Stock '77 soft brake pedal
#1
Stock '77 soft brake pedal
I have a stock '77 and my brake pedal is super soft. My rear brakes aren't engaging at all. I just replaced the calipers, lines and pads (they all needed it anyways) but I can't seem to figure it out. I've bled them, etc.. Any ideas/tips?
#3
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Right off the bat I would say you are picking up air somewhere or air is left over from replacing the parts...
I just put all new brakes on a friends 68 vette....NEW rubbler hoses, calipers, disks and pads.....we had perfect brakes when we let the car down and took it our for a spin.
#4
Le Mans Master
these cars can be a pia to get bled out
if you get the pedal hard and it goes soft again..then start looking for air intake
my 78 took about 4 hrs to bleed out
if you get the pedal hard and it goes soft again..then start looking for air intake
my 78 took about 4 hrs to bleed out
#5
Pro
also how are you bleeding them? i usually have someone in the car press the pedal to the floor with the bleeder open, then i close the bleeder and tell them to release the pedal so it will draw in fluid, i repeat that untill i get a sold stream of fluid out when the press the pedal.
#6
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I find the best way is to open the bleeder screw with a white paper towel under it and when you see fluid running for a minute or two, then close and re check MC and re fill...the back brakes have two bleeder screws....I think oper the outer one first, let it bleed good, then close it and open the inner ....let it bleed and close...re check MC and re fill it.....at that point you should have a good brake pedal....after a day or two...then have someone bleed it by the brake pedal method if you like....sometimes, I use a large syringe to suck the fluid then let it self bleed....have never had a problem with self bleed.
#8
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I'm having similar problems with the rear brakes....from threads I've read, I think the small diverter piston in the what-cha-ma-call-it has shifted AGAIN after I unjammed/cleaned/reset it last week. Now fluid is only going to the front brakes since they both gravity flow easily and they are starting to firm up---
not so with the rear brakes even though I attempted to bleed them first through all three bleeders---gravity & vacuum with no fluid flow after 30 minutes.
Tomorrow....remove diverter piston.....rebleed M.C of air bubbles.......rebleed rear & front calipers!
not so with the rear brakes even though I attempted to bleed them first through all three bleeders---gravity & vacuum with no fluid flow after 30 minutes.
Tomorrow....remove diverter piston.....rebleed M.C of air bubbles.......rebleed rear & front calipers!
Last edited by doorgunner; 02-17-2014 at 04:29 AM.
#9
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#10
Melting Slicks
If you think that is the problem, stomp real hard on the brake peddle a couple of times to try and dis-lodge the piston, if that does not work, you will have to remove it & R&R the little buggar.
#11
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I bouught a brand new CPP chrome booster and MC for my 49 chevy....I worked for over a month to get rear brakes...never did. The master cylinder was bleed by me, then by one of the best mechanics around...still no rear brakes.
Finally I got PO'd and bought a rebuilt MC and booster for an s-10 ( like my rear end) and within 30 min of installing these s-10 parts I had back brakes and brakes that stop you quickly. The CPP MC is just like my 68 vette MC but junk.
Make sure you have a good MC....might want to take it off and re-bleed it or put on a new/rebuilt one....the rear section of the MC is always the hardest to bleed.
I would start there and make sure the MC is pouring fluid when a line is disconnected to the rear brakes...just make sure none of the fluid hits the paint or other parts.
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I always remove the lid/cover to the MC when self bleeding.
Finally I got PO'd and bought a rebuilt MC and booster for an s-10 ( like my rear end) and within 30 min of installing these s-10 parts I had back brakes and brakes that stop you quickly. The CPP MC is just like my 68 vette MC but junk.
Make sure you have a good MC....might want to take it off and re-bleed it or put on a new/rebuilt one....the rear section of the MC is always the hardest to bleed.
I would start there and make sure the MC is pouring fluid when a line is disconnected to the rear brakes...just make sure none of the fluid hits the paint or other parts.
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
I always remove the lid/cover to the MC when self bleeding.
Last edited by 68L79; 02-17-2014 at 08:59 AM.
#12
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Sometimes you just have to take matters into your own hands!
Great looking car (Lead sled....LOL)!!!!
I'm headed to the garage now to re-bleed EVERYTHING!
Great looking car (Lead sled....LOL)!!!!
I'm headed to the garage now to re-bleed EVERYTHING!
#13
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About the lead sled...I called Hagerty to up the 49 almost to the vette value....they took a good look at it and said the same as you....looks like a nice lead sled....just put some lake pipes and you will be there...I have never even thought of it as a lead sled...I am not worthy of a lead sled was my thinking...any way...thanks for the compliment.
#14
Racer