Frankenvette

I've searched the forum and have read several threads but still not sure of the exact procedure for removal of coil springs. I was going to remove by separating the lower ball joint but the cotter pin is rusted and broke off inside the ball joint. As a result I can't remove the castle nut.

Now I need to remove by separating the upper ball joint. I've pulled the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut some on the upper ball joint (about halfway off). I've pounded with a ball joint fork but it won't release. Do I need to jack up on the lower control arm first or just keep banging away on the upper joint?

Once I break free, do I simply jack up the lower control arm, remove the castle nut on the upper ball joint and then slowly lower the jack? I have a chain around the coil spring and have a threaded rod thru the spring as well that can be used as a spring compressor if needed.

Thanks,

Jim

'Bochawa72

I had a similar problem with the cotter pins. I was able to get them loose but not out. I ended up cutting the rounded end and pulling the ends out one at a time. For the ball joint I jacked up the lower arm and banged away. Make sure the end of the fork isn't hitting the frame, I had to jack it high enough so the fork was clearing the frame and then it popped right out. Others told me to whack the upper arm of the spindle on the side with a small sledge and it would pop right off. Didn't work for me as I couldn't seem to get enough room for a good backswing.

Once it's free I aligned the jack so I was able to slowly lower it while standing in front of the car out of the way. Jack it up, remove the castle nut the rest of the way, stand clear and go slow, good luck!

And I did it without a compressor, just make sure the car is high enough off the ground that the lower control arm will swing far enough open to pull the coil out.

jnb5101

use a safety chain. there's a lot of energy stored in even a slightly compressed spring.

Sunstroked

Got any penetrating oil? I usually spray the parts down liberally with it before doing any work on parts such as this, and let it soak a bit. Yes, if you hit the spindle with a BFH where the ball joint shaft goes thru it, then it will usually release. So keeping the nut on partially is a good idea. Sometimes I will need to use the fork too. Get 3 or 4 lb drilling hammer, a 1 lb ball peen isnt enough wt. If you succeed in getting the upper loose, then you can then carefully lower the control arm to remove the spring. I like to use a spring compressor as its safer. You can rent them from auto zone or checker and get your money back on the rental if returned in the condition you rented it. As for the lower joint, the cotter pins are usually a soft material, even if sheared you can usually still get the nut off. I know my lowers were a pain in the butt with the 72 and took a lot of whacking with a BFH and a pickle fork to finally get it out of the spindle.

jordan89

Definitely use a chain.

my 76 ray

I always take the castle nut all the way off, then put it back on a few turns. If you get the stud free from the spindle and the nut is rusty, it will just spin the joint.

corvetteload

even though you snapped the cotter pin, you should be able to get the nut off past it, the nut is far tougher material than the cotter pin!!! Get it apart and spring out then worry about removing the cotter pin, usually comes right out, or worst case run a drill bit through the hole.

Frankenvette

Thanks for the replies. Good to be back working on the vette after 10 months away. I'll hit this project this weekend between college football games. Just installed a mini-fridge in the garage and stocked it full of beer so this will be a great weekend project.

Easy Mike

Rent a spring compressor. Use it.

Trust me.

1976 corvette

Here is what I did. But I guess it is a little different then having the body on the car.

http://mycorvetterestoration.com/196...nd_removal.php

PUNISHER VETTE

1. Never use a pickle fork...it just tears up the boot and there are far easier methods.
Much easier to take a 5lb hammer and hit the loop that the ball joint goes through and it'll pop right off. You have to hit it hard though. and make sure your nut is still on the threads some or when it goes the suspension will drop and that spring might be coming at you.

Search Google for Ball joint removal and one of the first few videos will be of this technique and believe me it works. If not i'll post a vid when not at work.


2. I find the old stock springs to be like an adult Jack in the Box. I used a jack under the lower control arm and lowered it as far as it would go and the spring still wouldn't pop out of the socket. I think I ended up unbolting the 3 bolts on the lower arm and got it to finally release.

I think I tried renting a spring compressor and couldn't really get it to fit in there very well. If you're putting the old springs back in you'll have to find some way to compress them and then still be able to get the compressor out after they're in place. I just bought 500# new springs that were much shorter and go in easy!

mikejpss

good advice from Mike
AutoZone will rent it to you for free, just leave a refundable deposit, keep it for a few days.

noonie

Most find that out too late.

Frankenvette

I've got the 5/8 all thread rod in there as a spring compressor plus a chain wrapped around the spring just in case.

Punishervette: Thanks for the info. I went to autozone last night to rent a balljoint fork and the guy behind the counter suggested this method instead of the balljoint fork. I'm going to give it a try.

PUNISHER VETTE

This video shows it in the first minute or so. Basically like the guy says.

You just hit the knuckle to "shock it". If it hasn't bee done in a while you might REALLY have to whack at it. They say it's not the best for your knuckle but if it breaks doing this it probably had a problem before anyway.

damoroso

To remove the spring, (assuming the shock is already removed) loosen the upper ball joint nut a few turns, with the steering turned all the way towards the other side of the car, you'll see a pad on the steering knuckle where the ball joint goes through it. Hit the knuckle there with a few good hits the spring tension will help separate it, and by not removing the nut (really only loosen it so you still have the ball joint stud sticking through the nut) the spring can't go any where. Once it pops loose, jack up the lower arm with a floor jack and reverse what I did here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-easy-now.html

milo30

youtube is your friend. I removed my springs and pretty much knew how but wasn't sure that I was doing it in a safe manner. Went to youtube and watched a video or two and it was easy. Reassuring to see what you are about to do before you do it.

leadfoot4

Been there, done that...many times!