C3 78 Paint adventure
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
The last coat to the front end has been applied, we are moving on to the rear
Pretty close match..Let it dry a few days, then begin installing - valance, front air scoop, head Light doors, hood, the cowl cover is separate, will have to be clear coated by it self..
I wonder how it will look in the day light, Being shade blind is a real challenge.
Pretty close match..Let it dry a few days, then begin installing - valance, front air scoop, head Light doors, hood, the cowl cover is separate, will have to be clear coated by it self..
I wonder how it will look in the day light, Being shade blind is a real challenge.
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 07-31-2013 at 04:51 PM.
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
we are starting to attach the body parts in check the color match,
I want to move slow on this, do not want to re-paint if possible. should be able to set it out side next week in the sun light for a better look.
I can already see the body work areas I could improve on IF I were to do another car.....
I want to move slow on this, do not want to re-paint if possible. should be able to set it out side next week in the sun light for a better look.
I can already see the body work areas I could improve on IF I were to do another car.....
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 08-20-2013 at 05:44 PM.
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
Well, I knew painting each part separate could cause problems with matching the parts later.
I found the paint in that batch was not mixed the same as the others, It had been pre-reduced to help me..never mind that I was reading the instructions about reducing, so I did and it was reduced to 1-1, causing it to be too thin and I applied more coats to cover hence the red tone. Re paint.
I found the paint in that batch was not mixed the same as the others, It had been pre-reduced to help me..never mind that I was reading the instructions about reducing, so I did and it was reduced to 1-1, causing it to be too thin and I applied more coats to cover hence the red tone. Re paint.
#30
Administrator
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: About 1100 miles from where I call home. Blue lives matter.
Posts: 51,409
Received 5,326 Likes
on
2,774 Posts
Nice work. Good for you.
#31
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the good supportive comments, what a disappointment is was to see the color difference. I did not know until I unwrapped the parts that I had a re-paint coming my way. Seems to be working out...I do not want to say I am getting better, that would only make something else go wrong.......best keep a low profile.
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
donnie1956
The car was originally a two tone Metallic Brown Mahogany with sliver bottom. I believe there was also three layers to work with. As you can see from the photos the blue was shot down to the below the base coat, so we took it down by sanding it to the sliver under coat which was used for the Metallic colors then. I also looked for any surface cracks that may developed over the years and repaired them as we went.
I had thought of using the chemical stripper and or the razor blade approach but opted for a finish sander for the majority of the work and some hand sanding where needed.
I tried a disc sander on the hood for stripping and found you could take off too much material and create a problem....leaves gouges to be repaired.
When you go to prime it, remember to use a different color (like a spry can) to lightly mist the car in areas you think need attention. then when you sand it the problems will be seen better, the gray primer tends to all blend together and hind the problems.
There are better and more experienced members here that know a lot more than I about painting the cars, just ask we will help.
This link will show you what I have gone through, enjoy... hope it helps...
http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/78vett/slideshow/
The car was originally a two tone Metallic Brown Mahogany with sliver bottom. I believe there was also three layers to work with. As you can see from the photos the blue was shot down to the below the base coat, so we took it down by sanding it to the sliver under coat which was used for the Metallic colors then. I also looked for any surface cracks that may developed over the years and repaired them as we went.
I had thought of using the chemical stripper and or the razor blade approach but opted for a finish sander for the majority of the work and some hand sanding where needed.
I tried a disc sander on the hood for stripping and found you could take off too much material and create a problem....leaves gouges to be repaired.
When you go to prime it, remember to use a different color (like a spry can) to lightly mist the car in areas you think need attention. then when you sand it the problems will be seen better, the gray primer tends to all blend together and hind the problems.
There are better and more experienced members here that know a lot more than I about painting the cars, just ask we will help.
This link will show you what I have gone through, enjoy... hope it helps...
http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/78vett/slideshow/
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 08-25-2013 at 09:41 AM.
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
#38
Pro
Thread Starter
#39
Pro
Thread Starter
While getting ready to clear coat I found these two areas had a bubble and need repair. At first I thought it was the paint, It turned out to be the old body filler had separated from the bumper, the same for the small area lower down.
Before driving the 100 mile round trip to the store I went ahead and applied the first two clear coats to the front end.
Seems to be coming along...
With the recommended repair material Now in hand let us look at the rear end problems.....
Before driving the 100 mile round trip to the store I went ahead and applied the first two clear coats to the front end.
Seems to be coming along...
With the recommended repair material Now in hand let us look at the rear end problems.....
Last edited by Douglas Brown; 10-25-2013 at 11:10 AM.
#40
Le Mans Master
That looks fantastic. There is some light at the end of the tunnel now. Very nice job.