news2me

I went down to my local Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts store today looking to pick up oil. I was looking to get Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil Conventional (Silver Bottle) in 10w-30 or 10w-40. The guy behind the counter said that they don't carry it in the weights I wanted. But they do have it in 20w-50. I want to VR-1 because of its high in zink. My car is a '77 with a stock L-82 with 38,000 miles. Is the 20w-50 to heavy of an oil for my engine or will it be just fine...

MIKE80

I run the VR 1 20w-50 for a 385 stroker engine approx 500 hp. For your stock engine Mobile 1 would be fine.

I think Pennzoil has extra zinc.

news2me

Mike, witch Pennzoil has extra zinc.????

MIKE80

I can't remember where I read the testing. Try searching the forums, this subject has been talked about before. I just did a quick search and found this thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...st-data-9.html

7T1vette

20W-50 is too heavy for your engine's needs. 10W-30 in regular oil or 5W-30 in synthetic would be better for you.

BTW, Wal-Mart has better selection and better prices....

ddawson

From Autozone Castrol 0W-30 or M1 0W-40.

If you want VR1 10W-30 I get it from Amazon.

glen242

My local NAPA orders VR-1 10W-30 for me by the case.

FLA-C3

Just bought two cases of vr1 10w30 at my NAPA. They have it in stock and on sale for $4.59/qt this month....part number VAL 205

pacecar620

Unless you're living in the Sahara with a 195+ degree thermostat, 20W-50 is a bit too heavy. It would be fine for an engine which has been set up "loose" but for a stocker, 10W-30 or 40 is fine. I use VR-1 10-30 with a 180 thermostat in FL climate with no problems.

scorpion18z

I live in Florida and have been using Castrol GTX 5w-30 in my 82' Vette, 86' el Camino and 76' Triumph motorcycle for over 20 years with no problems. Big thing is to change your oil regularly and use the biggest filter that will fit on the vehicle (except the motorcycle which has no filter, just a screen to keep the big pieces of metal from circulating).

briankeery

Been using VR-1 20W50 for the last 5 summers, no problem whatsoever. Original engine, never been apart, 142,000 kms.

pacecar620

Hi Brian - I'm not saying that 20W-50 WON'T work, Sure, you could fill the engine with 90W and it'll run. It just won't run very efficiently. Your oil pump will have to work against the added resistance of pushing that heavy oil through some very tiny places. To each his own, but I prefer oil FLOW over oil PRESSURE. Ever try to suck molasses thru a soda straw? Pretty much the same principle. Higher flow carries away heat more quickly. Then of course you have the opposite end of the scale with the 0W-10 stuff recommended by some imports. ZERO weight?? What in he//'s name can you lubricate with THAT?
PS - your avatar looks cold.

LudemJo

If you go to the C3 Tech Performance page on this forum there is a sticky regarding oil weights and testing. I use 0W-30 full synthetic, and have had no issues. I began using that based on some things I had read in that sticky. Massive amounts of information there...enjoy.

John

briankeery

To Pacecar,


here's my logic.........My NAPA here in town can't get the lighter weight VR-1, I have asked and they have requested it - not available on their system. Like most items/prices you guys can take for granted at your local auto parts store/speed shop; they're not as readily available up here - unless of course you want to pay a roughly 300% markup with shipping/duty charges. The trade off for me is I want the higher zinc, don't want to add an additive, and can't get Amsoil, Joe Gibb's, Royal Purple, etc locally.


My car has the original old L48 in it; runs great as is, and I plan on keeping that way. The hot summer days where she may be out for a 2 or 3 hour run have temperatures in the high 90's usually with some high humidity thrown in, so engine temps run around 200. My cooling system was replaced two summers ago (rad, pump, hoses); and I realize that tolerances on my 36 year old, approx. 145,000 km, never opened engine are not what they used to be. The 20W50 may not be ideal; but until the powers that be decide that engine has had enough, and quite honestly I don't see that happening anytime soon, that's what she'll get every fall before she goes to sleep for 6 months.

7T1vette

Whether the outside temp is 30*F or 100*F, the engine still runs at the same temperature (assuming that you have a decent cooling system and the thermostat is the stock unit); so that means NOTHING to help answer the OP's question.

Higher weight oil means LOST POWER from frictional losses in the engine. That's why the manufacturer recommends a SUITABLE oil weight for your engine.

Anyone can run anything they want in THEIR engine. But, it only makes sense to use what it NEEDS. The lubricity and film strength of synthetic oils allows that thinner oils can be used, resulting in equal protection but lower frictional losses (and engine work). But, synthetic oils cost significantly more. So, use the type oil that you think is best; but go with the weight recommended by the mfgr.

pacecar620

Motor oil is probably the most beaten to death issue on the forum. Today's oils, without benefit of ZDDP in their additive package are not adequate for the long-term survival of flat tappet cams and lifters. I reiterate here - long term. With the advent of catalytic converters and roller cams & lifters, zinc additives have been eliminated from modern oils. You like what you use, and I like what I use. If 0W-30 works for you, GREAT. But since my engine was engineered and built for oil containing ZDDP, I think I'll stick with the engineers' master plan. Besides, SBC's have a nasty reputation for eating cam lobes (experience!). Cam changeout is not something I look forward to. Remember too that the cam lobes are not pressure lubed, only the bearings are. The lobes are only splash lubed. Here, have one on me.

pacecar620

EXACTLY my point, thank you.

C66 Racing

I feel that the higher viscosity is only necessary in applications where the bearing gaps have been intentionally increased, or the oil runs at very high temps (260F+). At high oil temps the 50 grade will have similar viscosity to a 30 grade at normal oil temps. In my C5 Z06 at the track, I have a good cooling system and run a 10w30 racing oil (with stock bearing gaps).

AMSOIL does offer this high ZDDP 30 grade oil for applications like the C3:

AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)

More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.