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Coming along slowly but surely: drilled the oil pan for the -10 oil return fitting, made some radiator lower brackets that fits in the stock location of the 68 SBC radiator. When I replaced the core support I wasn't sure which direction I was going to take so I bought the one with the pegs....evidently I found a great deal on a new Dewit BBC radiator so those brackets will do the trick (using factory BBC top brackets)
Back at it again. I had to take a break from the car due to my son's birth on nov 4. Now that my son is 9 weeks old, i get longer naps from
him where i can play with the car again.... this is where the fun start: i misjudged how low the front end of the car would be which translated in having to re-do the hot side and go with the shallow holley ls pan vs using the muscle car gm pan...urgh. Same design on the y pipe but flipped around
I also had the chance to rebuilt both headlights buckets and did the electric conversion, and installed them back in the car to check thefitment.
Last edited by mirage2991; 01-17-2017 at 10:41 AM.
holley 302-2 pan later, and the y pipe version 3.0, or maybe it is 4.0.... who's counting.... I have gained a lot of clearance.
and just for fun i put one door back on to see how off i am....
it's off a bit but the fender gap was always funky and didnt follow the door sking right.... so now i have room to fix that
holley charge a rediculous price for something made in china.... the gm muscle car pan is 185$ less and has a gasket, bolts, tray and dipstick... half the time i think i shoulda just shortened it and welded it....
I had enough welding exhaust pipes and wanted a change of pace, so back to body work, to address this driver side door gap and other issues...
After playing with shims on the body, I got a very nice gap at the rear fender....(pictures shows where I started with the door not closing all the way, to the door closing wit about an 1/8 gap.
The front, the lines didn't match the fender...then after looking at my door it appear it had been re-skinned and cut to short up front (as you can also see the back of the lower hinge)...I'll be procuring a replacement door (my lower in corner of the shell rusted out anyway, and there's some other fiberglass blisters here and there).
With both doors now on and fitted, with all the gaps where I want them to be, I started working on the chassis re-enforcement, all in an attempt to reduce the amount of flex as much as possible while not having anything showing outside the car (like a hoop)
A nice fix to the door gaps front and back. I was wondering if the gaps will change since the vert body is more flexible then the coupe and also not sitting on tires on the ground. I guess there's many ways to achieve good results.
Nice job!
RVZIO
Was able to spend some time in the garage: lowered the front 2" and finally mounted tires for the front rims. Here is a few pics as i rolled the car out to take a few step back and see how i like the stance. Probably needs to drop anoth 1" up front. Even with me in the negine bay to account for the frw parts and interior missing it isn't going down much on its own
10-03-2016, 09:24 PM
