Front end bushing rebuild 1977 Corvette
11-18-2014, 05:42 AM
#41
Great progress with the rebuild, I am currently doing the same to my '75.
But instead of painting all the parts after media blasting I powder coated everything.
I bought a powder coating set from harbor freight for 60$ and a used oven for 20$. and the parts come out great.
But instead of painting all the parts after media blasting I powder coated everything.
I bought a powder coating set from harbor freight for 60$ and a used oven for 20$. and the parts come out great.
11-19-2014, 07:23 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Great progress with the rebuild, I am currently doing the same to my '75.
But instead of painting all the parts after media blasting I powder coated everything.
I bought a powder coating set from harbor freight for 60$ and a used oven for 20$. and the parts come out great.
But instead of painting all the parts after media blasting I powder coated everything.
I bought a powder coating set from harbor freight for 60$ and a used oven for 20$. and the parts come out great.
11-21-2014, 09:19 PM
#43
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It was a heat wave this evening about 35 degrees outside when I decided to quit today. 
Sand Blasted for about 2 hours this evening on the Upper and Lower Control Arms after I got home from work. Almost done cleaning them up for paint. Worst part about cleaning them up is Tar and dried on Grease which has to be scraped off by hand and you do not always see it until you sand blast the part. Sand does not remove this stuff no matter how much you want it too. I have worn out a wire wheel on my variable speed drill also trying to get the TAR and Rust the Sand Blaster cannot remove off parts during this project. Need to buy a new one tomorrow to finish up cleaning the parts.
I will finish up sand blasting tomorrow and paint the Control Arms since I am done scraping off the tar and grease. 10 hour day is enough for me on a Friday
Sand Blasted for about 2 hours this evening on the Upper and Lower Control Arms after I got home from work. Almost done cleaning them up for paint. Worst part about cleaning them up is Tar and dried on Grease which has to be scraped off by hand and you do not always see it until you sand blast the part. Sand does not remove this stuff no matter how much you want it too. I have worn out a wire wheel on my variable speed drill also trying to get the TAR and Rust the Sand Blaster cannot remove off parts during this project. Need to buy a new one tomorrow to finish up cleaning the parts.
I will finish up sand blasting tomorrow and paint the Control Arms since I am done scraping off the tar and grease. 10 hour day is enough for me on a Friday
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-21-2014 at 10:27 PM.
11-21-2014, 10:51 PM
#44
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The last of my bolts came in this evening for the Upper Control Mounts. I attempted to refurbish the old ones but the Knurl on my original bolts were so rusted they would not hold when I put the Upper Control Arms back on the car for Alignment. They would have needed to be held on both sides which is near impossible for the Alignment Tech. Tested the new bolts and they will need to be hammered in which I will show during reassembly with a few pictures.
11-22-2014, 06:46 PM
#45
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Finally finished sand blasting and painting the Upper and Lower Control Arms and Sway Bar today.
After Sand Blasting this morning I wiped down all the Control Arms with Brake Cleaner since I did not pick up any acetone. Brake cleaner works great in place of acetone to clean up parts since it removes all the dirt and oils then does not leave behind a residue.
I decided to use a Rust inhibiting primer on the Control Arms and temporarily put them in my living room while the primer dried since it was about 50 degrees outside. I put 2 coats of primer on each.
Than I put 2 coats Black after the primer dried indoors for 45 minutes. Can says top coat within an hour of priming the parts. Yup there is still snow on the ground since we had snow not long ago.
I attempted to use a paint stripper on the Sway Bar with no luck so ended up breaking out a palm sander with a 40 grit sand paper to smooth out the paint then get most of down to metal and wiped all the parts down with brake cleaner since I did not pick up any acetone to clean them up. This was a waste of time since this paint was not coming off with the stripper. Yup still more snow in the alley way outside the garage door.
Moved all the parts indoors so the paint can cure at room temperature and here they will sit until Tuesday Morning.
Tomorrow I will attempt to remove the broken sway bar bolt that broke off in the welded body nut with a set of Vice Grips if I cannot back it out from the top then I will drill it out using about 3 different sized drill bits starting out fairly small and working my way up. Then I will tap the threads. I will take some pictures if I have to drill it out.
Tuesday I will take my Upper and Lower Control Arms down to the One Stop Tire and Auto Shop to press in the bushings.
