I'm kinda down...Thought I'd post...Has anyone been here? What did you do?...
02-09-2012, 07:50 AM
#41
Drifting
Sell it, and buy a better one in better condition that you have now...point blank period.
You have 6k saved up, even with just that you can find an non-rusted c3 in decent condition! I wouldn't sink any more into it...let someone that can handle a huge resto deal with those problems
You have 6k saved up, even with just that you can find an non-rusted c3 in decent condition! I wouldn't sink any more into it...let someone that can handle a huge resto deal with those problems
02-09-2012, 09:04 AM
#42
Melting Slicks
The rust at the #2 drivers side mount is what would concern me the most. It can be a difficult area to fix, depends on facilities you have available and your skills with bodywork, welding... From the photos the windshield frame doesn't look that bad but there's a lot you can't see until you pull the trim, inside and outside. The rust in the #2 mount makes me wonder if the car has been leaking water from inside the windshield frame down into the mount pocket. If this is what was happening, there are more problems with the windshield frame waiting to be found. On a small budget, only way to fix the rust is to do it yourself. It will cost you a fortune to have a shop fix it. I've seen MUCH worse than this, owners fixed up quite nicely. Took a lot of time and skill.
If you don't have a lot of time or skills to take on this job I'd have to agree with others, best to move on to another, learn from this one. If you can hook up with someone local who has expertise on C3's, they may be able to give you a more complete appraisal, more confidence in what ever decision you make? Wish I could tell you what we see isn't a big deal, I know the feeling having owned a few rusted Mustangs back in the day which weren't worth saving. Finally bought one from California, rust free.
I'm sure things will work out for you...
If you don't have a lot of time or skills to take on this job I'd have to agree with others, best to move on to another, learn from this one. If you can hook up with someone local who has expertise on C3's, they may be able to give you a more complete appraisal, more confidence in what ever decision you make? Wish I could tell you what we see isn't a big deal, I know the feeling having owned a few rusted Mustangs back in the day which weren't worth saving. Finally bought one from California, rust free.
I'm sure things will work out for you...
02-10-2012, 08:21 PM
#43
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Does anyone have a rough guess of worth? 3k?, 4k? a little more? It's reliable, and I still regularly drive it to work 20 miles roundtrip.
And assuming there's rust up there like the pics indicate, an guess on what a frame shop might charge to repair it? 2k? 3k?...just to get to good, solid driver quality.
The car just doesn't seem like a basket case. And I'm starting to try little things I can do to make it presentable to sell. I'm getting mad with myself for what I could have done over the past few years.
I spent an hour working on one wheel. I think another 30 mins will have it beautiful, but it's already far enough to make me ashamed of myself. the shiny one actually looked worse than the one next to it, which is fresh from the wash too.
And assuming there's rust up there like the pics indicate, an guess on what a frame shop might charge to repair it? 2k? 3k?...just to get to good, solid driver quality.
The car just doesn't seem like a basket case. And I'm starting to try little things I can do to make it presentable to sell. I'm getting mad with myself for what I could have done over the past few years.
I spent an hour working on one wheel. I think another 30 mins will have it beautiful, but it's already far enough to make me ashamed of myself. the shiny one actually looked worse than the one next to it, which is fresh from the wash too.
02-11-2012, 12:22 AM
#44
Le Mans Master
I think you should put up a few pictures of the whole car so everyone can get an idea of what the car looks like. Then maybe someone can get accurate on the direction to go.
A mint car with rusted birdcage, maybe spend the money.
A dog with rusted birdcage, then sell and take what you can get.
Just be honest in selling, because it isn't right to get someone else snared in this kind of trap.
I was reading it all in the first of the thread, but got to skimming over much in the last page and a half. But I gather your job is gone, you have $6000 to work on the car, your funds are probably better spent elsewhere, your skills are limited, your desire is limited, and your work space is very limited.
What I would do in your place is this.
Clean it all up as much as possible, make the car look as good as you can.
Put it up for sale as soon as it begins to get warm but be honest about the birdcage. Don't start out that it is rusted out and going to cost thousands, but when someone really shows an interest, be sure they know about the rust. There will be a lot of lookers; be honest to those who might actually buy.
