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Rear Swaybar - Poly bushing installation

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Old 04-06-2012, 06:49 PM
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Mooser
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Default Rear Swaybar - Poly bushing installation

Installing the harder poly bushings in the rear swaybar
Old and simple method, but in-case it helps someone

Removed the inner sleeve, greased everything with the poly grease (with dreams of no squeaks down the road)
For the link, 1" socket and the vise, line everything up and they go in quite nice




For the bar it's self
A piece of threaded rod (long bolt with lots of thread would do), one fender washer, one regular washer and the 1" socket





If it starts to move sideways, just press it back in-line with your thumb




Pops in the last little bit




Grease and push the sleeve back in




About 20 minutes playing with the vise, c-clamps, hammers, arbor press
About 1 minute this way

Mooser

Last edited by Mooser; 11-21-2017 at 08:10 PM.
Old 04-06-2012, 09:29 PM
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Mark Riles
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Just curious why you chose poly over rubber. Not criticizing I would just like to know the thought process.
Old 04-06-2012, 10:16 PM
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Mooser
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Well, the poly vs rubber question is right up there with blond vs brunette, small block vs big block, etc. Everyone has an opinion and everyone who disagrees with them is wrong.

Here's my thoughts and how they apply to MY situation.

I'm driving a boulevard creeper that spends most of it's moving life in town or making short trips between towns. I like a smoother ride over a harsh one. That being said I don't want my vette to drive like a couch either.

All bushings that I figure are more directly transmitting vibration, shock, etc to the frame I've gone with rubber. (T/A, Diff mount, Trans mount, Spring cushions, etc)
All bushings that are mainly pivoting I went with Poly (Lower control bars, sway bars, etc, I know the T/A pivot but they also twist and do other things)

The hope being that I get the mushy ride under normal driving and a slightly improved response on the cornering.

If it doesn't work out, I'll got back to rubber on everything.

Mooser
My $.02, actual mileage may very, professional driver on closed course, results not typical

Last edited by Mooser; 04-07-2012 at 05:33 PM.
Old 04-07-2012, 08:48 AM
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69 Chevy
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You should be commended Mooser, for titling this thread in such a way that someone in the future can easily find it by using this forum's SEARCH function.
Old 10-04-2013, 08:20 PM
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Tater 1
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Default It works Great

Installed my poly bushings this evening, thanks to your post. It worked great. Besides your tips, the main thing is to make sure you get everything lined up straight so it doesn't bind as you try to push in. First one went in no problem. Had to fight the second one for a bit but it wasn't over 15 minutes and I had both in. I plan to remove rear sway bar and as I feel this will be MUCH easier with it out. Will paint and grease it since its out. Thank you much.
Here is a photo of my set up .

Old 10-04-2013, 09:43 PM
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Old 10-05-2013, 12:48 AM
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chvet73
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I just did mine this week too in poly. Used a press on the links and the vise on the bar. Worked well. Just added the 1 1/8 front and the 7/16 rear. No rear before and a 7/8 front. On my short test drive I liked the handling difference.

What have you guys found about the handling?
Old 10-05-2013, 02:20 AM
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rogman16
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Originally Posted by Mooser
Well, the poly vs rubber question is right up there with blond vs brunette, small block vs big block, etc. Everyone has an opinion and everyone who disagrees with them is wrong.

Here's my thoughts and how they apply to MY situation.

I'm driving a boulevard creeper that spends most of it's moving life in town or making short trips between towns. I like a smoother ride over a harsh one. That being said I don't want my vette to drive like a couch either.

All bushings that I figure are more directly transmitting vibration, shock, etc to the frame I've gone with rubber. (T/A, Diff mount, Trans mount, Spring cushions, etc)
All bushings that are mainly pivoting I went with Poly (Lower control bars, sway bars, etc, I know the T/A pivot but they also twist and do other things)

The hope being that I get the mushy ride under normal driving and a slightly improved response on the cornering.

If it doesn't work out, I'll got back to rubber on everything.

Mooser
My $.02, actual mileage may very, professional driver on closed course, results not typical
Always great work with visuals and a well thought out explanation for us rookies!!! Thanks much

Rogman
Old 10-05-2013, 08:20 AM
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Mooser
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Originally Posted by chvet73

What have you guys found about the handling?
I changed / updated a bunch of stuff on the rear at the same time (bearings, shocks, u-joints, etc) so it's hard to say what had what effect but I am (was) happy with the changes, seems to have done what I wanted. All that little stuff adds up
M
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:25 AM
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Mooser
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Originally Posted by rogman16
Always great work with visuals and a well thought out explanation for us rookies!!! Thanks much

Rogman
Thanks Rogman, you getting settled in yet?
I've been missing your progress updates here
M

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