Replacing power antenna
#1
Replacing power antenna
Hello. My power antenna motor keeps running and the mast doesn't move. I removed the whole assembly. Don't know whether to repair with replacement mast or replace entire assembly. Also, not sure how to go about repairing with replacement mast. Any info is appreciated.
1980 corvette.
Thanks.
1980 corvette.
Thanks.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
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Cruise-In II Veteran
The mast kits usually come with instructions. You can also opt for a reproduction power antenna.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I just printed instructions for changing the mast (GM/Delco). The instructions don't show how to remove the mast from the "tube". Is there a trick to this? I can't seem to loosen it at all.
#4
Race Director
I can't help you on disassembling the antenna, as I haven't taken one of those apart in years. If your trying to keep your 80 correct original, you will need to replace the mast, on your original antenna.
The repro 78-82 power antennas, have not been available in about two years, and I don't know that they will be anytime soon. We expected them last summer, but we still haven't seen them.
Your only choice right now, is to replace the mast in yours, or buy a generic replacement antenna.
The repro 78-82 power antennas, have not been available in about two years, and I don't know that they will be anytime soon. We expected them last summer, but we still haven't seen them.
Your only choice right now, is to replace the mast in yours, or buy a generic replacement antenna.
#6
Instructor
#7
Thanks everyone. I am going for the mast replacement. Just trying to get the mast out of the tube. Appears to be a press fit. Is there a trick to removing the mast from tube?
Thanks again for the help.
Thanks again for the help.
#8
Burning Brakes
OK, so I uninstalled, REPAIRED and replaced my `82's power antenna a month or so ago. All I can say is, get a good bright light to shine up into the fender well and a screw-driver socket helps with getting a good angle on removing the lower bolt. Also, the connector to the antenna is behind the driver's side rear speaker carpet - its probably already disconnected unless a `bubba' cut the wire down below. I discovered that, the sealing grommet for the antenna cable/wires is easier pushed into the vehicle from below after 31 years of its `position memory'. This job was not that hard for this relative novice, and I bought the kit for about $25 from Riks Corvette shop online. My tech quoted me almost $200 for the repair, including a generic replacement antenna which is known for questionable quality vs. the original, so here goes:
My `82 has aftermarket replacement mufflers which allowed a little clearance to access the power antenna. There are only two bolts holding it in and a ground cable (obviously, the fender is fiberglass, requiring a ground strap). Unscrew the antenna cable itself. Then, unscrew the antenna nut at the base of the antenna using needle nose pliers. My antenna was fully extended and tricky to maneuver out of the bottom of the car - I almost bent it so be careful.
The instructions that come with your new antenna cord are pretty self explanatory, but here's what I did. I drilled the 5 or 6 rivets and used stainless bolts (Lowes or Home Depot) in case I ever need to do it again. I love this car and plan to keep it. Then, a couple more critical junctures: First, I used a good deal of Vaseline petroleum jelly (the blogs say it works and its working awesome) in the lube-bath area and throughout. You don't want to do this repair every day. Then, after greasing the metal antenna end of the new cord it finally popped through the end of the factory antenna. I then positioned the antenna so that it was fully closed, worrying that it would not open/close all the way if I did this wrong. I pre-wound the cord all the way around the antenna storage cylinder, ensuring its natural state was fully retracted (easier for me than making it fully opened - read above where I had to bend it to get it out). Then, I re-silicone and bolted it shut, and sanded/painted the entire metal/plastic assembly in silver. I've kept everything original on my red beauty to date, but I read that one reason for the premature failure of these antennas is their position above the muffler. I spray painted mine with two coats of bright chrome silver (Lowes) which actually just looks regular silver, in order to reflect away some of the heat. I know they sell aluminum insulation socks for ~$25, but, this will work for me.
Test it out inside the vehicle with the connector and be sure to point it toward an open window (!) with your radio turned off. It was one beautiful, satisfying sound/sight when it started extending when I turned on the radio !! The, I used some silicone to help insulate the antenna wherever it connected, and sanded and used di-electric grease for both, the antenna and power leads. Everything went back together fairly straightforward, but a word of caution - take a picture of the antenna assembly from all angles when you first remove it. It helped me to re-position and reinstall everything correctly. Must admit that, after having the antenna fixed in the up position since buying the buying the vehicle, it is pretty cool and satisfying having it work correctly as intended on the vehicle. It is not exactly a quiet antenna compared to other cars I've owned, but it sounds wonderfully functional to me and working exactly as the engineers designed it back in the 80's. Good luck and don' be intimidated. Remember the silicone adhesive, drill (for rivets), the 5 or 6 replacement bolts/nuts, some sort of durable lubricant for a self-contained device as this, and reflective silver paint (nobody sees it way up, tucked under the fender) as desired instead of leaving as a black case which is more sensitive to a hot, exhaust environment.
Good luck!
Dave
My `82 has aftermarket replacement mufflers which allowed a little clearance to access the power antenna. There are only two bolts holding it in and a ground cable (obviously, the fender is fiberglass, requiring a ground strap). Unscrew the antenna cable itself. Then, unscrew the antenna nut at the base of the antenna using needle nose pliers. My antenna was fully extended and tricky to maneuver out of the bottom of the car - I almost bent it so be careful.
The instructions that come with your new antenna cord are pretty self explanatory, but here's what I did. I drilled the 5 or 6 rivets and used stainless bolts (Lowes or Home Depot) in case I ever need to do it again. I love this car and plan to keep it. Then, a couple more critical junctures: First, I used a good deal of Vaseline petroleum jelly (the blogs say it works and its working awesome) in the lube-bath area and throughout. You don't want to do this repair every day. Then, after greasing the metal antenna end of the new cord it finally popped through the end of the factory antenna. I then positioned the antenna so that it was fully closed, worrying that it would not open/close all the way if I did this wrong. I pre-wound the cord all the way around the antenna storage cylinder, ensuring its natural state was fully retracted (easier for me than making it fully opened - read above where I had to bend it to get it out). Then, I re-silicone and bolted it shut, and sanded/painted the entire metal/plastic assembly in silver. I've kept everything original on my red beauty to date, but I read that one reason for the premature failure of these antennas is their position above the muffler. I spray painted mine with two coats of bright chrome silver (Lowes) which actually just looks regular silver, in order to reflect away some of the heat. I know they sell aluminum insulation socks for ~$25, but, this will work for me.
Test it out inside the vehicle with the connector and be sure to point it toward an open window (!) with your radio turned off. It was one beautiful, satisfying sound/sight when it started extending when I turned on the radio !! The, I used some silicone to help insulate the antenna wherever it connected, and sanded and used di-electric grease for both, the antenna and power leads. Everything went back together fairly straightforward, but a word of caution - take a picture of the antenna assembly from all angles when you first remove it. It helped me to re-position and reinstall everything correctly. Must admit that, after having the antenna fixed in the up position since buying the buying the vehicle, it is pretty cool and satisfying having it work correctly as intended on the vehicle. It is not exactly a quiet antenna compared to other cars I've owned, but it sounds wonderfully functional to me and working exactly as the engineers designed it back in the 80's. Good luck and don' be intimidated. Remember the silicone adhesive, drill (for rivets), the 5 or 6 replacement bolts/nuts, some sort of durable lubricant for a self-contained device as this, and reflective silver paint (nobody sees it way up, tucked under the fender) as desired instead of leaving as a black case which is more sensitive to a hot, exhaust environment.
Good luck!
Dave