Take that money, and put it in savings along with the $6000 until you have another job. An '80 is an OK car but not enough to kill yourself over. I mean, a friend has an '80 as his driver, while his '66 sits in the garage, and it is a very nice car, but there are a lot of nice '80s out there. And '81s and '82s that are nearly the same, so it isn't like if you let this '80 go, you will never have another.
Once you get a job, then buy another. You are much more educated and when you are looking, you know the first place to look before buying.
Yes, it is a bummer, but it isn't the end of the world.
A mint car with rusted birdcage, maybe spend the money.
A dog with rusted birdcage, then sell and take what you can get.
Just be honest in selling, because it isn't right to get someone else snared in this kind of trap.
I was reading it all in the first of the thread, but got to skimming over much in the last page and a half. But I gather your job is gone, you have $6000 to work on the car, your funds are probably better spent elsewhere, your skills are limited, your desire is limited, and your work space is very limited.
What I would do in your place is this.
Clean it all up as much as possible, make the car look as good as you can.
Put it up for sale as soon as it begins to get warm but be honest about the birdcage. Don't start out that it is rusted out and going to cost thousands, but when someone really shows an interest, be sure they know about the rust. There will be a lot of lookers; be honest to those who might actually buy.
Take that money, and put it in savings along with the $6000 until you have another job. An '80 is an OK car but not enough to kill yourself over. I mean, a friend has an '80 as his driver, while his '66 sits in the garage, and it is a very nice car, but there are a lot of nice '80s out there. And '81s and '82s that are nearly the same, so it isn't like if you let this '80 go, you will never have another.
Once you get a job, then buy another. You are much more educated and when you are looking, you know the first place to look before buying.
Yes, it is a bummer, but it isn't the end of the world.
02-11-2012, 06:09 PM
#45
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I actually am working. My job is pretty secure. I appreciate your input. I think I'll clean it up a little and post up some pics. I'll probably do it in another thread though, since this one is poorly titled for what it's about now.
I have a few things to do, like finishing polishing the other 3 wheels, and then I'll come back and ask advice again.
I wanted to thank everyone for input. Even the 'stop whining' posts were what I needed to hear.
I have a few things to do, like finishing polishing the other 3 wheels, and then I'll come back and ask advice again.
I wanted to thank everyone for input. Even the 'stop whining' posts were what I needed to hear.
02-11-2012, 06:12 PM
#46
Drifting
You seem like a good man and all will work out. Looking forward to seeing the pics. Not to put salt on the wound but the wheel you didn't clean up does look better 
02-12-2012, 10:00 AM
#47
Burning Brakes
I think if you are going to keep it then "judging by your pictures" you need to be very concern about the rust issues and address them first before putting a wrench on anything else. To fix the rust problems on your car could easily cost 6K or more depending on how much of it you can fix yourself and how much is there. I'm sorry but if I were looking to buy your car and saw the rust that is shown in your pics, I would pass on it..
Good Luck in whatever you decide...Tim
Good Luck in whatever you decide...Tim
02-12-2012, 10:05 AM
#48
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the one on the left, the one I spent time on, is clearly the better looking wheel.
Last edited by Double_0_7; 02-12-2012 at 11:51 AM.
02-12-2012, 11:05 AM
#49
Burning Brakes
Classic failed restoration. You thought it would be fun to drive and restore an old car. Soon realized you lacked the skill & experience plus the desire to learn. Then car sits around a few years as you polish a wheel. Now you are looking for an excuse to stop the madness. You found one (like Milo), rust. Sell it and don't look back.
02-12-2012, 11:15 AM
#50
Melting Slicks
The wheel cleaned up nicely from what I can tell by the last picture. A lot of the pictures that you posted of rust concerns appeared to be minor surface rust, except for the few showing the heavy flaking areas. Those areas would give any potential buyer second thoughts, if they knew where to look and what they were looking at.
So I gather you have driven the car for at least 2 yrs? MI is very unfriendly to old cars. The rust prevention used by the factories did little to protect metal back then. If you had a place to fix the car up that would be one thing. To repair the rot rust I saw requires an extensive amount of dis-assembly.
