68vetteman

Just a quick question for the stroker engine guys. Does your engine sound like a diesel engine at idle? I have the speck sheet and everything looks good. Runs great, powerful and balanced good. Roller cam and rockers. 6" connecting rods and mahle forged pistons. Is this noise from the headers? Loudest at front of the car. 68 Vetteman

Sunstroked

well I would say no mine does not sound like a diesel engine. It has a pretty rowdy roller cam as well. Headers, 2.5" duals thru magna flows. Are u sure its not detonation? Any idea what your static compression is? Aluminum or iron heads? Whats your initial timing? Ive got mine at 16' btdc, may even advance it another few degrees when I get it out on the road.

68vetteman

Sure there is no detonation. 9.0 comp ratio. Cast iron fuelie heads. I can't tell what the timing is because the engine builder got me the wrong harmonic balancer. I have the 68 timing cover. 1000 rpm and the engine sounds good.
68 Vetteman

PeteZO6

There are plenty of threads here, and you can use Google, to learn how to find TDC for #1 cylinder. You can make your 0 (zero) mark on the balancer and with a little more work, mark it for, say 15 degrees either side. That's not necessary if you have a dial-back timing light.
No excuseS for not setting your timing, or adjusting the curve. Your engine will. Thank you.

Pete

68vetteman

If I would have known then what I know now I would have put a newer harmonic balancer on to work with the newer timing chain cover. I have thought about a degree tape but a new balancer might be a winter project.

tektrans

How did your builder verify timing?

Fastfrank_z28

It should not sound like a diesel. Id inspect it.

BKbroiler

If I were you I would not start the engine again until I was ready to set the timing.

68vetteman

The builder provided the short block and I did the rest. I know that I can be a little "backward" at times but I set the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and set the dist. rotor to #1 and it was close enough to start. This is where "backward" comes in, I set the timing by the sound of the engine and drive the car while advancing the timing till it knocks , then back it off. This would be so much easier with the correct balancer. I'm not afraid to drive the car like this because it runs and drives great. I wonder if the combination of 6" connecting rods and racing pistons is the cause. I think the wrist pin on a standard piston is offset to reduce piston slap. The pistons I have are centered to reduce friction, so I was told. Does this sound logical?
68 Vetteman

Sunstroked

So I take it that the engine is "clattering" at idle? Although I left my engine build to a local guy with a great rep, I do believe forged pistons will be a bit looser in the cylinder until warmed up. Maybe you are hearing that? I too have a forged rotating assy. It is slightly noisier when cold, also I wonder how much of what you are hearing is valve train? I have heard of others timing in the way u described. But sure would be nice to know exactly wouldn't it? Sounds like u know what detonation is, by your timing method.

68vetteman

The engine is quieter once warmed up. For the roller cam I have the hydraulic roller lifters. Set by feeling drag on the pushrods at low point on cam, turn adjusting nut 3/4 turn and tighten the poly locks. I have 4000+ miles on the engine running as set.
68 Vetteman