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Happy Thanksgiving to you as well.
I'm about to do the same thing. I need to remove the pillar trim first.
Also I need to pull the windshield stainless steel trim first. I'm currently looking for a thread / post for doing this.
Good luck and be sure to show the after results pic's of your interior.
Aren't Vettes great......You can pick the area that you want to restore/repair/upgrade.....and if you make a plan---the car can still be drivable with that section removed (example: gauge panel/just plug the oil pressure supply line while the panel/gauges are removed)
Three years ago today I spend the day sitting in the floorboard of mine repairing the most dangerous wiring I have seen in a car. Be careful, one thing will lead to another. I finally got everything back together in early May.
From the photos your interior looks pretty good. Noticed the aftermarket radio and the gear shift lever boot looked as if it was rubber. Pretty nit-noi observations.
I've removed the interior front panels of my 68 completely two times since I've owned it, and maybe a partial removal also. My experience is that every time I remove the interior parts there's a good chance of damaging something. The plastic substrates of the panels become brittle...almost like glass and it's easy to shatter them. The center instrument panel has screws that screw into the soft panel material of the driver's and passenger's side horizontal panels. These screw holes can become enlarged and then become nonfunctional. When these parts of you 68 was designed, GM knew it might have to be disassembled to remove the radio, or a tack or speedo,..ONE TIME. . The interior design never contemplated multiple removal and re-install over a 46 years period. Go real slow with everything. Also, Eastwood products sells plastic prybars of different shapes...these are good for working with the interior parts without damage. You sometimes need force to push the panels back into place. The prybars and light taps with your fist are often required.
From the photos your interior looks pretty good. Noticed the aftermarket radio and the gear shift lever boot looked as if it was rubber. Pretty nit-noi observations.
I've removed the interior front panels of my 68 completely two times since I've owned it, and maybe a partial removal also. My experience is that every time I remove the interior parts there's a good chance of damaging something. The plastic substrates of the panels become brittle...almost like glass and it's easy to shatter them. The center instrument panel has screws that screw into the soft panel material of the driver's and passenger's side horizontal panels. These screw holes can become enlarged and then become nonfunctional. When these parts of you 68 was designed, GM knew it might have to be disassembled to remove the radio, or a tack or speedo,..ONE TIME. . The interior design never contemplated multiple removal and re-install over a 46 years period. Go real slow with everything. Also, Eastwood products sells plastic prybars of different shapes...these are good for working with the interior parts without damage. You sometimes need force to push the panels back into place. The prybars and light taps with your fist are often required.
Thanks for the tips, I bought some Plastic Repair Epoxy in anticipation of repairing some holes that are already stripped with screws kinda holding on to what's in there now...
From the photos your interior looks pretty good. Noticed the aftermarket radio and the gear shift lever boot looked as if it was rubber. Pretty nit-noi observations.
I've removed the interior front panels of my 68 completely two times since I've owned it, and maybe a partial removal also. My experience is that every time I remove the interior parts there's a good chance of damaging something. The plastic substrates of the panels become brittle...almost like glass and it's easy to shatter them. The center instrument panel has screws that screw into the soft panel material of the driver's and passenger's side horizontal panels. These screw holes can become enlarged and then become nonfunctional. When these parts of you 68 was designed, GM knew it might have to be disassembled to remove the radio, or a tack or speedo,..ONE TIME. . The interior design never contemplated multiple removal and re-install over a 46 years period. Go real slow with everything. Also, Eastwood products sells plastic prybars of different shapes...these are good for working with the interior parts without damage. You sometimes need force to push the panels back into place. The prybars and light taps with your fist are often required.
Thanks for the tips, I bought some Plastic Repair Epoxy in anticipation of repairing some holes that are already stripped with screws kinda holding on to what's in there now...
You can buy a drill (bit) adapter that slides onto the bit/is secured with a set screw to limit the depth the bit will drill into something.....
then you can drill small pilot-hole in each repair location so the screw doesn't crack open the repaired hole.
Progress Update:
Heater Control is in.
New Vent on Passeger Side is in.
Found my Fiber Optics during the Heater Control Install. Some work, I think the non-working ones are at the Light End (Future Project)
My Original Wiper Bezel is gonna need some Weld Repair, I bought a 69-7x Non-AC bezel in the hopes of making my own cutout, but the bottom is different... See 3rd Pic
Radio is in but not wired yet, I think I need Yellow for Accessory Power??
Not sure about my "Seatbelt" Light, the one I thought was for it does not seem to fit in the available hole...
Still not sure if my Guage Cluster will need a ground wire???
Found original Seatbelt (Retractable side) under carpet. Bolts are not budging, hit it with some PB Blaster to hopefully un-fossilize the bolts...
Progress Pics Below:
Last edited by Kruegmeister; 11-30-2014 at 12:05 PM.
Alright, not a better time to do it! Hopefully, you're bagging and tagging the screws and nuts, because they're all different in different areas! I swear none of them will fit anywhere, if they came from somewhere else! Good thing you're taking pictures too. That's going to help for sure! We know better, because four days, I mean weeks (months) later, you're trying to figure out, just exactly what did it look like, before you fixed it!
Finally, if your wiring harness is in good condition, go ahead and run with it, but if it has a lot of repairs, black tape, burnt brown looking sections (along with that crisp smell), along with beat-up dash bulb sockets, consider replacing it, because you don't want to go there twice (or three times, or four), because doing dash work on these cars is tough.
11-27-2014, 10:09 AM
Tearing into my 68 Interior this weekend.
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