I think you would be far underwater on the value of the car if you paid to have the car repaired. Even if it were in excellent condition, the value may not exceed 10-12k. Its just not a real valuable collector model.
Current value? I don't really know, I would not expect to get what you have into it. But, find someone who really loves it and anything is possible. Check current used ads for mid 70's corvettes in your area and price it accordingly.
One thing I learned early in my life regarding fixing up older cars. Pick the right car to stick money into. One that will at least break even if you have to sell it. For instance, my first real project was a highly modified 73 camaro, when I sold it, it was a very nice 73 camaro, not a real Z28. I recouped less than half of what I had in it, but the joy it gave me over the yrs was worth it. Today's economy has not been friendly to classic car pricing, unless it is rare or highly sought after.
So I gather you have driven the car for at least 2 yrs? MI is very unfriendly to old cars. The rust prevention used by the factories did little to protect metal back then. If you had a place to fix the car up that would be one thing. To repair the rot rust I saw requires an extensive amount of dis-assembly.
I think you would be far underwater on the value of the car if you paid to have the car repaired. Even if it were in excellent condition, the value may not exceed 10-12k. Its just not a real valuable collector model.
Current value? I don't really know, I would not expect to get what you have into it. But, find someone who really loves it and anything is possible. Check current used ads for mid 70's corvettes in your area and price it accordingly.
One thing I learned early in my life regarding fixing up older cars. Pick the right car to stick money into. One that will at least break even if you have to sell it. For instance, my first real project was a highly modified 73 camaro, when I sold it, it was a very nice 73 camaro, not a real Z28. I recouped less than half of what I had in it, but the joy it gave me over the yrs was worth it. Today's economy has not been friendly to classic car pricing, unless it is rare or highly sought after.
02-12-2012, 11:48 AM
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Classic failed restoration. You thought it would be fun to drive and restore an old car. Soon realized you lacked the skill & experience plus the desire to learn. Then car sits around a few years as you polish a wheel. Now you are looking for an excuse to stop the madness. You found one (like Milo), rust. Sell it and don't look back.
The wheel cleaned up nicely from what I can tell by the last picture. A lot of the pictures that you posted of rust concerns appeared to be minor surface rust, except for the few showing the heavy flaking areas. Those areas would give any potential buyer second thoughts, if they knew where to look and what they were looking at.
So I gather you have driven the car for at least 2 yrs? MI is very unfriendly to old cars. The rust prevention used by the factories did little to protect metal back then. If you had a place to fix the car up that would be one thing. To repair the rot rust I saw requires an extensive amount of dis-assembly.
I think you would be far underwater on the value of the car if you paid to have the car repaired. Even if it were in excellent condition, the value may not exceed 10-12k. Its just not a real valuable collector model.
Current value? I don't really know, I would not expect to get what you have into it. But, find someone who really loves it and anything is possible. Check current used ads for mid 70's corvettes in your area and price it accordingly.
One thing I learned early in my life regarding fixing up older cars. Pick the right car to stick money into. One that will at least break even if you have to sell it. For instance, my first real project was a highly modified 73 camaro, when I sold it, it was a very nice 73 camaro, not a real Z28. I recouped less than half of what I had in it, but the joy it gave me over the yrs was worth it. Today's economy has not been friendly to classic car pricing, unless it is rare or highly sought after.
So I gather you have driven the car for at least 2 yrs? MI is very unfriendly to old cars. The rust prevention used by the factories did little to protect metal back then. If you had a place to fix the car up that would be one thing. To repair the rot rust I saw requires an extensive amount of dis-assembly.
I think you would be far underwater on the value of the car if you paid to have the car repaired. Even if it were in excellent condition, the value may not exceed 10-12k. Its just not a real valuable collector model.
Current value? I don't really know, I would not expect to get what you have into it. But, find someone who really loves it and anything is possible. Check current used ads for mid 70's corvettes in your area and price it accordingly.