After Sand Blasting this morning I wiped down all the Control Arms with Brake Cleaner since I did not pick up any acetone. Brake cleaner works great in place of acetone to clean up parts since it removes all the dirt and oils then does not leave behind a residue.
I decided to use a Rust inhibiting primer on the Control Arms and temporarily put them in my living room while the primer dried since it was about 50 degrees outside. I put 2 coats of primer on each.
Than I put 2 coats Black after the primer dried indoors for 45 minutes. Can says top coat within an hour of priming the parts. Yup there is still snow on the ground since we had snow not long ago.
I attempted to use a paint stripper on the Sway Bar with no luck so ended up breaking out a palm sander with a 40 grit sand paper to smooth out the paint then get most of down to metal and wiped all the parts down with brake cleaner since I did not pick up any acetone to clean them up. This was a waste of time since this paint was not coming off with the stripper. Yup still more snow in the alley way outside the garage door.
Moved all the parts indoors so the paint can cure at room temperature and here they will sit until Tuesday Morning.
Tomorrow I will attempt to remove the broken sway bar bolt that broke off in the welded body nut with a set of Vice Grips if I cannot back it out from the top then I will drill it out using about 3 different sized drill bits starting out fairly small and working my way up. Then I will tap the threads. I will take some pictures if I have to drill it out.
Tuesday I will take my Upper and Lower Control Arms down to the One Stop Tire and Auto Shop to press in the bushings.
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-22-2014 at 06:51 PM.
11-23-2014, 07:01 PM
#46
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well I ended up having to drill out the Sway Bar Bolt and tap the threads. I do not think an Easy Out would have gotten this bolt out since it was so rusted frozen in place. So Drilling and Tapping it was the best solution I could think of.
By the way it is snowing out
I first took a Sharpie to mark the center of the bolt then use a Center Punch to mark the drill hole so the drill bit would not slip. You have to be in the center of the Bolt to Drill it out properly otherwise you will destroy the threads and not be able to reuse them. Heli Coil will not work on threads with this much stress on them.
You cannot see the mark but this is what I was up against.
Next I used a fairly small drill bit and marked the depth of the Nut so I did not have to drill any deeper then I had to.
Drilled out the hole using 6 different size Bits
First few bits used got me this far.
Finished up with a 1/4 inch Drill Bit
Than tapped the Threads
I will not trust the threads so when I put the Bolt back in I will put a nut on the top side since this is going to hold a lot of pressure when turning on the Sway Bar. I will clean up the area on both sides and hit it with some fresh paint to prevent it from rusting any further in the future.
This was the last thing I needed to perform before pressing in the new Bushings on Tuesday. Since I am off all week I will use tomorrow to relax
By the way it is snowing out
I first took a Sharpie to mark the center of the bolt then use a Center Punch to mark the drill hole so the drill bit would not slip. You have to be in the center of the Bolt to Drill it out properly otherwise you will destroy the threads and not be able to reuse them. Heli Coil will not work on threads with this much stress on them.
You cannot see the mark but this is what I was up against.
Next I used a fairly small drill bit and marked the depth of the Nut so I did not have to drill any deeper then I had to.
Drilled out the hole using 6 different size Bits
First few bits used got me this far.
Finished up with a 1/4 inch Drill Bit
Than tapped the Threads
I will not trust the threads so when I put the Bolt back in I will put a nut on the top side since this is going to hold a lot of pressure when turning on the Sway Bar. I will clean up the area on both sides and hit it with some fresh paint to prevent it from rusting any further in the future.
This was the last thing I needed to perform before pressing in the new Bushings on Tuesday. Since I am off all week I will use tomorrow to relax
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-24-2014 at 09:40 PM.
11-23-2014, 10:33 PM
#47
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Since I could not find a 2 Inch Conduit like I have seen on many other posts from my research chose to use an Angle Iron to support the Control Arms while I press in the Bushings.
Beers, Cigars and Working on Cars are some of my vices and I tend to do all 3 at the same time.
Measured them with my Square.
Took that measurement and applied it to the Angle Iron.
Put Lines on the Angle Iron.
I used a File to notch out the steel so my Sawzall blade did not jump around. I can cut straight lines with a Sawzall
Since it one of my favorite tools. Notching the steel is key if you do not have other tools to cut with because the blade will jump around unless you notch it first.
