, I went to Carlisle yesterday for my first ever Corvettes at Carlisle. What an event! Man, if you were looking for a used part this plaace had to have it. I wasn't looking for parts though. I went to the Corvette Corrall to look for a used Vette. There were plenty there and some really nice cars. Unfortunately, all the nice cars were way out of my price range.
I was mostly looking for a '75-'81 car. I use the 'For Sale" forum here along with CraigsList and eBay as my bench mark for price vs condition. I gotta say, there were a bunch of project cars at the same price or higher that what guys on here are asking for Vettes in very nice condition. Seemed most were over priced.

I'm going to take a good look at this 1972 Vette. I'm going to give it the benifit of doubt and see it in person. I'm going to drive it and take my time and really inspect it. If it appears to have been neglected the I'm going to take a pass. There are 2 Vettes listed on here that appear to be in super condition. Unfortunately, they are both many hours from my home. But, I may bite the bullet and just take a lillte trip...

Again, Thank you for all the input. I think discussions like this are very valuable.
I would take a serious close look at it. At least its local to you and you can examine it.

I don't really see anything seriously wrong based on the information he gave you.

Looks like it has Air Conditioning too.

Take it for a drive. Don't worry about the cabin heat. Just watch the temp guage for the engine, thats all that counts. If it Runs well, idles well, shifts well and does not smoke mechanically its fine. If you are worried get it checked.

As for the body and frame. make sure the panels all line up. Examine the frame around the window and down where the doors hinge for rust. It should be solid, a little surface rust is not big deal. Look at the frame underneath for soft spots, look for a solid frame.

If all the above checks out take the trade. Drive and have fun. Make sure you get every original part he has laying around as well.

Looks like the biggest job you will have is changing the heater core which is leaking the anitfreeze. Thats in the car behind the dash on the passengerside. Part is about $80. Your labor is about 4-6 hours and 8 beers. Or you can get a shop to do it for about $400-$500. But beleive me its not a difficult job for you to do.

Dash lights could be the headlight switch or the ground. Switch is easy so is ground. Concern on the ground would be corrosion where it attaches. location of headlight ground is on driver side up above side panel by the break peddle. The grounding point is up about the same height as the first door hinge. Look up there for significant rust.

Jim

Last edited by jdp6000; 08-27-2011 at 10:10 AM.
Old 08-27-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
I would take a serious close look at it. At least its local to you and you can examine it.

I don't really see anything seriously wrong based on the information he gave you.

Looks like it has Air Conditioning too.

Take it for a drive. Don't worry about the cabin heat. Just watch the temp guage for the engine, thats all that counts. If it Runs well, idles well, shifts well and does not smoke mechanically its fine. If you are worried get it checked.

As for the body and frame. make sure the panels all line up. Examine the frame around the window and down where the doors hinge for rust. It should be solid, a little surface rust is not big deal. Look at the frame underneath for soft spots, look for a solid frame.

If all the above checks out take the trade. Drive and have fun. Make sure you get every original part he has laying around as well.

Looks like the biggest job you will have is changing the heater core which is leaking the anitfreeze. Thats in the car behind the dash on the passengerside. Part is about $80. Your labor is about 4-6 hours and 8 beers. Or you can get a shop to do it for about $400-$500. But beleive me its not a difficult job for you to do.

Dash lights could be the headlight switch or the ground. Switch is easy so is ground. Concern on the ground would be corrosion where it attaches. location of headlight ground is on driver side up above side panel by the break peddle. The grounding point is up about the same height as the first door hinge. Look up there for significant rust.

Jim

Thanks Jim! All good advise. These forums are a wealth of information and priceless to someone like me who is new to classic cars. I remember when I was 19 and bought my first Harley and all the mistakes I made and the number of time I was taken. Years later I'm older (much older) and wiser. Now I know what to look for and what questions to ask. The same is going to be true with Corvettes only hopefully with the assistance of the internet and these forums I won't get taken as many times.
I'm pretty handy with tools but I have to admit that outside of replacing a water pump or the hubs on my 4x4 pickup, I haven't done a ton of car work. Motorcycle repair is a piece of cake when compared to cars. So I say...let the games begin! Thanks for all the encourgagment. I'll be around asking lots and lots of questions. Hopefully you all will not tire of it.
Old 08-27-2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by medic1555
Thanks Jim! All good advise. These forums are a wealth of information and priceless to someone like me who is new to classic cars. I remember when I was 19 and bought my first Harley and all the mistakes I made and the number of time I was taken. Years later I'm older (much older) and wiser. Now I know what to look for and what questions to ask. The same is going to be true with Corvettes only hopefully with the assistance of the internet and these forums I won't get taken as many times.
I'm pretty handy with tools but I have to admit that outside of replacing a water pump or the hubs on my 4x4 pickup, I haven't done a ton of car work. Motorcycle repair is a piece of cake when compared to cars. So I say...let the games begin! Thanks for all the encourgagment. I'll be around asking lots and lots of questions. Hopefully you all will not tire of it.
This is fun work. The technology is basic. You need a solid foundation, engine, transmission, straight body and solid frame. All else can be fixed easily. Just make sure of the things mentioned. You want to be able to drive it while you fix it.

