68 corvette L68 w CE Block questions
#1
68 corvette L68 w CE Block questions
Hello gang. I have a few questions. I am to probably sell my corvette due to health problems. An get a c6 this winter. My car is a 68 with a CE motor with a single carb. The motor was replaced under warranty in 69, some where over the last 40 years somebody replaced the tri power with a 4 barrel. I have the tank sticker when we replaced the fuel tank. Should I buy a correct tri power set up to and would it be worth it in selling it. The block is 3963512 I have the other numbers off the pad next to the water pump. Thanks
#2
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Hi bmax,
I guess the first thing to ask is how much of the original engine's parts were moved to the CE block.
The more that came along for the ride the better. I'm asking about parts with part numbers and dates that would be suitable for your car's build dates.
Things like heads, exhaust manifolds, water and fuel pump, starter, distributor, etc..
So is this a car with a non original BLOCK, or a non original ENGINE.
Regards,
Alan
I guess the first thing to ask is how much of the original engine's parts were moved to the CE block.
The more that came along for the ride the better. I'm asking about parts with part numbers and dates that would be suitable for your car's build dates.
Things like heads, exhaust manifolds, water and fuel pump, starter, distributor, etc..
So is this a car with a non original BLOCK, or a non original ENGINE.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 11-27-2014 at 12:25 PM.
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I think spending pile of money to replace a tri power just to sell it is a mistake. The car is an NOM and will be an NOM when you are done spending money. I seriously doubt you will get the additional investment back.
#5
Melting Slicks
I don't believe all NOMs sell for the same price regardless of how they're equipped. Question is whether a tri-power would fetch enough premium to justify the expense of locating and installing. Anyone who would actually consider buying a NOM have an opinion on this? Opinions from those who would never consider buying the car are irrelevant be it a rare numbers matching car or base model NOM. I would never pay the premiums asked for on many of the more rare numbers matching, big block or LT1 originals. This doesn't mean someone else won't.
#7
68 427 l68
Some one wanted to the serial numbers on my block. The best that I can tell are . Block casting 3965312- stamping are 195736605- t101lm. the tank sticker L68AA. I hope this well tell I something. steve
#8
Can you post a picture?
#9
A 400h.p. is rarer than my L-71{435h.p.).I just spent $5,000 putting mine on.You can expect to spend at least that much.I have no intention of ever selling mine I just love multi carbs,maybe just buy the unit if you can catch a deal on it and let the new owner rebuild it and buy all the misc. crap then let him install it.My #'s don't match either but I really don't care what the "experts say". It just make it easier to sell with less of a loss.
#10
Drifting
I bought a 68 NOM BB tripower 2 years ago. Wanted a tripower BB but didn't want to pay matching number pricing. I dont think the cost of adding the tripower on a NOM would be recouped on the sale.
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19S736605 TI0ILM - there is a digit missing from the engine assembly date code.
If so, this is a 427, 390 hp engine, manual transmission from 1969 Corvette #36605.
A picture of the engine pad would really help at this point.
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#13
I wonder if this car is actually a '69 with it's born with engine that came with the paperwork from a '68?
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I agree with you, I didnt say all NOM deductions are the same. All Im saying is, buying the tri power stuff is expensive and spending the money and then hoping you get it back on a car that is an NOM isnt a move Id make. I prefer to spend less money on cars that are actively for sale unless I'm really comfortable that the extra expense will enhance the return or break even while the car sells quicker. IMO I'm not sure thats the case here.
#15
Melting Slicks
I agree with you, I didnt say all NOM deductions are the same. All Im saying is, buying the tri power stuff is expensive and spending the money and then hoping you get it back on a car that is an NOM isnt a move Id make. I prefer to spend less money on cars that are actively for sale unless I'm really comfortable that the extra expense will enhance the return or break even while the car sells quicker. IMO I'm not sure thats the case here.
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