AllC34Me

I have two C-3 Corvettes, one a 71 Coupe, one a 77 Coupe. I am interested in learning about any C-3 owner experiences, both good and bad, with trailering thier cars.
Open trailer issues and benefits?
Enclosed trailer issues and benefits?
What you would change if you could about trailering your car?
I am considering a trailer this fall now that I have a Silverado 2500HD with a 6.6 liter deisel engine big enough to pull a trailer comfortably so I am looking at options now.
Please share your thoughts and thank you for your help.
David Howard
AllC34Me

KanuckZ06

I have used both methods to trailer my corvettes and would state that an enclosed trailer is best for the following reasons.

1. Security, More theft proof if they can't see it, saves small items from being removed such as center caps ect.

2. Weather, Protection from the elements.

3. Paint Protection, saves from major clean ups from bug strikes, road gritt and stone chips.

I use my 07 Chev Dually with a Duramax 6.6/Allison and tow a V-Nose trailer to cut down on wind resistance, no worries trailering!

What ever trailer you buy, make sure it has brakes on all axles, electric brakes are best, you can control them better than surge brakes, if you will be in hilly areas, consider a exhaust brake as well, you can never have to much brakes on hand!

When you spec out your truck, unless it's a dually, get the 4:10 axle ratio, you'll thank me later

palmbeachvette76

I don't own a trailer but have trailered my '76 from Alabama to south Florida and a few other times in state to the body shop and a show. I rented a U-Haul trailer each time and didn't know the car was behind me. Their trailers are well built and ride great for an open trailer.

I own a 2004 Chevrolet Avlanche Z66 (2WD)

noonie

I've owned several over the years, one of which was enclosed.
By far the best is my current that is an open hydraulic tilt trailer.
It has a full diamond plate deck, with a hand hydraulic pump, no need for finger pinching ramps. Loading etc is a piece of cake. It has front wheel chocks that are movable with two bolts each and both fenders are removable with a large t-bolt (no tools needed). I've also been able to haul an extended cab pickup with it as it is as wide as the law allows.
I pull with a 3/4 van, so tarps, tools etc are not an issue.
Trailered from S Florida to northern Minnesota before with no issues.
Make sure it has brakes on each axle, required by most states.
If possible, test drive, with trailer, some are terrible, I can literally run onto the shoulder at 70mph and still feel safe.

builder

I would get an enclosed trailer for the simple reasoning that I want the car to be clean when I get there, and security. Out of site out of mind.

I would also put "Mabel's Knitting Supplies" on the side of the trailer.

I can't see many old ladies breaking into a trailer to steal knitting supplies, and it might deter most thieves if they believe the sign has anything to do with the contents.

69Vett

I have used both open and closed, and would only choose an enclosed,
mostly for Security, Protection and peace of mind.
I don't want anyone snooping around my trailer at 3:00am, while I am sleeping!
the biggest negative with an enclosed is what to do with it when your not using it.
they are large, and not welcome in some neighborhoods .... (Home Owners Associations.).

htown81vette

I towed my C3 over 500 miles with this trailer:



I had no issues whatsoever. I've got my f-body drag car on it in that picture. But it will tow the C3 no problem. No problems getting it on or off the trailer either. I have to sometimes put a 1" thick board under the ramp to help get (both my f-body or the vette) on up the ramp without scraping the front end. But other than that it goes right on. The open trailers are cheaper, but the enclosed trailers add more security, like if you have to stay over night. I rarely need to stay overnight when towing, but if I did, I would want an enclosed trailer. That one picture is an all steel floor, cost me roughly $2200 brand new. I am very happy with it. An enclosed trailer will cost you about 7k and up...

htown81vette

I've got mine stored offsite, cost roughly 45 bucks a month for the lot which is by far the cheapest around Houston. Would be a good idea for the OP to shop around here on storage before taking the plunge.

shrekviper

I trailered my '69 from VA to AZ last summer on a Uhaul car hauler behind my '03 2500 Duramax. I put padlocks on the safety chains from the trailer to the truck and from the trailer to the car. Towed great! This was the most economical way for me to do it. I don't trailer a lot so I didn't look into buying one. If security and protection are top on the list, go enclosed ($$$). You won't have a problem w/ your diesel, they're great.

Alan 71

Hi David,
I hope I'm not stealing your thread!
What is the preferred method for 'strapping' the car to the trailer?
Regards,
Alan

htown81vette

You can just get some trailer straps at autozone, then wrap them around something solid like the frame on your C3, then there should be an eye hook on the trailer, just snap the strap onto the eye hook and your done!