Jim
Old 08-27-2011, 10:47 AM
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other than unfixable rust (frame, birdcage) I always look at how the rear wheels sit.
If they lean in on the tops there is worn rear end parts that probably has to have a shop work on for you.
Unless the brake calipers are brand new expect to start replacing them until all new.
This is time consuming but its something you can do yourself.
I have replaced two of mine so far and one of the others is new looking and the last one looks good?.
Otherwise the engine and trans are just cheapo Chevrolet.
Interior is all replaceable from parts catologs.
A corvette is a pretty fun puzzle to put together because when your done with a project on a vette you have actually done something productive.
Old 08-27-2011, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim H
other than unfixable rust (frame, birdcage) I always look at how the rear wheels sit.
If they lean in on the tops there is worn rear end parts that probably has to have a shop work on for you.
Unless the brake calipers are brand new expect to start replacing them until all new.
This is time consuming but its something you can do yourself.
I have replaced two of mine so far and one of the others is new looking and the last one looks good?.
Otherwise the engine and trans are just cheapo Chevrolet.
Interior is all replaceable from parts catologs.
A corvette is a pretty fun puzzle to put together because when your done with a project on a vette you have actually done something productive.
Thanks Tim! Good advise on the rear wheels, I'll add that to the list. What's an average cost for a replacement caliper? I would guess the lines should be done at the same time too since bleeding will need to be done.
Old 08-27-2011, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by medic1555
Thanks Tim! Good advise on the rear wheels, I'll add that to the list. What's an average cost for a replacement caliper? I would guess the lines should be done at the same time too since bleeding will need to be done.
Calipers are out $150 each. But look at your pictures, the calipers look new or freshly painted.

Jim
Old 08-27-2011, 11:59 AM
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A note about trading one vehicle for another.. NADA gives DEALER pricing (NADA stands for National Auto Dealers Association) and as such is WORTHLESS as a pricing guide. But it does give accurate dealer pricing, and is thus not so bad to give you a gut-feel for RELATIVE pricing between a trade. If NADA says your bike is worth $18,000 and a particular Vette is worth about $15,000, then though you can't really say either vehicle is worth that much (unless you are selling it through a dealer - and even then it's 'list' pricing) you can pretty accurately say that the difference is somewhere around $3,000. Drop that down about 15% if you think your bike would sell for more like 15,000 (that would make NADA 15% too high), and a difference of $2550 is pretty fair.

I didn't look up any price for a Corvette so don't take $2550 as a real number. I made that up off the top of my head just to show how you can use NADA to do a trade. But the technique is sound. NADA is worthless for private party pricing, but it's not a bad guide to use for relative pricing in a trade where you are more concerned with the difference in value between two items than with the absolute value for either item.

Just my two cents... It might be a bit controversial since most people have nothing but disdain for NADA, but I try to check my emotions at the door when I do a sale, and I'll use whatever tools work. NADA for relative pricing between two different items isn't a bad start.
Old 08-27-2011, 02:28 PM
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I think eBay is a better gauge of vehicle values. Cars are presented to a national audience for their take on what it's worth to them. In the end itsn't that what the true value of something is...what someone is willing to pay? I watch that show called Anique Road Show and some of the items they price at tens of thousands of dollars, I wouldn't give $10. eBay is a daily auction that truly has the feel of the American pulse when it comes to values. That said, I think their fees are rediculous, but they are the only game in town.

NADA and Kelly Blue Book are only good as a starting point and maybe as a comparative tool as you suggested.
Old 08-27-2011, 02:48 PM
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http://york.craigslist.org/cto/2560308933.html

This car is in my hometown. I don't know anything about it other than from the pictures and the hood is wrong. It's cheaper than the one you looked at but that may not be a good thing. Just thought I would help out.

