kennethj!

I'm not sure if those two gray wires in the battery box are from the factory or not. I bought the car new and remember that there was a charging problem with the car and it was brought back to the dealership for repair. I think the dealership added them because it looks like a hack job. They go from the battery and one ends up on the power lug on the alternator and one on the ground wire on the alternator. besides that the car never had an electrical issue. I'm going to remove all the fuses and whatever connections I can find and clean them. I'm thinking that over all those years and extreme temperature changes here, it will be something as simple as a little corrosion. If not, I have no idea what I should do next.

Also not sure if I'm navigating this form correctly.

kennethj!

I figured that I would put my efforts at this time towards getting the car running, as I could then drive it to a repair shop for the electrical issues if I couldn't figure them out. No such luck, it wont start. The engine freely turns over, however no hint of even wanting to start. I checked for spark at the end of three plug wires and couldn't find any. Those prior mentioned Gremlins are out in full force. Any ideas on the first thing that I should check? Is there anything in the fuse box that powers up the ignition?

kennethj!

I removed the control module and coil and brought it to my local parts store to have it checked. The guy advised me that he could not check the coil, but could check the control module. I was advised that the control module was not functioning. He also explained how I could check the coil with a multi meter. I checked the coil and from what I was told to look for it appeared to be functioning. I replaced the control module and the car still had no spark. I again removed the control module and brought it back to have the new one checked. I was told that it was defective and they replaced it for me. The car started up and when it reached the normal operating temperature it was like I turned off the key. I restarted it and it would run for a few seconds or a minute and then die. Sometimes it would start instantly back up and other times I would need to crank it for awhile. The engine sounded very good and was very responsive to the throttle. I was concerned about how much it was smoking after it had ran for about ten minutes, thinking all that oil in the cylinders I put in them should have burned out by then. Tomorrow morning I’m going to start it up and see if it still runs until it reaches operating temperature or dies out when it is still relatively cold. Any ideas on what I should look for?

blk79nj

It's supposed to do this.

blk79nj

1. What Color was the smoke? (white = coolant, Blue = Oil, Black = too rich)
2. Check the fuel filter, see if it is clogged.
3. My situation is different, my car hasn't sat for any length of time... but I was going along one time, and it shut off just like I turned the key off. It was the ignition module.

68ragtop69

Any pics of the car that you are bringing out of a coma?

kennethj!

I ran the car at idle yesterday for an extended period of time and the engine continued to sporadically die out. It did not make a difference if it was hot or cold. One thing that was consistent, every time that the key is turned off before restarting, it fires up immediately, opposed to leaving the ignition on and turning the key to start.
I removed the fuel filter and found it to be in perfect condition.
The blue in color smoking issue has almost completely subsided, after idling for about an hour.
I can understand now the reason it was suggested that I replace all the hoses on the car. while goosing the engine a little, the top radiator hose would completely contract, craziest thing I ever saw. The hose looks to be in perfect condition, apparently not.
It was great to hear from the above member that it is normal for the fan to run on low at all times. One less electrical problem I need to deal with. I also got a charge out of the above member describing my car as being in a Coma! I will post some photos as soon as I can figure out how it is accomplished.

C3 4ME

Always good to hear about another 79 back among the living. Hopefully it will be road worthy soon. You definitely seem to be taking the right steps to getting it there.

blk79nj

Glad to hear that the smoke is clearing up, that is a good sign.

After it cuts out, if you pump the gas, is there still gas squirting out the accelerator pump? If not you may have failing fuel pump since the filter is not clogged.

I still think you have some kind of ignition problem. Re-check all of the module connections. Did you put the grease under module when you installed it? I helps dissipate the heat that it creates.

With all of this said, it sounds like you are close to driving it. Double check tires and brakes to make sure they are in good condition. The rubber lines deteriorate the same way as radiator hoses do.

If you have any questions, please post it on the forum. Somebody will respond.

kennethj!

Yes, I also think it is an ignition issue as when it stops running and is restarted there is no hesitation or stumbling like it is running out or short on fuel. It starts immediately and runs smooth. I know that I placed grease on the bottom of the first module as I wiped it off when I returned it to the parts store, but can't remember if I did it on the second module.

kennethj!

Darn! The thing won't start at all again. I can't believe that it would be a bad control module for the third time, but I will have it checked tomorrow. I do have power at the distributor and the coil checks out with a multi meter. From my understanding the only thing left is the trigger coil. I wonder if I should just purchase a new distributor?

KNEVER

Are you getting spark at the spark plugs?
Have you done a compression test?
Start there report back.
Have you ever rebuilt an engine before?

kennethj!

I was removing the control module again today and smelled a odor of burned coffee. Upon looking closer I found that the side of the ignition coil had severely melted. I figured that the coil is the problem and replaced same. Apparently the coil is not the only issue as it still won't start.
Not getting any spark at the plugs.
I have a compression tester, but did not test the compression.
I have never rebuilt a car engine, but have rebuilt a MC engine and a outboard.

procketus

I've had the same problem with mine. Finally replaced the distributor, again, and it runs fine. Ask around, maybe someone you know has a KNOWN WORKING distributor you can borrow and see what happens. Other than that, replace it.

camuchi

Kenneth
I also have a corvette in a coma. Mine is a 1972 coupe that hasn't run since 95-98 as far as I can tell. Haven't started on mine but have bought some parts including a new HEI distributor with tach drive from skip white performance they are only 71$. May be a solution for your run/not run problem. I Ordered mine tonight and have a stack of brake parts already waiting in the garage. No relation or anything here, just passing on a good deal. Good luck - watch for my thread in a few weeks.

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=6515-CL

blk79nj

The entire new distributor is not a bad idea. I ended up doing the same as others have posted. It is cheaper then buying all the parts separately, and maybe quicker to install.

kennethj!

Oh happy day! I removed the control module thinking that maybe when the coil fried it took that with it. The guy at the parts store checked it and told me that it checks out fine, but that from his experience the test is not accurate all the time. I proceeded to my old favorite family owned parts store who had since moved several miles away from my home and had the owner check it for me. He advised me that it was junk, so I purchased another one. Upon installing it, the vette fired right up. I let it run for over an hour and it didn’t miss a beat. I also noticed that I’m not getting any blue smoke out of it anymore, even when I goose it. I did noticed that it seems to be running rich when cold as it spews a little dark gray smoke and I can feel my eyes burn. Once it warms up that issue is gone. I think I will contact the company that had rebuilt it(recommended on this site) and see what they say.

Time to go back out into the garage and see if I can figure out any of the many none functioning electrical items, i.e. gauges, dome light, radio, horn, rear window defogger. By the way, between the speedometer and tachometer it appears that there are three lights. The bottom one lights up as the brake light, what are the two above it for? I would think it would be in the owner’s manual, but I have no idea where I placed it. I’m sure it’s on the internet somewhere, but I couldn’t find it.

KNEVER

The reason for the smoke at start up is most likely because your valve stem seals are worn out.

kennethj!

Are these seals made out of rubber or some type of neoprene? The car has 14xxx miles on it, but I suppose those seals just degenerated from sitting so long.

kennethj!

I found four burned out fuses and replaced same. The clock, fuel gauge, horn, and power door locks are still not functioning, but every thing else is. My new problem is with the power antenna, the motor keeps running. the antenna came out of the rear quarter about one inch and that was it. I can easily move it up or down manually. How does one go about removing this thing. I searched the internet and couldn't find any comprehendible instructions.