Lupigiato

I searched the Forum for answers, but none seemed to exactly address my issue or give any specifics i was looking for, so I created this new post and attached a similar topic from 2010 as reference...

Ive noticed red grease leaking out of my rebuilt steering box on my 68. GTR1999 rebuilt it for the PO in 2006 and used Mobil 1 Synthetic grease. As a matter of routine, whenever I return from a drive, I raise the hood to check for any leaks or issues and always see the red moisture resting on the frame and wipe it off. I was told not to worry about the seeping as it wouldn't completely empty the box. Last week I had the 68 on a lift and noticed an alarming amount of red grease on the undercarriage.

Out of paranoia, I checked the grease level in the box with a q-tip and only the tip was moist. The q-tip didnt seem to go down very far before hitting a shiny metal object less than an inch from the surface. I took a picture of the steering box cover and with the flash you can see what I am talking about, but i dont know what that shiny metal object is.

Here come the dumb questions:

1. How much grease actually resides in the box when filled to the proper capacity? I know there is to be a gap to allow for expansion and pressure. The AIM and Chassis Service Manual doesn't say what the capacity is. Are we talking about 6 oz, a quart?

2. Considering i see the shiny piece and no grease, it appears i need to add more asap. I know i need to fill from the left bolt, but what do i use to inject the grease? Is there a grease gun for a steering box, or do i try and find a syringe as mentioned in the 2010 post - and where would i buy that?

3. Anyone else using Mobil 1? Should I stay with Mobil 1 or somehow drain what is left and try the Purple grease, or Lucas Oil grease mentioned in the attached post from 2010?

4. Is there a sealant anyone would recommend using so stop the seepage? It appears to come from the top through the tightened bolt.

My power steering conversion project has been delayed, which would have made this a non-issue, but until I can go to PS, my MS problem needs attention.

thanks for reading and for your help!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ox-grease.html

7T1vette

I think a "full" synthetic grease is the right way to go. But, I know nothing about Mobil 1 synthetic grease. What is important is the 'melting point' temperature of the grease. Obviously,...from your description...Mobil 1 grease has a low melting point--or it wouldn't drip out of the steering gear box.

I used "Green Grease" which is a waterproof, synthetic, high melting temp grease [greengrease.net] when I repacked mine last year. It comes in a plastic tube that will insert into a grease gun. Any good synthetic, hi-temp grease should do just fine in that application. I've had no leakage nor any other problem with the steering box since that repack.

Oh, I'm not sure of the grease 'capacity' of the steering box, but would guess at 6-8 ounces for a refill.

MelWff

did you try contacting GTR1999? I remove 2 bolts and when the grease comes out the second hole it's full. You can try holding a standard grease gun against the hole or find a zerk fitting that fits.

Lupigiato

Gary no longer posts here.

Lupigiato

Thanks for your reply. I saw this listed at Advance Auto

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2035_____

MelWff

When you repacked the box did you remove the box or do it in the car. If in the car did you do anything special to remove old grease? Thanks.

Jim Shea

Saginaw engineers always told me to use a good grade of lithium based chassis ball joint grease.

Gary now uses Costal Uniplex premium, high temperature, lithium, complex grease.

Gary used to use Mobil 1 synthetic but switched back because of leakage problems as you have noticed.

You always want a significant air volume inside the gear housing so that as underhood temperatures rise, the grease will expand, and have some expansion space. Filling the gear completely with grease can actually blow the seals out of the housing.

Jim

7T1vette

I did have the whole box out, as I was doing a full restoration of the engine compartment. But, I did not disassemble/rebuild the steering box as it was doing its job just fine. I did clean it all off and removed the top plate [I'm sure Jim_Shea is cringing as he reads this] by removing all the bolts and un-screwing the top plate off the threaded sector shaft--while counting the exact number of turns and not turning the shaft at all. By doing so, I had good access to the interior of the steering box and could remove nearly all of the existing grease and repack with the 'Green Grease'. [leaving air space as mentioned]

Once the box was repacked and top plate reinstalled and bolted down, I got the joy of using at least 5 different paints to refurbish the entire box...so that there was no bare metal on it (except for the brass, which was polished), but it still looked like (pseudo) 'factory' condition.

Now, all I have to do is hit it with the power washer every now and then.

Lupigiato

Thanks Jim!!!!!

rogman16

Mike--

I used Mobil One on my front wheel bearings and tie rod ends... Within a couple of days, had pools of red liquid on the ground and coming out of the grease caps on the hubs... Swapped it out with the "Green" stuff... No runs, drips, etc...

Rogman

Lupigiato

Thanks Rog! I ran out and bought the Coastal grease at AutoZone before receiving your reply. I just need to know if I have to drain all of the Mobil 1 before filling with Coastal or Green, or if its ok to add to the Mobil 1. Ive never worked on a steering box before and dont want to reinvent the wheel - I just to ensure i have proper volume. Still researching.

L-82kid

That is a box my Dad built, he will back it up regardless if you're the original owner or not. That Mobil 1 grease is the cause, the bolt you removed is over the worm nut so it may be a false reading.

All you have to do is go to DC contact him and ship it to CT. It will be corrected and only cost you shipping plus he will recheck the adjustments. I don't know if anyone else will cover work like that but he will.

7T1vette

If the seal is not damaged (from unit being over-filled) and you have removed it from the car, just remove two of the cover bolts and let the liquid junk drain out. Then, refill it with a hi-temp synthetic grease via one of those bolt holes. {At least, I think that's easier than mailing it off.}