What to do, what to do?
#1
What to do, what to do?
A couple years ago, I bought a 76 L48/4spd car. Nothing special, but it was a running 4spd car, that would pass inspection. I probably overpaid, but hey, I wanted a Corvette! Besides,thats irrelevant now.
So it was my daily for a few months, but the motor was weak, and was using oil. My radiator had also gotten a hole in it, and the car overheated. So I decided to do some engine work.
Pulled the heads off and got them remachined, lapped the valves, shimmed the springs, got an Edelbrock intake, and a Holley Street Avenger. Figured I'd be good to go. But things are never simple. I couldn't get that intake to seal. I tried everything I knew, but I kept getting antifreeze in the oil, which is certainly isn't conductive to long engine life! I even enlisted the help of a couple professionals, to no avail.
Finally I had enough. I have a 70 C10 with a 383, but I've long wanted an LS motor in that truck. So, I said screw it, and pulled the 383 to drop in my Vette. But, I procrastinated, winter came, and with an unheated pole barn, I was less than motivated. So when spring came, I had two vehicles with no engines, and it was time for me to get shipped off to bootcamp.
I told my buddy, who is pretty mechanically proficient, that if he finished up the car and did some standard maintenance stuff, he could drive it while I was gone.
Fastforward three months. I'm back, and my car is broken. Apparently, the carb stud vibrated itself loose, and managed to find its way into the engine. Keep in mind, I don't blame my buddy. The fact that he had the car at the time doesn't have any bearing in my current dilemma.
So now, I don't know what to do. Sell the car, and take the loss? Or dump more money into it. I'm afraid to get really tied up with it, without starting a complete restore, since I don't know exactly how bad the birdcage is. I'd really like to have a nice C3 with an LS motor, but I can't justify doing that when my truck is just sitting in the garage with no motor. And that truck is going nowhere. It's my baby, and I never plan to sell it.
Also, I don't have time to do much work myself. I'm about to ship out again, and when I get back, I'll be in college, and working full time.
Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read this far. I just felt the need to vent to people who might understand.
So it was my daily for a few months, but the motor was weak, and was using oil. My radiator had also gotten a hole in it, and the car overheated. So I decided to do some engine work.
Pulled the heads off and got them remachined, lapped the valves, shimmed the springs, got an Edelbrock intake, and a Holley Street Avenger. Figured I'd be good to go. But things are never simple. I couldn't get that intake to seal. I tried everything I knew, but I kept getting antifreeze in the oil, which is certainly isn't conductive to long engine life! I even enlisted the help of a couple professionals, to no avail.
Finally I had enough. I have a 70 C10 with a 383, but I've long wanted an LS motor in that truck. So, I said screw it, and pulled the 383 to drop in my Vette. But, I procrastinated, winter came, and with an unheated pole barn, I was less than motivated. So when spring came, I had two vehicles with no engines, and it was time for me to get shipped off to bootcamp.
I told my buddy, who is pretty mechanically proficient, that if he finished up the car and did some standard maintenance stuff, he could drive it while I was gone.
Fastforward three months. I'm back, and my car is broken. Apparently, the carb stud vibrated itself loose, and managed to find its way into the engine. Keep in mind, I don't blame my buddy. The fact that he had the car at the time doesn't have any bearing in my current dilemma.
So now, I don't know what to do. Sell the car, and take the loss? Or dump more money into it. I'm afraid to get really tied up with it, without starting a complete restore, since I don't know exactly how bad the birdcage is. I'd really like to have a nice C3 with an LS motor, but I can't justify doing that when my truck is just sitting in the garage with no motor. And that truck is going nowhere. It's my baby, and I never plan to sell it.
Also, I don't have time to do much work myself. I'm about to ship out again, and when I get back, I'll be in college, and working full time.
Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read this far. I just felt the need to vent to people who might understand.
#2
Le Mans Master
Sell the car and find one with an LS motor in it already. It will be a lot cheaper in the long run.
