Dustup7T2

After reading recent questions on how individuals choose to tow a C3 from Point A to Point B behind a pickup truck, I thought I'd take a few minutes to explain the procedures that I have learned and employ.

There are a good number of Corvette owners who do not own a car trailer. I understand that and I empathize. In this example, I am dealing only with open, bumper-tag trailers. 5th wheel and most box trailers are usually rated for heavier loads and a subject for another day.

For years, I leased open trailers from various equipment companies when I needed to haul an extra car. Dragging trailers without causing any damage is what this post is intended to show. Ultimately, safety should be paramount because the consequences can be devastating, if not worse.

Let me also state that the methods that I employ, are no guarantee to avoid an accident. That's why they are called accidents; they are unintended results to the best of plans. Your mileage may vary.

That said, let us begin...

My tow vehicle is an old 2000 Ram 1500 4WD powered by the venerable 360 (5.9L) V-8 with an auto OD trans. The clock on mine is currently north of 225K miles but since I purchased it new, have kept up with funadamental maintenance on a regular schedule. This truck is max rated to tow 7000#, with 700# max on the ball itself.

Having a 3/4 ton or more carry capability is always desirable but as long as one does not overload the tow vehicle capacity and the tow vehicle is in appropriate shape, you should be fine.

The tow vehicle must be capable of towing the assigned load to avoid more issues than you may already be dealing with. This is especially critical for trip distances in excess of 300-400-500 miles or more.

Of course, you need to source a trailer. If the trailer is a rental unit or one built with steel, source a tow truck capable of towing a loaded, heavy trailer. Some of the newer half-tons are rated to carry more weight than older half-tons. Again, your mileage may vary.

I selected an all aluminum framed, tandem-axle Featherlite. Yes, it was initially more expensive than a steel framed trailer but the dividends that I have enjoyed, made the purchase worth every nickel. Just in gas savings alone, has kept me very pleased.

It is also very strong and has a 7000# carry rating. Each axle is rated at 3500#. The electric brakes make for a very smooth ride when slowing or backing up.

Notice how I use a trailer hitch with a 4" drop, noted by the red circle. Note that the trailer is horizontal to the pavement; this helps to spread the load across each axle more equally and also improves braking performance.



Since this trailer sits lower to the ground, I enjoy a couple of big benefits: a) the trailer has a lower center-of-gravity for a great ride and b) after extending the 6' ramps, the lowered nose and chin spoiler on the car are not affected when loading. Nice.



I use heavy-duty 3"-wide nylon straps and steel hooks to hold the car by its frame. These were purchased new at a Denver swap meet but can also be found at trailer supply houses or I've also heard, at truck stops. My suggestion is not to use those cheap, skinny 1.5" straps available at Wally World or local auto parts box stores because you will literally, straighten out the hooks sewn onto the end of those straps. You will lose a Corvette. It's always fun until somebody gets hurt. Use approved straps for the combined weight that they will secure.



As obvious as it seems, carefully space the ramps to fit the width of the car. I've seen cars fall off ramps during loading that were incorrectly spaced or secured. Now's not the time to test the car's shocks because cracking the fiberglass will be at risk of messing up your paint job and spoiling your day.



Since I was doing this load alone, I don't have pictures of the car climbing up the ramps. I DO have pics of some tire ramps that I park the front tires on to give extra strap clearance for the chin spoiler/radiator deflector/splitter, whatever the current term for that component is.



For the front strap, note that I insert the hook of the smaller T-hook into the front frame slots, located just behind the front sway bar mounts. I circled the passenger-side frame hole in red.





Big paper clips are a quick and easy way to secure excess strap, so as not to beat the paint off the car, flapping uncontrollably when at speed.



The bigger hooks are used for the rear and set inside the lower frame's corner gusset, under the T/A's forward mount. Looking forward and also circled in red.



I crisscross the straps in the rear for ride stability.







Another benefit with my trailer are the removable fenders. I have the drivers-side fender off during load-unload to facilitate ingress/egress to the car's cabin. No need for NASCAR-style climbing through the window. Very convenient and offers additional leverage if bare legs get exposed to hot sidepipes. Save the ouch.

Before closing the door for the ride, I throw my TKO-600 transmission into neutral and set the parking brake. With the factory interlock on either the Muncie or the TH400, if you want the key out of the ignition, I suppose you would park it normally. I like the idea that there is no internal load to the TREMEC transmission and the sum total is that this issue is probably negligible-to-none, for trans wear.



Note that I have the car centered over the tandem axles, with a slight bias towards the front of the trailer. A poorly loaded car with too much weight forward or rear of the axles may cause a trailer this size to sway during tow. After loading mine this way, you almost forget the trailer is following due to the smoothness.



I have towed this car many times this way and fortunate that each time was uneventful. Not a bad way to transport your favorite C3 for whatever reason: maintenance, shows, moving to a new town, repair or paint shops. Shucks, maybe even just to show your CF friends how some of us do it and went to the lake to see some female eye candy.