Cut the Angle Iron with my Sawzall.
Measured the Upper Control Arm again with my Square.
Transferred the measurement to the Angle Iron
Again used a File to cut a notch in the steel
Again used my Sawzall to cut the steel.
Wrapped the edges with Duct Tape so I prevent some scratching of the paint
You know that stuff with over 1000 uses.
Did this for both Angle Iron Supports I made for the Upper and Lower Control Arms before I Push in the Bushings. If you do not support them while pressing in the bushings you run the risk of bending the Control Arms since you are using Hydraulic pressures up to 20 Tons or more depending on the press you have access to.
Done working for the evening and will pick it up again on Tuesday when I visit the One Stop Tire and Auto center my buddy in my car club owns.
Monday is a relaxation day since I have other chores to run
Beers, Cigars and Working on Cars are some of my vices and I tend to do all 3 at the same time.
Measured them with my Square.
Took that measurement and applied it to the Angle Iron.
Put Lines on the Angle Iron.
I used a File to notch out the steel so my Sawzall blade did not jump around. I can cut straight lines with a Sawzall
Since it one of my favorite tools. Notching the steel is key if you do not have other tools to cut with because the blade will jump around unless you notch it first.
Cut the Angle Iron with my Sawzall.
Measured the Upper Control Arm again with my Square.
Transferred the measurement to the Angle Iron
Again used a File to cut a notch in the steel
Again used my Sawzall to cut the steel.
Wrapped the edges with Duct Tape so I prevent some scratching of the paint
You know that stuff with over 1000 uses.
Did this for both Angle Iron Supports I made for the Upper and Lower Control Arms before I Push in the Bushings. If you do not support them while pressing in the bushings you run the risk of bending the Control Arms since you are using Hydraulic pressures up to 20 Tons or more depending on the press you have access to.
Done working for the evening and will pick it up again on Tuesday when I visit the One Stop Tire and Auto center my buddy in my car club owns.
Monday is a relaxation day since I have other chores to run
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-23-2014 at 10:38 PM.
11-24-2014, 08:56 PM
#48
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Relaxed today and started to put all my parts in a box to take them over to Shop where the Hydraulic Press is on Tuesday Morning. Will take pictures of me installing the Poly Urethane Bushings proper way to use the Silicone grease the on parts and some of the setup while I press in the sleeves.
Getting ahead of schedule again so hoping to have some of the Assembly Work tomorrow afternoon and goal is the car back together again by Turkey Day so I can test drive it on Friday.
Because the Weather Gods here in Colorado are the worst at predicting Weather it has changed 3 times since I started to look at it on Saturday for the Weeks Forecast. It snowed again today and they predicted it this morning. Yup I can Look outside and say it Might Snow like they do when it starts to fall. We had about 1/2 inch of snow today.
Getting ahead of schedule again so hoping to have some of the Assembly Work tomorrow afternoon and goal is the car back together again by Turkey Day so I can test drive it on Friday.
Because the Weather Gods here in Colorado are the worst at predicting Weather it has changed 3 times since I started to look at it on Saturday for the Weeks Forecast. It snowed again today and they predicted it this morning. Yup I can Look outside and say it Might Snow like they do when it starts to fall. We had about 1/2 inch of snow today.
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-24-2014 at 09:21 PM.
11-25-2014, 08:51 PM
#49
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It took awhile today to Press in the Bushings so only took a couple of pictures of it installing the Upper Control Arm Bushings. I had to fight with the press a bit to get the bushings install so only got the 2 Upper Control Arms and one of the Lower Control Arms done today. The last Lower Control Arm pissed me off so I had to walk away and take it up another day like tomorrow. 
11-25-2014, 09:08 PM
#50
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Took all my parts home and laid them out on the Work Bench to start installing the Poly Urethane Bushings on the 2 Upper and 1 Lower Control Arms Lots of pictures here as I grease up the bushings and install them.
Greased up the Bushing with the supplied Silicone Grease. They say apply it lightly and I say you can wipe off the Excess Grease.
I first greased up the mounting brackets and bushings
I first push the Poly Bushings into the Outer Sleeves then installed the Inner Sleeves. Found this to be the easiest way to install the new bushings after trying it both ways.
I then installed the End Caps and moved to parts up and down to feel for play and see if my End Cap Bolts were tight enough. You want to make sure you crank down on them hard enough so the bolts do not back out when moving the Control on the new Poly Urethane Bushings.