#3
You are very right. However, if I do end up selling it, I would probably end up using the money towards a more reliable DD. My current one is a 92 Wrangler, and while not unreliable, it needs more care and takes more gas than is really practical.
#4
Drifting
If I were you I would sell the car and cut your loses, unless you are emotionally attached to it for some reason. I have a '76 L82 that I have about $20k more into it than it is worth but I plan on keeping it forever. It is easy to get into a car and once you are into to it, start putting more money into it than it will ever be worth. Unfortunately, because of the various factors, the '76 will never be worth a whole lot.
#5
Le Mans Master
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Never worth
If I were you I would sell the car and cut your loses, unless you are emotionally attached to it for some reason. I have a '76 L82 that I have about $20k more into it than it is worth but I plan on keeping it forever. It is easy to get into a car and once you are into to it, start putting more money into it than it will ever be worth. Unfortunately, because of the various factors, the '76 will never be worth a whole lot.
#6
Drifting
I am always amazed when people think they can predict that C3 rubber bumpers cars will never be worth a whole lot. I am pretty certain a day will come that they will bring big money, it may not be soon, but someday. The ridiculous prices C2 cars bring makes no sense either, but it happened. Now, if you said a 2006 Camry will never bring money, I can buy that. But a C3 rubber bumper car is ALMOST the same car as a 69, the differences are minor. ANyway, thats my opinion.
#7
Race Director
How is it going to be cheaper. He has a 76 with a blown motor that isn´t in mint condition. Lets say he gets 3K for it. For him, to buy another vette with an LS motor is going to cost around 9 to 10 k. So thats 7K he has to come up with. He can get another 383 shortblock from ATK engines for around $1800. Then put all his parts onto it. With all the extra junk, gaskets , oil, whatever else he might need it will be around $2500. Thats alot better than $7000.
Lets say he goes with the LS type motor. He gets a steel block one and then all the installation junk will probably cost $5000. Still better than $7000.
And next time put lock tight on the stud.
#8
Race Director
I am always amazed when people think they can predict that C3 rubber bumpers cars will never be worth a whole lot. I am pretty certain a day will come that they will bring big money, it may not be soon, but someday. The ridiculous prices C2 cars bring makes no sense either, but it happened. Now, if you said a 2006 Camry will never bring money, I can buy that. But a C3 rubber bumper car is ALMOST the same car as a 69, the differences are minor. ANyway, thats my opinion.
There were twice as many rubber bumper cars made than the steel bumper ones. And the older ones had the more desirable engines in them. They will never be worth the big bucks of a steel bumper car, they are just more desirable.
#9
Race Director
If I were you I would sell the car and cut your loses, unless you are emotionally attached to it for some reason. I have a '76 L82 that I have about $20k more into it than it is worth but I plan on keeping it forever. It is easy to get into a car and once you are into to it, start putting more money into it than it will ever be worth. Unfortunately, because of the various factors, the '76 will never be worth a whole lot.
Some people can´t afford to sell to cut the loses. If you sell at a loss you may never have enough to buy another. At least he has one now. Keep it and put a 383 short block into it.
#10
Thanks for all the replies. I'm really torn, because even though I can afford right now to go either direction, I'm also hoping to buy a house within the next 6 months. That also plays a big part in my decision.
#11
Melting Slicks
:: rode in a friends 75 [love them bumperettes], it's a pooch, but the interior fit and the solid feel compared to my 68, what a difference 7 years of production refinements can make. a strong engine in a newer c3, now that's a car.
#12
Drifting
If the rest of the car is in good condition, doesn't make too much sense to me to sell at a loss. It's not a big deal to drop another motor in it.
#13
Burning Brakes
As for the horspower issue,..pre 1974 cars used a NET HP rating. This was HP at the fly wheel taking an engine on a dyno,...no powertrain attached, no accessories, no alternator, no A/C,...not even a water pump. What we got was an average of 270hp rated bumper cars.