Consider leveling out the ride if employing the tandem axle configuration. If nothing else, it is aestheticly pleasing to see this rig heading wherever you're going.

Let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to answer them. Enjoy.

Iconic

I have hauled every conceivable piece of machinery on an 18 wheeler flatbed including john deere backhoes and wheel loaders from the factory and I've hauled my vette on my flatbed all over the country, so that qualifier being said, I just wanted to say I agree with all of your write up. That's exacly how it's done right. Btw, if those straps are dedicated to the same trailer and vette, maybe consider cutting of the excess strap instead of risking that paper clip coming off.

Nice job

4SPDL81

You will be getting some kind of GM tow vehicle in the near future...right?...Good Luck!

Mako72

Eddie, an excellent write up and a timely one for me as I am planning on purchasing a trailer also for my '72.

Dodosmike

Yep. Exactly what I do, except I use different frame mounting points.



Trailer is for sale if anybody is looking....Maco?? Lol


Dodosmike

Hpozzuoli

I rent because I am out of room to store a trailer. I really like the webs that go over the tires that uhaul uses. I tow twice a year. Once down to my dad's barn for winter storage and once back from winter storage.

Tim 1973

The first car show my 73 was entered and first trophy, I use over tire straps, my rear straps are to big for the vette tires so I need to get another set for the rear.

lurch59

I've been told by U Haul I couldn't use their trailers for a Corvette. I'm curious what they told you especially since I have to retrieve my 69 here shortly and would prefer to tow it home from the paint shop.

Tim 1973

I agree, the first time I used a trailer was a Uhaul to bring home my 37 from the farm field I found it in. Loved the over tires straps so when I purchased a trailer I installed E Tracks for using tire straps. Had some straps made for the tires on the 37.

dmaxx3500

great write-up,
,but your car should be 1-2' foward to get some tongue weight,get that box upfront on the tongue,,over the tire straps let the whole car bounce around,while im not a fan of those ''t-hooks' ,tying down to the frame is 1000 times better then over the tires,,if anybody wants an aluminum trailer only buy a ''feather-lite'' ,ive had 2 other lightweight aluminum single trailers and they were junk[keep cracking],i have a ''imperial'' steel 40'-2 car open trailer and a hd 24' single car trailer,these are the best car trailers money can buy

Dustup7T2

Wow, US Icon, now THAT's a super-sized tow rig, right there! Beautiful equipment, all around, and the '66 or '67 SS Nova looks like a real keeper. Of course, I'm biased to the color too but I've always wanted to own one of those factory hot-rods.

Actually, I do put other makes and models on my trailer but if I ever dedicate a set of straps, your suggestion makes perfect sense. Thanks for the professional endorsement too!

If I could, I would. Waiting on this lame economy to pick up the pace before committing.

Glad that I could offer some insight, Mako. Anything to help keep our special cars, special. I've always been a fan of yours so good luck sourcing the right trailer for your needs. Anxious to see what you end up bringing home.

That is a great looking rig, too. As long as you are comfortable in the cars security when being carried, that is all that matters. Thanks for the good words.

I hear you on space requirements and glad that you have a plan that works good for you. Like I said about Dodosmike method on security, whatever keeps the car located on the bed of the trailer, is the biggest priority. Tire webs, hooks and straps or huge magnets underneath... ok, j/k about the magnets but transporting the car securely and safely is the key.

Isn't that cool to get a trophy when the car is still under construction? Good on you to share your success during the build. Gives hope to the guys who are midway through their own builds.

It's my intention to share the knowledge for anyone who has the opportunity to trailer their car, for whatever reason. It's a good thing to read different ways to achieve the same result, like these guys shared, to have a safe and enjoyable experience towing your Corvette.

Thanks for the great help, guys.

Mick71

Great write-up, and your car looks great.

Tim 1973

[QUOTE=Dustup7T2;

Isn't that cool to get a trophy when the car is still under construction? Good on you to share your success during the build. Gives hope to the guys who are midway through their own builds.

It's my intention to share the knowledge for anyone who has the opportunity to trailer their car, for whatever reason. It's a good thing to read different ways to achieve the same result, like these guys shared, to have a safe and enjoyable experience towing your Corvette.

Thanks for the great help, guys.[/QUOTE]

Great write up, Yes it is great to place during the construction, got two trophies that day as I took my 37 Dodge Pickup also and always get one with it.. During the build I entered it as from on the trailer to during the painting. About a 5 year build. This show was only a few miles away so it makes it easy to take more then one vehicle. Your rig looks great..

Tim

Hpozzuoli

I tried reserving over the net years ago when I started doing this. The internet said the car/trailer/truck combo wouldn't work. I then called the biggest uhaul center near me and just said I need a trailer for x date. No problem over the phone? Once you rent you are in the system. Next time you call they pull up the history and you are all set.