After that I reinstalled the Ball Joints.
Moved on to the next Upper Control Arm and put Silicone grease on the Mounting Brackets.
Again Greased up the new Bushings and slid them into the Outer Sleeve
Greased up the Inner Sleeve than slid it into the Control Arm.
Than tightened up the End Cap Bolts and cranked down on then so they do not back out.
Reinstalled the next Ball Joint into the Upper Control Arm
Installed a Grease Cap on the Grease Zerk.
Greased up the Bushing with the supplied Silicone Grease. They say apply it lightly and I say you can wipe off the Excess Grease.
I first greased up the mounting brackets and bushings
I first push the Poly Bushings into the Outer Sleeves then installed the Inner Sleeves. Found this to be the easiest way to install the new bushings after trying it both ways.
I then installed the End Caps and moved to parts up and down to feel for play and see if my End Cap Bolts were tight enough. You want to make sure you crank down on them hard enough so the bolts do not back out when moving the Control on the new Poly Urethane Bushings.
After that I reinstalled the Ball Joints.
Moved on to the next Upper Control Arm and put Silicone grease on the Mounting Brackets.
Again Greased up the new Bushings and slid them into the Outer Sleeve
Greased up the Inner Sleeve than slid it into the Control Arm.
Than tightened up the End Cap Bolts and cranked down on then so they do not back out.
Reinstalled the next Ball Joint into the Upper Control Arm
Installed a Grease Cap on the Grease Zerk.
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-25-2014 at 09:25 PM.
11-25-2014, 09:36 PM
#51
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I moved on the the Lower Control I got done today and mounted it in my Vice
Laid out the parts I am installing. Ran out of Beer so sucked into the GFs Wine.
Before moving on I attempted to run the End Cap Bolts into each side of the Mounting Bracket Arm and could not run it into this side easily so I retapped the threads.
Grease up the Poly Bushings
Slid them into the Outer Sleeve after putting a little Grease on the Outer Sleeve and Mounting Bracket
Greased the Inner Sleeve
Than slid them into place and used a block of wood to push them in.
Installed the End Caps and Bolts Than wiped off the Excess Grease
Installed new Bumpers since the old ones just needed to be replaced
Tomorrow I will work on the last Lower Control Arm again and hopefully the Press will not **** me off again
Laid out the parts I am installing. Ran out of Beer so sucked into the GFs Wine.
Before moving on I attempted to run the End Cap Bolts into each side of the Mounting Bracket Arm and could not run it into this side easily so I retapped the threads.
Grease up the Poly Bushings
Slid them into the Outer Sleeve after putting a little Grease on the Outer Sleeve and Mounting Bracket
Greased the Inner Sleeve
Than slid them into place and used a block of wood to push them in.
Installed the End Caps and Bolts Than wiped off the Excess Grease
Installed new Bumpers since the old ones just needed to be replaced
Tomorrow I will work on the last Lower Control Arm again and hopefully the Press will not **** me off again
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-25-2014 at 11:27 PM.
11-25-2014, 10:59 PM
#52
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Since I am going to touch up the paint tomorrow on the new Bumper and I also installed the Ball Joint and new Zerk Cover I taped them off this evening.
Tomorrow I can start to install the parts on the Car and pictures to follow my progress. You will learn what I have learned along the way and already have a Plan for what needs to be done. Will show pictures on How the Lower Control Arm that pissed me off and will take a few pictures on how I overcame the issues. Still thinking about it and pounding away to get it done. 
Tomorrow I can start to install the parts on the Car and pictures to follow my progress. You will learn what I have learned along the way and already have a Plan for what needs to be done. Will show pictures on How the Lower Control Arm that pissed me off and will take a few pictures on how I overcame the issues.
Still thinking about it and pounding away to get it done.
11-26-2014, 07:00 PM
#53
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I am in the Home Stretch and finished pressing in the Bushing Sleeves on the Drivers Side Lower Control Arm this afternoon at my buddies shop. It was a pain in the butt but taking a day off always helps.
I mounted the Lower Control into my vice and laid out the parts i was about to install.
I attempted to run the new Control Arm Bolts in and they were not going in very well so I re-tapped the Threads to clean out the rust on both sides.
