pschif8480

Hello All,
Last November, I got a '71 Coupe, Pro Street Style Build. It has a 496 Stroker (originally a Mach IV 454) dynoed at 655 max hp (at 6700 rpm) and 625 max lb/ft torque (at 4700 rpm). Engine was basically completely rebuilt and dynoed March 2013 at Shively Speed Shop in Kentucky. Comprtession is 10:2 and it runs great on 93 Octane pump gas. It has a solid lifter roller with a .700" lift. It has a new B&M Turbo 400 with a Hurst Quarter Stick. The rear end had been built up and gear ratio was advertised at 5.13 (although it may actually be 4.11). I have MT Drag Radials on the back. I put Hooker Header side pipes on it (originally had undercarriage exhaust) with Chambered Exhaust 3' core inserts. The sound is incredible and with the whole engine setup, it is incredibly loud as well.

The shop that has worked on the car is a well-respected "muscle car" garage here on Long Island. It's basically a two-man operation and they do amazing work. One of the owners, whom I respect and like very much, suggested I make the car more streetable by swapping out the 496 with a GMPP 502, custom grind cam, hydraulic roller lifter, changing the gear ratio to 3.87 and some other things. The car is basically set up as a barely streetable drag racer, really made for only two accelerator positions--foot off and foot all the way down although I can cruise on the highway quite nicely at 2500 to 3000 rpm. With the new engine and setup, it would sound less aggressive/nasty (less crackling) and be more user friendly and drivable. But I have to admit since becoming accustomed to the car, I like the drag setup and it handles well on the street/highway although I don't really want to take it on very long trips. Also, the cost of the crate engine is $9K plus and with everything else I may be looking at $13K to $15K total. I think I can live with a drag car--I do enjoy it but I have been told that the spector of poor dependibility looms and I am not a "tuner" nor very mechanical. What would you guys do? Any suggestions? Sorry this post is so damn long

qwank

if it ain't broke, don't fix it

pschif8480

I should have that tatooed on my forearms (or inside my eyelids). I agree.

Tooonz

Call me stupid , but couldn't you take that same 15K and buy a driver and keep both?

pschif8480

Hey Toonz, you are right. I could. My intention when I bought the '71 Pro Street was to have it as a weekend, fair weather cruiser. The suggestion to swap the engine and some other changes was to make it more streetable and dependable on longer distance drives (although I did drive the car about 100 miles one warm Sunday with no problems) with little loss in general performance. But I have not had any problems with the car as is, it handles well, accelerates like a rocket from a dead stop but cruises okay...it just kind of acts and drives like a drag car made streetable. And everybody rolls up their windows when I drive up to a red light

lurch59

I would think an overdrive transmission would help you out a lot. Also the cam sounds a bit much, why not just change the cam out.

The13Bats

Sounds like the shop wants to make a tall dollar off you

I get the impression you dig the car as is, the way you use it well it's not an issue it's not really so street friendly, how many ac cobra are,
My 69 had a full tilt blower on it in the 70's well the kid couldnt get insurence so he took the blower off and dropped a stock intake on it, now the car lost all interest for him, he parked it for 20 plus years,

every one here will give you "their" opinion,
What matters here is "YOUR" opinion...make yourself happy!

pschif8480

Thanks for the suggestion. Maybe a talk with the mechanic who knows the car would be a good idea...the only thing that gives me a concern, really, is the dependability of the engine since it is a very radical setup (i.e. driving long distances, starting up) although I have not had any real issues since I started driving it this spring/summer season. At first it was a little unnerving and took some time getting used to but now I kind of like driving this roaring, spitting beast (and my son thinks it's cool that we get alot of looks and thumbs up). Plus I get the added benefit of a full-body massage at idle.

rajin cajin

I've got to see pictures of this car.

lurch59

I've got an almost identical set up, with a bit more hp and torque. Drove it a couple hundred miles to break it in and then took it across the state, 400 miles without a problem. Got 14-15 mpg too. Take ear plugs or you'll go deaf in the ear closest to the side pipes!
Why don't you think it will be reliable?