One thing I learned early in my life regarding fixing up older cars. Pick the right car to stick money into. One that will at least break even if you have to sell it. For instance, my first real project was a highly modified 73 camaro, when I sold it, it was a very nice 73 camaro, not a real Z28. I recouped less than half of what I had in it, but the joy it gave me over the yrs was worth it. Today's economy has not been friendly to classic car pricing, unless it is rare or highly sought after.
Last edited by Double_0_7; 02-12-2012 at 11:52 AM.
02-14-2012, 08:33 PM
#53
Melting Slicks
Ok, from the pictures, it appears that the rot is really in the "birdcage" structure. The car has a separate frame from the body structure. The frame is pretty thick and the body sits on top of it, there are 4 bolts on each side of the car that holds the body onto the frame.Take a hard look at the body bolt area that is rotted in your picture. I cannot tell from the pic but if its just the body structure, you could probably drive the car for many yrs with no adverse effect. Its not like a unibody car where the frame is integral with the body. If the door still opens and closes ok without sagging, that would indicate to me that the body is still intact. The windshield post area may leak water, that could probably be sealed to stop any additional leaking. It doesn't have to be pristine to enjoy it.
02-14-2012, 09:45 PM
#54
Pro
I'm not an expert by any means, but judging by what others have said, it will most likely take more $ to repair it than the car will be worth. I'd say you have three options....
1. Sell the car asap. This will get you some money that you can combine with the $6,000 to save up for another C3 (or C5, etc). As long as you're not looking at a 68-72, you should be able to find one in decent condition for around $10k. I've been picking out a daily driver C3 and decided I wanted a 79. I'm seeing that 11k-14k can get you one in very nice condition, even from dealers at that price. (It might be worth it to check into selling the car to a dealer, as they usually have the means to repair the car in house and then resell it. I know J&S Motors is in Indiana [http://www.jsmotors.com]. I've never had any experience with them, but it might be worth looking into.)
2. Drive the car as-is. Keep saving your money to go towards another C3, etc. and drive this one until it gives out, or until you save up enough to get another C3. If something major does break that is unrepairable (or very expensive), there are a lot of money in parts there that, when split up, would be worth more than the car as a whole.
3. Repair the car and keep it alive. You could find a reputable shop (I've had great luck googling "corvette specialists" with whatever city/state I'm in/close to) and at least get a diagnosis on how major the issues are from someone who knows the cars. Then they can try to estimate costs and could work out a plan around your budget, if possible, to keep your car alive and running.
No matter which route you take, I would at least take the car to a shop to get their opinion on how bad/not-so-bad the situation is so that I could then make an informed decision. If you were in a money crunch just a few years ago and have managed to save $6,000 towards the vette already, coming up with another $6,000 for a really nice late C3 shouldn't take too long, and you could keep driving your 80 in the mean time.
Good luck!
1. Sell the car asap. This will get you some money that you can combine with the $6,000 to save up for another C3 (or C5, etc). As long as you're not looking at a 68-72, you should be able to find one in decent condition for around $10k. I've been picking out a daily driver C3 and decided I wanted a 79. I'm seeing that 11k-14k can get you one in very nice condition, even from dealers at that price. (It might be worth it to check into selling the car to a dealer, as they usually have the means to repair the car in house and then resell it. I know J&S Motors is in Indiana [http://www.jsmotors.com]. I've never had any experience with them, but it might be worth looking into.)
2. Drive the car as-is. Keep saving your money to go towards another C3, etc. and drive this one until it gives out, or until you save up enough to get another C3. If something major does break that is unrepairable (or very expensive), there are a lot of money in parts there that, when split up, would be worth more than the car as a whole.
3. Repair the car and keep it alive. You could find a reputable shop (I've had great luck googling "corvette specialists" with whatever city/state I'm in/close to) and at least get a diagnosis on how major the issues are from someone who knows the cars. Then they can try to estimate costs and could work out a plan around your budget, if possible, to keep your car alive and running.
No matter which route you take, I would at least take the car to a shop to get their opinion on how bad/not-so-bad the situation is so that I could then make an informed decision. If you were in a money crunch just a few years ago and have managed to save $6,000 towards the vette already, coming up with another $6,000 for a really nice late C3 shouldn't take too long, and you could keep driving your 80 in the mean time.
Good luck!