I greased up the new Ply Bushings and pressed them in on both sides.
I greased up the Inner Sleeves then pushed them into place with a block of wood on both sides.
Then I installed the End Cap Bolts.
Installed the new Bumper and Ball Joint than also a new Zerk Cap.
Since it Turkey Day tomorrow I will limit the amount of work I perform and just clean up the garage than prepare it for Friday when I reassemble the front suspension.
You all have a Happy Thanksgiving since I will not be posting any updates until Friday
I mounted the Lower Control into my vice and laid out the parts i was about to install.
I attempted to run the new Control Arm Bolts in and they were not going in very well so I re-tapped the Threads to clean out the rust on both sides.
I greased up the new Ply Bushings and pressed them in on both sides.
I greased up the Inner Sleeves then pushed them into place with a block of wood on both sides.
Then I installed the End Cap Bolts.
Installed the new Bumper and Ball Joint than also a new Zerk Cap.
Since it Turkey Day tomorrow I will limit the amount of work I perform and just clean up the garage than prepare it for Friday when I reassemble the front suspension.
You all have a Happy Thanksgiving since I will not be posting any updates until Friday
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-26-2014 at 07:08 PM.
11-27-2014, 06:35 PM
#54
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well I could not resist working on the Corvette today
The Upper Control Arm Bumpers were non existent so I purchased new ones. I lightly greased them so they would slide in easier with Silicone Grease because Petrolium Based Greases will damage the rubber. Gave them a few twists clockwise to slide them in on each side.
Next I installed the Upper Control Arms. I Slide them into the car and installed the new Studs.
Could not take a picture of pounding in the new Studs and hammered them in with a really long Punch then slide the Control Arm on to the Stud.
Since I am installing all new Shims I matched up the old Shims to the new Shims. As you can see the old ones do not match so it bugged me and I bought all new Shims.
Installed the nuts holding both sides with a ratcheting 11/16 wrench on the nut and a 5/8 Socket on the Stud Bolt. Love these Ratcheting Wrenches wish I bought them before I disassembled the car. Saw them on Sale at Home Depot so bought them.
Did this on both sides so I have competed installing both Upper Control Arms in about 40 Minutes since I had to wrench them in because of the limited room with the fan shroud and power steering pump as obstacles to work around.
Done working for the day and the Turkey is in the Oven
Tomorrow I will install the Lower Control Arms, Springs, Spindle Assemblies, Sway Bar and Brakes. Hoping to have it fully assembled tomorrow.
The Upper Control Arm Bumpers were non existent so I purchased new ones. I lightly greased them so they would slide in easier with Silicone Grease because Petrolium Based Greases will damage the rubber. Gave them a few twists clockwise to slide them in on each side.
Next I installed the Upper Control Arms. I Slide them into the car and installed the new Studs.
Could not take a picture of pounding in the new Studs and hammered them in with a really long Punch then slide the Control Arm on to the Stud.
Since I am installing all new Shims I matched up the old Shims to the new Shims. As you can see the old ones do not match so it bugged me and I bought all new Shims.
Installed the nuts holding both sides with a ratcheting 11/16 wrench on the nut and a 5/8 Socket on the Stud Bolt. Love these Ratcheting Wrenches wish I bought them before I disassembled the car. Saw them on Sale at Home Depot so bought them.
Did this on both sides so I have competed installing both Upper Control Arms in about 40 Minutes since I had to wrench them in because of the limited room with the fan shroud and power steering pump as obstacles to work around.
Done working for the day and the Turkey is in the Oven
Tomorrow I will install the Lower Control Arms, Springs, Spindle Assemblies, Sway Bar and Brakes. Hoping to have it fully assembled tomorrow.
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-27-2014 at 06:46 PM.
11-28-2014, 07:17 PM
#55
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well I got the passenger side completed today. Decided I was too sore to do both sides this afternoon.
I installed the Lower Control Arm than laid out the rest of the parts I will be installing
Jacked the Lower Control Arm and Seated the new Spring into place.
Installed the Wilcox inspired Spring Compressor than jacked up the spring some more
Slide Caliper back into the Bracket because you need to do this step now otherwise you will not get it over there once the Control Arms are Mounted to the Spindle Assembly. Than using the Spring Compressor along with the jack Tightened down the Ball Joints to the Spindle Assembly
Reinstalled the Tie Rod to the Spindle Assembly.