Gordonm

I have always used heavy duty ratchet straps in a cross pattern. Driven a few miles like this and the car is rock solid.

David, An enclosed trailer is the way to go to protect the car and give it some security also. The only reason for not getting one would be economics or the ability to store the trailer. BUT you can always use the trailer for an extra garage space! With all your vehicles that could be a bonus.

Alan 71

Hi 81,
Thanks, I understand.
Hi Gordonm
What do you hook the straps to on the car in your method?
Thanks very much.
Regards,
Alan

Gordonm

On the front I wrap them around the lower control arm. I have tubular control arms so this makes it quite easy. On the rear I have a dual mount spring so I wrapped it around the dual mounts. These are quite beefy so it is real secure that way. I know others do not have this setup so it would not work on their cars. This is not much help for the average Corvette owner.

69Vett

they make tire Bonnet straps, which strap down the car by each tire, no strap or hook marks anywhere.
this also allows the car suspension to do its thing going down the road.
strapping the frame down can create cosmetic damage.

Another bonus with enclosed, you get secure storage for your car with no worries from accidents in the family garage,
like kids, bikes,trash cans,..opps.

1976 corvette

Used U-haul a few time before buying my own. From Ohio to Charlotte. From Virginia beach to Charlotte.








From Charlotte to Close to Virginia beach and back.




From Charlotte to Valdosta Georgia and back all in a day. I rapped a chain through the two lower control arms and then hook it to the front. Then use a 9000 lb ratchet to to pull it backward. The vette will never move but I only do it on parts cars. I don't want to though of the alignment.





Only regret is not buying a trailer sooner. This trailer has enough drag as is so enclosed would kill my mpg's but you had a Duramax so it's your call.

TimAT

I have an enclosed trailer- 24', rear door is the ramp, so no pinched fingers (unless a door cable breaks). Pulling it with an '01 GMC Duramax dually. If I had to do it again, I'd go with a 30'+ gooseneck. With that I could easily take the Harley AND the Vette.

Paul Borowski

...I have hauled 5 C3s this way for probably over 10K miles to all the Carlisles, Bloomingtons, NCRS shows over the last 18yrs that I've trailered to with this set-up.

noonie

For stability a dually and a gooseneck are the perfect setup, a mini semi.

Here is a car being pulled up the tilt trailer. One advantage of the bed being completely flat, you can load with long pipe or steel and overhang is no problem. It does have some stake pockets if you want sides or stakes.



Here are the slots in the frame (first pic not mine) that they use when shipping from the factory. It loads the suspension a bit so the car doesn't bounce around.









The straps are rated at 10,000lbs each and also have kevlar wraps on one end and a hook loop if you want to wrap something like an a arm. This was just a short 1 mile ride, so I just went thru the lower a arm.

texaswilkins

I have an 18 foot long Sloan KwikLoad with a 9,000 lb winch in the front. It's by far the best flat bed trailer I have ever pulled. The bed slides backwards about 6 feet to make loading easier. Since the whole bed slides back instead of a 5 foot ramp attached to the end of the bed I end up with about a 12 foot ramp behind the wheels. There are no clearance issues. My trailer fits under everything and some cars we have just pushed on the trailer because of the low loading angle. I use those same hooks from a couple of posts above and the same four strap crossing pattern most guys use. Strap it down then check it everytime you stop.

Whatever kind of trailer you get remember that a car hauler and an 18 foot utility trailer are not the same thing. Car Haulers are more expensive because they are tougher. Decide what length trailer you want then buy the next longer one. 16 foot is just barely long enough for a vette. 18 handles most cars but not a tractor and brush hog. Bigger is better. I prefer an open trailer so you can easily check security to the trailer. I'm paranoid of losing something. Never have but I keep checking.

Since you have a diesel tow vehicle here are some other thoughts. NEVER let it smoke. That's sxxt is a PITA to wash off afterwards. If you put a cover on the car and the truck smokes it's even worse to wash off. I had an air dam to keep soot off the car but didn't like the way it felt. Seemed like more wind resistance. Maybe just my mind but I didn't like it. That diesel truck can pull far more than it can stop. Make sure you have a working trailer brake. GM put a fake fuse in the main box for the brake controller. Make sure yours has been replaced before you think you have trailer brakes.

Bill