Tommy Almond

Have any of you built wooden ramps like on this link? If so what are your thoughts, good or bad?

http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm

chevymans 77

I've built some wooden ramps and park my car on them all the time.

My car stays parked on mine when I'm not driving it.

Mine are a little different than the ones in the link.

Over the years there have been a few different versions of wooden ramps here on the forum.

Neal

Mark G

Looks like a good way to prevent door dings too!

The Punisher

Better have a spotter when driving up on those

TheSkunkWorks

Having spent the better part of my life involved in the family home-building business, I cringe nearly every time I see someone without a professional background in designing and building load-bearing wood structures attempt this...

C3 4ME

TSW, can you comment on what you would do different, or where improvement it needed in your opinion?

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Race Ramps service ramps and wheel cribs will do the job and also keep the TCO down since they have good resale value. If you can't swing the price of a new set buy the ramps used. There are plenty of slightly used Race ramps offered here on CF. The resale value is even better on used ramps since the first owner is the only one who really takes a hit on resale.

Race Ramps has a $25 cash rebate promotion until 31-Dec-2012 on purchases of $250 or more.

TheSkunkWorks

Being born into this world a 3rd gen builder, I've learned to appreciate wood as a wonderful material, but one must be ever mindful that dimensional lumber is far stronger in compression than in tension. Not that I intend on assuming anyone's risk here...

If I were to build such a system, I just couldn't bring myself to rely on a single ply of 2x's for runners, nor to use multiple boards to make up their width. I'd place support "studs" no further than 12" OC, and put blocking centered beneath the tire's resting positions so the static (dead) load is directed straight down to the base rather than across spans. I'd glue and screw permanent shear panels (plywood or OSB) with fasteners installed every 3" to all frame members. Appropriate steel bracketry designed for bracing wood structrues is cheap insurance which is also worth consideration.

I do like the idea of integral lights, receptacles, cubby holes and such, as long as none compromise the structure. Lift handles and rollers would be a nice touch to ease storage. IMCO, appproach ramps should be thought out just as well as are the main runners, rather than thrown together as afterthoughts. Bear in mind that any such system is only as good as its weakest link. Hope that's worth $.02 to someone.

Tommy Almond

TSW, thanks for your input. My brother was a master carpenter but he is no longer with us so your insight is welcomed. I too am a little leary about the wood set up, some have them and love them but again we only have one live so take care of it. I am looking at this option as well as the Max Jack or a 4 post lift. Main thought so far has been about space but I need to factor safety into it more.

Carl Granquist

I have a set that you're welcome to have a look at, for comparison's sake.

PM for package.

rogman16

While I think the wood ramps are a cool idea, I will second the motion for the race ramps... I have two sets of the 10" ramps that come in two 5" ramps... I place the rear wheels up on a set of 5" ramps, jack the from up on the full 10" ramps and then return to the rear to put the second set of 5" blocks to level the car... Takes 5-10 minutes to move the floor jack around the car... Plenty of room underneath to work ;-)



Rogman

chevymans 77

pic of the mid rail and ramp removed,


Pic of the ramps when I drive on them,


Car stored with ramps removed for more room in garage;


I don't remember who here drew these up but there was a set of prints and a cut list posted here years back for these ramps. If i remember correctly someone here put the effort into designing the ramps for the load.

With a 3200# car and 50% weight distribution your looking at around 800# per block, not really allot of weight.

I've had my car parked on mine off and on since around 2004 with no issues. They're still solid as the day they were built

Neal

Tommy Almond

Those of you that have these wooden ramps, have you jacked the car up and supported it on jack stands sitting on the top board of the ramps?

chevymans 77

Yes,

I set the blocks that are under the tires were I want them and put the stands on top of them.

Neal

hicswa

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/album.php?albumid=23816

hicswa

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-hoilday.html

Tommy Almond

Reading thru your link you said you had 18" working space, is that ramps are 18" tall or your clearance under the vette 18"? If this is the clearance how tall are your ramps?

76Vett

Tommy beat me to the question. For those that have built these, do you have a suggested build height, do you wish yours where an inch higher/lower?

hicswa

I made them out of two by twelve. 18 inches is how far the car is away from me lying on a creeper. For me is a comfortable height to work under the car. The lights installed which are adjustable are a blessing to have. Also the built in outlets in the ramps is also a neat way to eliminate the extension cords that you always seem to roll over with the creeper. The way I came up on what height to use was to lie on the creeper and extend my arms up while my daughter measured from the floor to my hands. Then do the math and adjust the ramp height that works for you.

74Ken

TSW. let me ask you this.
What if I was able to get ahold of an I-beam for support under the wheel area?

I have a house builder who I think can hook me up with some 10" pieces that I could incorporate inside the ramps that Shel Myers made (http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm). I like the look of his ramps, but I think I would still use 2x12 (or 2x14 depending on my tire size) instead of 2x6's.

Would that solve the load bearing issues you see?