Wiped off the Excess Grease since I had to jam a set of Channel Locks into the Tie Rod End since it was spinning. Then installed all new Cotter Pins into the Tie Rod and Upper and Lower Ball Joints. Then installed the Shock. This side will be complete after I sand the glaze off the Brake Rotor, Grease the Bearings and reinstall it. No picture here since it was too hard to take.
Finished working for the day
I installed the Lower Control Arm than laid out the rest of the parts I will be installing
Jacked the Lower Control Arm and Seated the new Spring into place.
Installed the Wilcox inspired Spring Compressor than jacked up the spring some more
Slide Caliper back into the Bracket because you need to do this step now otherwise you will not get it over there once the Control Arms are Mounted to the Spindle Assembly. Than using the Spring Compressor along with the jack Tightened down the Ball Joints to the Spindle Assembly
Reinstalled the Tie Rod to the Spindle Assembly.
Wiped off the Excess Grease since I had to jam a set of Channel Locks into the Tie Rod End since it was spinning. Then installed all new Cotter Pins into the Tie Rod and Upper and Lower Ball Joints. Then installed the Shock. This side will be complete after I sand the glaze off the Brake Rotor, Grease the Bearings and reinstall it. No picture here since it was too hard to take.
Finished working for the day
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-28-2014 at 07:36 PM.
11-28-2014, 11:57 PM
#56
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well could not leave it even though I am tired and sore than had to meet my goal of getting the Sway Bar installed today.
So I installed the Drivers Side Lower Control Arm.
Seated the new Spring and forgot to tell you guys on the lower half of the spring set the end of the spring towards you because the top side will set in easier. Again another tip notice I put a rag on my Jack to avoid scratching the paint. better picture this time around.
Installed the Spindle Assembly onto the Lower Control Arm.
A little Dark jacked it up until the Upper Control Arm Ball Joint started to move into the Spindle Assembly. Than cranked down on the Upper and Lower Ball Joints into the Spindle Assembly.
Used the Wilcox inspired Spring Compressor for safety.
Installed the Tie Rod and installed new Cotter Pins on the Tie Rod and Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Than all installed
I than installed the Sway Bar and did not tighten up the Bracket Bolts yet but set them in place
Installed the Drivers Side Sway Bar Assembly.
Installed the passenger Side Sway Bar Assembly.
Cranked down and set the Brackets in place
Now all I need to do is Scuff the Glazing off the Rotors, then install the Rotors and Brake pads than bleed the front brakes tomorrow.
So I installed the Drivers Side Lower Control Arm.
Seated the new Spring and forgot to tell you guys on the lower half of the spring set the end of the spring towards you because the top side will set in easier. Again another tip notice I put a rag on my Jack to avoid scratching the paint. better picture this time around.
Installed the Spindle Assembly onto the Lower Control Arm.
A little Dark jacked it up until the Upper Control Arm Ball Joint started to move into the Spindle Assembly. Than cranked down on the Upper and Lower Ball Joints into the Spindle Assembly.
Used the Wilcox inspired Spring Compressor for safety.
Installed the Tie Rod and installed new Cotter Pins on the Tie Rod and Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Than all installed
I than installed the Sway Bar and did not tighten up the Bracket Bolts yet but set them in place
Installed the Drivers Side Sway Bar Assembly.
Installed the passenger Side Sway Bar Assembly.
Cranked down and set the Brackets in place
Now all I need to do is Scuff the Glazing off the Rotors, then install the Rotors and Brake pads than bleed the front brakes tomorrow.
Last edited by MakoJoe; 11-29-2014 at 12:03 AM.
11-29-2014, 05:32 PM
#57
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Finally Finished up today installing the Rotors and Brakes
Since this stuff takes about 10 to 15 minutes to dry I cleaned up the Brake Pads then Sprayed them with a Brake Quiet Stuff. Remarked them for inner and outer pads so they went back in the way they came out.
Than I scuffed the Rotors with a Rotating Sander to remove the Glazing. Covering the bearings to keep the dust out.
Repacked the Bearings with Grease and installed the Rotors onto the Spindle Assembly, Than installed the Calipers and Brake Pads.
When installing the Spindle Nuts you only need to hand tighten them or you will overheat your bearings with too much friction. Feel for play and spin the rotor check the nut again hand tightening it.
