More horn questions...with pics
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
More horn questions...with pics
Been working on the horn issue of my '72 and I think I may have more than one problem.
Got a couple of questions and pics.
First question: Is this my horns relay? Located on the drivers side fender wall, next to the master cylinder. I unhooked the black wire connector and the green wire connector from the bottom of this relay.
Next question: My horn contact button is missing 2 of the plastic rivets. Is there any other alternatives to replace these then the OEM ones I will have to order at $8.00? Or, should I just replace the whole contact button at $22.00?
Next question: Is there only one horn on the 1972 Vettes? I can only locate one at the front, center just inside the grill.
Last question: I removed the one horn from the car. I ran a wire from a 12 v battery (+) to the spade connection on the horn and then ran another wire from the bracket hole to the (-) terminal of the battery. No sound. Bad horn?
Got a couple of questions and pics.
First question: Is this my horns relay? Located on the drivers side fender wall, next to the master cylinder. I unhooked the black wire connector and the green wire connector from the bottom of this relay.
Next question: My horn contact button is missing 2 of the plastic rivets. Is there any other alternatives to replace these then the OEM ones I will have to order at $8.00? Or, should I just replace the whole contact button at $22.00?
Next question: Is there only one horn on the 1972 Vettes? I can only locate one at the front, center just inside the grill.
Last question: I removed the one horn from the car. I ran a wire from a 12 v battery (+) to the spade connection on the horn and then ran another wire from the bracket hole to the (-) terminal of the battery. No sound. Bad horn?
#2
Race Director
1. yes
2. better to replace the whole contact, IMHO
3. Pretty sure there is only one
4. unless you did not get a good ground, the horn is probably no good. Double check by making sure you have a clean contact on both.
2. better to replace the whole contact, IMHO
3. Pretty sure there is only one
4. unless you did not get a good ground, the horn is probably no good. Double check by making sure you have a clean contact on both.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you my friend! Any suggestions for a replacement horn if this one proves to be bad?
#5
Race Director
I'm not liking the quality of the new contacts.
You might try banging that horn around a bit,sometimes they need a little encouragement.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
So just drill out the OEM rivets, take it apart, clean it, put new rivets back in?
#7
Race Director
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Oh, I thought you were referring to the horn...got cha! Anyway, I beat the horn around like a step child and still no sound when I bench test it. I drilled out the rivets (like I thought you meant) and the inside was rusted beyond repair. What's a good source for a new horn?
#9
I went though 3 'new' horn button assemblies before getting a good one. The problem is where they're made. You can get them at any of the large corvette parts houses. The C3 horn design was the real bad bad bad! I would love to whip the designers like a step child!
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Yea, seems like a pretty involved system to simply complete a circuit to the horn. Maybe they hadn't learned the KISS concept when they designed that system.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I replaced the horn today and if I wire it directly to 12v it works. Now I think the relay may be defective. Shouldn't I have 12v at the little brass plates in the steering column? I have nothing right now so I suspect a bad relay. Ordered one today, boy are they pricey.
#12
Race Director
I replaced the horn today and if I wire it directly to 12v it works. Now I think the relay may be defective. Shouldn't I have 12v at the little brass plates in the steering column? I have nothing right now so I suspect a bad relay. Ordered one today, boy are they pricey.
(and its not the type that seeks ground and might read 12v with a voltmeter)
Hook your relay back up and leave the black wire off,now ground the spade the black wire was hooked to-horn should blow if relay is good.
To check the black wire coming from the horn switch in the column,use your ohm meter between the black wire and ground-you should continuity when you press the horn button.
( I use a 12v test light for this test but most guys don't have them so I don't bother to post it)
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
#14
Race Director
Sometimes you can remove the can and clean the points and save the relay.
#15
Melting Slicks
i replaced the plastic rivets in my contact button after 2 broke, with plastic screws and nuts i got at home depot. put a little glue on the threads to premanently hold em.
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
I pulled the green wire from the relay and touched it to the threaded stud aand the horn works that way. When I get the new one I'll try cleaning the old one and keep it as a spare if possible. Thanks for the great input!!!