corvettecris

Just curious, I have mine off the car at the moment. I would like to clean her up really nicely before re installing.

Most parts I pressure wash, sandblast and powdercoat or use a self-etching primer and paint, but I am not sure if it is safe to blast the diff and risk sand entering the casing. I wasn't planning on a total disassembly, but if that is the only way, then so be it.

I tried wire brushing but only with limited results. I have some POR15 (with all the stuff such as etcher and marine clean) but have never really trusted using it on 'rusty' surfaces...?

7T1vette

As long as you can keep sand/media/debris out of the 'guts', why not?

You will need to mask off the side seals (duct tape?) so they won't blow off or damage the seal lips/journals.

Oops! Don't forget to seal off the vent.

1974ta

I bead blasted my differential with no issues.

Tape it up carefully as noted.

Bill

corvettecris

That is actually what I was worried about; whether the pressure of the blaster would force the media inside past the seals. I can tape it, and give it a go. I was planning on then opening it back up and flushing it out really well with some kind of solvent, and then maybe replacing only the outer seals, if needed.

Anyways, thanks guys. I was just hesitant as when I sandblast, there seems to be no crevice that escapes the media's infiltration....

7T1vette

Just don't shoot media directly at the seals when nozzle is around them. Then, flush all the media away from them when done blasting.

joewill

I think you are asking for trouble, not worth the risk. the tiniest bit of media getting inside will toast your bearings, if not now, then a couple thousand miles down the road. A good wire wheel will also do the job. if the case is bone dry and has never leaked, then your seals have a better chance of keeping the bad stuff out.. but if not then media can get in.. since oil was able to get out.

replace all your seals and gasket while it is out.

a different media..(soda, walnut shells?) but more expensive? could be considered?

perhaps dial down your blasting pressure to the bare minimum.

lvmyvt76

don't forget the pinon seal, it's easier to replace now than when it is in the car, ask me how I know.

corvettecris

Thanks again for the input. I haven't had trouble with the diff; no apparent leaks or anything. I am replacing the gasket, but also can do the seals. I have toyed with the idea of replacing all bearings, but it really seems like a costly and perhaps unnecessary procedure since I didn't have any trouble out of the rear-end beforehand, and I am not exactly 100% sure I would know how to do it right anyways.

Mako72

I did mine when I had it out about 10 years ago before a rebuild. Repainted it and have had no issues.

70BBvert

This is what I did. Fresh grease and have had no problems.

By the way - are you really using sand? For cast parts I use glass bead. For heavy rust I use aluminum oxide first then glass bead.

Jim

Korevette

Sandblasting... sort of like trimming your 'hedge' with a hand held 'lawnmower' on the horizontal. Does it work? Yes it does if you are carefull.

My two trailing arm assembly bearings were within specs and did not need replacement. I wrapped many turns of 'fine' cotton' rope between the bearings and flanges followed with real good ahesive tape and had absolutely no issues.

Go the extra mile in thinking were would the 'sand' go and be preventive on the clean up. A good 'post' prep will help.

Rally68

I don't think it's worth the risk. Power wash it, hit it with a wire brush in a drill, a couple of coats of rust convertor, and a couple of coats of Cast Blast:

After power washing:



After the treatment described above:



My 2c

corvettecris

Thanks for the input yet again. And by sand I mean I usually glass bead blast, but am in the habit of just calling it sand...

cv67

Same here, done it twice.
Tape the areas off real good with some good tape youll be fine. If you want to flush out you can but dont think youll need to.