Install a new Cotter Pin and Dust Cap than install the Brake Pads.
Installed the Fan, Alternator and Air Intake Snorkel
Cleaned up the Fan and gave it a fresh 3 coats of paint.
Installed the Alternator and did not make it very tight since I will need to spin the fan while reinstalling it. Than installed the fan and checked the Belt Tension on the Alternator Belt. It should move about 1/8 of an inch when you press down on it. Anymore it will flap around and If you make your belts too tight they will prematurely wear out your Water Pump Bearings.
Installed the Air intake Snorkel and Cold Weather Heater Hose
Fired up the car and let it warm up then checked to see f I needed to Bleed the Brakes. Yup they were very Squishy so will have to call up a buddy to assist with the Brakes.
Other than having to Bleed the Brakes I am done with this project.
It took me as predicted about 2 months to complete
Since this stuff takes about 10 to 15 minutes to dry I cleaned up the Brake Pads then Sprayed them with a Brake Quiet Stuff. Remarked them for inner and outer pads so they went back in the way they came out.
Than I scuffed the Rotors with a Rotating Sander to remove the Glazing. Covering the bearings to keep the dust out.
Repacked the Bearings with Grease and installed the Rotors onto the Spindle Assembly, Than installed the Calipers and Brake Pads.
When installing the Spindle Nuts you only need to hand tighten them or you will overheat your bearings with too much friction. Feel for play and spin the rotor check the nut again hand tightening it.
Install a new Cotter Pin and Dust Cap than install the Brake Pads.
Installed the Fan, Alternator and Air Intake Snorkel
Cleaned up the Fan and gave it a fresh 3 coats of paint.
Installed the Alternator and did not make it very tight since I will need to spin the fan while reinstalling it. Than installed the fan and checked the Belt Tension on the Alternator Belt. It should move about 1/8 of an inch when you press down on it. Anymore it will flap around and If you make your belts too tight they will prematurely wear out your Water Pump Bearings.
Installed the Air intake Snorkel and Cold Weather Heater Hose
Fired up the car and let it warm up then checked to see f I needed to Bleed the Brakes. Yup they were very Squishy so will have to call up a buddy to assist with the Brakes.
Other than having to Bleed the Brakes I am done with this project.
It took me as predicted about 2 months to complete
Last edited by MakoJoe; 12-06-2014 at 06:41 PM.
12-04-2014, 08:04 PM
#58
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I bled the Brakes out on Sunday morning then took it for about a 10 mile drive to test it out. Cornered Awesome and front suspension felt so much tighter than barely felt the bumps on the front suspension. Let go of the steering wheel and she still tracked striaght !!!! 
Just need to get it aligned before I drive it any further otherwise I will add tire wear.
Just need to get it aligned before I drive it any further otherwise I will add tire wear.
12-06-2014, 06:54 PM
#59
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Before I get my Whole suspension sent to my buddies shop for an Alignment I am going to install new Adjusting Strut Rods on the Rear Suspension than I will also purchase a new Toe Shim kit for the trailing arms with new pins and shims. I do not like the center mount adjust which is why I will purchase the new Adjustable Strut Rods.
Purchasing the parts this evening so I have them for next weekend and have scheduled to have the alignment done on the 19th of December.
The rear of the car has never had an Alignment since I bought it in April of 2013 so I feel it is important to have front and rear aligned.
New post coming as on how I install these new the new Adjustable Strut Arms. I am sure with all the rust I have overcome this far will be an experience. Intend to do this work on a 4 Post Lift at my company shop because they have better tools and I have to be there anyways standing by on a Saturday during a Computer Systems upgrade.
Purchasing the parts this evening so I have them for next weekend and have scheduled to have the alignment done on the 19th of December.
The rear of the car has never had an Alignment since I bought it in April of 2013 so I feel it is important to have front and rear aligned.
New post coming as on how I install these new the new Adjustable Strut Arms. I am sure with all the rust I have overcome this far will be an experience. Intend to do this work on a 4 Post Lift at my company shop because they have better tools and I have to be there anyways standing by on a Saturday during a Computer Systems upgrade.
10-12-2015, 01:11 PM
#60
Drifting
I really hate to be the guy that comes along afterwards and say you did something wrong but.... you bolted the upper ball joints in wrong. They go on top of the arm, not underneath.