Sorry didn't see the glassed over gills until I looked again.

Last edited by cknorr28; 08-27-2011 at 02:51 PM.
Old 08-27-2011, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cknorr28
http://york.craigslist.org/cto/2560308933.html

This car is in my hometown. I don't know anything about it other than from the pictures and the hood is wrong. It's cheaper than the one you looked at but that may not be a good thing. Just thought I would help out.

Sorry didn't see the glassed over gills until I looked again.
It's cheaper because it needs a $4-$7000 paint job and roughly $1500 in new interior. Not that good a deal
Old 08-27-2011, 03:09 PM
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Autozone has calipers around $65 a piece, i just bought two a couple of weeks a go.
NADA= POOP!!!!!
Ebay is what cars are selling for, if someone is closer you probably get a deal in person.
Old 08-27-2011, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim H
Autozone has calipers around $65 a piece, i just bought two a couple of weeks a go.
NADA= POOP!!!!!
Ebay is what cars are selling for, if someone is closer you probably get a deal in person.
The problem with using eBay is that you can only see the actual sales price on some cars, and even then to get a real feel for the market you have to look at composite numbers (mean, standard deviation, etc.) to get a feel for the market. Individual sales are all over the map - individually, they tell you nothing about what the next sale will be...
Old 08-27-2011, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wgarneau
The problem with using eBay is that you can only see the actual sales price on some cars, and even then to get a real feel for the market you have to look at composite numbers (mean, standard deviation, etc.) to get a feel for the market. Individual sales are all over the map - individually, they tell you nothing about what the next sale will be...
Absolutely! Hit the nail square on the head.
Old 08-27-2011, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cknorr28
http://york.craigslist.org/cto/2560308933.html

This car is in my hometown. I don't know anything about it other than from the pictures and the hood is wrong. It's cheaper than the one you looked at but that may not be a good thing. Just thought I would help out.

Sorry didn't see the glassed over gills until I looked again.
Hey, thanks for the lead but she looks pretty rough. New paint and interior would be costly I bet. But I do appreciate the link...always open to other options.
Old 08-28-2011, 01:56 PM
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$8000 for a 1972 Corvette. For those who think these cars are special they sure have pitiful value. I am not sure where you guys live, but the only car that I can get into that is pre 1972 and not a total heap is a Chevy Nova or a BUICK or something. An early C3 Corvette in my area at $8k is going to be a massive project car. Just saying, this car at the price, looks like a respectable driver. If I owned it, I would consider $8k a total insult. Everyone has an opinion and I just wish I knew where you guys find owners with nice early C3's for under $10k!!!!????
Old 08-28-2011, 05:29 PM
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Just found out that the car was originally red. It was painted Nissan Blue (same as a 350Z)...boy talk about sacrilege!
Old 08-28-2011, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by medic1555
Just found out that the car was originally red. It was painted Nissan Blue (same as a 350Z)...boy talk about sacrilege!
I dont want to insult you but you are naive about these cars,the first car is nice if there is no rust,i would say 15,000 for it would be a fair price if everything is in ok shape.the paint isnt that bad,most older vettes will have couple coats of paint ,i would say thats normal with these cars.And if you find one that has good paint, you will pay for it.I would offer him less and he will counter and see where is goes,you might be surprised,he may let it go cheap,you never know unless you give it a try.A metal bumper car will cost money,and in driver shape like that one isnt bad.

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Old 08-28-2011, 05:48 PM
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I wasn't complaining (nor naive) about the paint, just the choice of colors. When I was in my 20's (some years ago), there was a hugh rivelry between Z owners and Vette owners. To see one painted the same color as "the ememy" was ironic to say the least. Not sure if that rivelry continues today.
Old 08-28-2011, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by medic1555
I wasn't complaining (nor naive) about the paint, just the choice of colors. When I was in my 20's (some years ago), there was a hugh rivelry between Z owners and Vette owners. To see one painted the same color as "the ememy" was ironic to say the least. Not sure if that rivelry continues today.
My car was originally gold and the owner before me painted it targa blue,i dont like gold and i would have had it repainted anyway,but my car has 2 coats.If the paint was done right and does not show different colors anywhere ,to me thats ok for a driver.I not putting you down or anything just trying to let you know that car might be a good grab for you.
Old 08-28-2011, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Billysvette
I not putting you down or anything just trying to let you know that car might be a good grab for you.
I am definately leaning that way. Going to meet the seller on Friday and taka a look at it. I personaly like the color.


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