Gordonm

Pull the cam out of it and put I a good Hyd roller cam. Ditch the high rear end ratio and put I an overdrive transmission. Probably looking at maybe 4K in parts. This will make it more street able and better for long distance cruising. You will probably lose 100 HP maybe. Honestly for the street that is plenty and you will have a butt load of torque with that many cubic inches. Want more drivability put a fuel injection unit on it. You'll drive edit across country no problem.

pschif8480

Well said, Mistuh Bats, and your sad tale is quite illustrative. Yeah, I do dig the car as is which is why I was stressing a bit about what to do. But I do appreciate the feedback from everyone and hearing from more experienced, knowledgeable people helps me to get a broader picture of possible options and to think "outside the box" (to use a well-worn cliche. Thanks.

pschif8480

In talking with one of the shop owners at the muscle car shop that has done work on the car (they cleaned up electrical wiring throughout the car, installed new headers and side exhaust pipes, installed new Weld wheels and swapped bias ply front tires for radials), he felt that the car would be less prone to have potential problems, such as overheating and wear and tear, and would dependably start and have a longer life and be generally more drivable long distances (as opposed to being thoroughly shaken and stirred within a short distance), without losing much in the way of performance, by doing an engine swap to a 502, hydraulic lifter, higher rear gear ratio and some other changes. It really is more of the opinion of this gentleman whom I do respect and trust in his knowledge. I have not had any problems, even driving relatively long distance with it. But the idea was seeded in my head and I do see that a less radical setup would be likely to require less maintenance and would potentially last longer. What's your setup and how long have you had the car?

pschif8480

I'd be glad to post some pics although I am not one of the most internet literate people--hell, I was the last hold out in my family to get a smartphone and I just got an iphone last month. My son knows how to transfer photos from the phone to the internet. I'll try to get some pics up soon after we get to the garage where I keep the car.

hail to R3

So what is streetable? Well everyone has their own definition. If you don't have a problem with it now, don't change it. If would like to make it more friendly, there is no need to over pay for a crate 502, cam swap (hydraulic cam and components CAN be done) with either rear gear or trans would accomplish the same thing for much less money. If that isn't enough do carb then intake. But it is your car...you need to be happy with it

lurch59

I've got a Mark Jones engine (VortecPro) 496 with AFR heads, it makes 690 hp and 690 tq at 6100 rpm. TKO 600 with 0.64 overdrive, scatter shield, McCleod clutch, billet flywheel, Tom's 12 bolt rear 3.90 gears with 3 1/2" half shafts, etc. You better make sure the IRS is up to taking all that torque! I do have a hydraulic roller cam, Hooker headers with 2 1/8 primaries and 4" side pipes. I don't overheat, run an aluminum radiator with Evans coolant. I ran it for a couple of months before I took it in for paint and new interior. It was decently streetable, it scared women and small children....

Robert Thomas

My limited experience is if you detune the engine, you'll kick yourself and want the power back. You can live will the little inconveniences of a high performance engine but dread the weaker one. YMMV.

BOSTONCAMARO

do what you like as others mentioned.....for me id use that for the track and shows....buy a nice driver to use on trips...or sell it buy someones built all around supercar...modern suspension, t56 six speed, LS Series supercharged built C 3

pschif8480

Excellent Point. What is considered streetable? Is it just a car that covers state and local safety and emissions standards? A car that is relatively quiet with a smooth idle and a higher gear ratio (less rpms)? A 12+ quarter mile car? Interesting.

pschif8480

Yes, very similar in hp and torque. What year is your car? One major difference is my rear gears are 5.13 (from what I was told by the seller). It has a Be Cool Aluminum Radiator with dual electric fans with trans cooler. As well, it has an oil cooler (again, from what the seller said). And I was advised that the car had a new "built up" rear end, new suspension bushings, springs and Bilstein shocks. I have the same 4" Hooker side pipes. What, if any, inserts do you have in the side pipes? I guess scaring women and children (and menacing civilians at red lights) goes with the territory running a big block with side pipes.