After 1974, the auto industry went to a NET HP rating. This took the HP rating at the rear wheel, with all accessories and options attached. It also included all the emission componets and SINGLE exhaust with catalyst converter, (although it had fake dual exhaust exiting the rear). This gave us an average 190 NET HP,...(as much as 225HP with the L-82 option). I have owned several rubber bumper C3/s over the yers. None of them have maintained the emisson equipment and all of them had been convereted to true dual exhaust.
Outside of specific Big Block cars or special High HP offerings,....the actual HP difference is not all that much if compared eqully.
#14
Race Director
I want to know how a carb stud made its way into the motor, through the carburetor... with an air cleaner on. I'm sure the answer to that will lead to more questions.
#15
Melting Slicks
#16
Race Director
#17
Drifting
Allow me to inject,...true, they made a mountain of rubber bumper cars,...but very few have survived. They hit the bottom of the depreciation curve really quickly, (partially due to the intro of the more modern C4 in 1984), and got "used up" pretty quickly. There are more examples of nice chrome bumper cars available today than rubber bumper models.
As for the horspower issue,..pre 1974 cars used a NET HP rating. This was HP at the fly wheel taking an engine on a dyno,...no powertrain attached, no accessories, no alternator, no A/C,...not even a water pump. What we got was an average of 270hp rated bumper cars.
After 1974, the auto industry went to a NET HP rating. This took the HP rating at the rear wheel, with all accessories and options attached. It also included all the emission componets and SINGLE exhaust with catalyst converter, (although it had fake dual exhaust exiting the rear). This gave us an average 190 NET HP,...(as much as 225HP with the L-82 option). I have owned several rubber bumper C3/s over the yers. None of them have maintained the emisson equipment and all of them had been convereted to true dual exhaust.
Outside of specific Big Block cars or special High HP offerings,....the actual HP difference is not all that much if compared eqully.
As for the horspower issue,..pre 1974 cars used a NET HP rating. This was HP at the fly wheel taking an engine on a dyno,...no powertrain attached, no accessories, no alternator, no A/C,...not even a water pump. What we got was an average of 270hp rated bumper cars.
After 1974, the auto industry went to a NET HP rating. This took the HP rating at the rear wheel, with all accessories and options attached. It also included all the emission componets and SINGLE exhaust with catalyst converter, (although it had fake dual exhaust exiting the rear). This gave us an average 190 NET HP,...(as much as 225HP with the L-82 option). I have owned several rubber bumper C3/s over the yers. None of them have maintained the emisson equipment and all of them had been convereted to true dual exhaust.
Outside of specific Big Block cars or special High HP offerings,....the actual HP difference is not all that much if compared eqully.
Pete
#18
Melting Slicks
Not quite correct. The NET power rating is still taken at the flywheel, not the rear wheels. But as you correctly stated with all the power robbing "accessories" as air filter & housing, exhaust, water pump, etc. they also took a flash reading to get gross power, that is, zipped it up the rpm scale til it gave a peak reading, no sustained power reading.
Pete
Pete
#19
Melting Slicks
I agree that you should put the '76 in the garage and hold onto it - when circumstances change, you can work on it. It's not worth taking the loss for the small amount of money you'll get for it in its present condition.
Keep in mind that chrome bumper C3's used to be looked down on until C1's and C2's went up in value to the point most couldn't afford them. Chrome bumper C3's are now demanding more money, which will increase demand for rubber bumper C3's. You don't want to be the guy who wishes he didn't sell his C3 when you see what they're going for years from now.
You should keep the original block, even if you put another engine in it.
Keep in mind that chrome bumper C3's used to be looked down on until C1's and C2's went up in value to the point most couldn't afford them. Chrome bumper C3's are now demanding more money, which will increase demand for rubber bumper C3's. You don't want to be the guy who wishes he didn't sell his C3 when you see what they're going for years from now.
You should keep the original block, even if you put another engine in it.
#20