When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
We finally got the engine and tranny out. My very first engine removal ever! I may be being a little dramatic here, but as that 500+lb mass of metal and grease cleared the engine bay (without traumatizing the body), I did a happy dance in my head, but ONLY in my head be cause I feared if I moved anything too quickly, the massive blob of metal would surely come crashing down. Now what? Sending the tranny off for rebuild and deciding what all to do to the engine. :o) While they are gone, I will be prepping and painting the engine compartment. This is happening!!
Congrats, well done! Have done this twice on my vette and helped a few others over the years. The last time (2 summers ago) I could not have done it without Mooser's help. I had pneumonia, thought I was better than I was but no strength or memory it seemed for even the smallest task. While out I cleaned and painted the engine bay and cleaned the grime off the bottom of the vette. I used one of his tricks to clean and paint - wrapped anything that I didn't want paint on in aluminm foil.
Congrats, well done! Have done this twice on my vette and helped a few others over the years. The last time (2 summers ago) I could not have done it without Mooser's help. I had pneumonia, thought I was better than I was but no strength or memory it seemed for even the smallest task. While out I cleaned and painted the engine bay and cleaned the grime off the bottom of the vette. I used one of his tricks to clean and paint - wrapped anything that I didn't want paint on in aluminm foil.
Thanks for the Aluminum foil tip! I am an experienced furniture refinisher and home painter, but have no experience prepping or painting an engine compartment. I'm sure the same rule applies "If you don't want it painted, cover/tape it". If I may ask, what is the best degreaser you have used? Simple green has been my go to, but can change to something better. :o)
I've used both Gunk Degreaser and Simply Green then Spray Nine to for the final clean. For paint I used John Deere Blitz Black for the flat black areas.
Made some major steps toward cleaning up the engine compartment in my new-to-me '69 350/300.
Upgraded to an HEI distributor over the weekend, including new wires and plugs. Which also fixed the inop tach issue!
Added an electric choke to the Holley 1850-2.
And just upfitted the fuel intake to the carb, with a nice chrome tube set with a banjo fitting from JEGS.
All of the above to enable getting rid of that ugly (IMO) Edelbrock pillow air cleaner, and upgrading to a nice chrome disk style.
The new air cleaner still took some tweaking to fit (heat & beat a divot for the fuel connection that still interfered slightly, and had to bend the base's lip a bit to clear the larger HEI distributor cap).
And also allowed getting the PCV back on the correct left side, and to add the breather return hose to the left side (he had the breather hole plugged).
But I really like the look much better in the After 2nd & 3rd pictures.
A lot of Armor-All cleaning and treating of the black parts all around the compartment certainly helped to improve the dry, dirty, dingy look as well.
Still need to get the correct decal for the air cleaner (they sent me a 350/350 by mistake). And waiting on some decent looking wire organizers to arrive.
Eventually will get some nicer looking aluminum finned valve covers too, but that can wait till the bank account recovers from the initial purchase 3 weeks ago, and the $$$ I've sunk into her already getting back in shape!
Great minds think alike! I just did this same thing to my center and side grills w/a belt sander 2 months ago, i love the look. Did mine in satin black.
New battery time, went to start the vett, click-click?
Pulled the battery- April of 2010. Went with another Durastart battery from our local farming implement provider- Big R, will be happy to get another 6 years out of this one.
That underhood looks great! What was the brand and sheen of the rattlecan product you used? Plan to drape the sides and tape off edges, but did you also cover the top of the hood to protect from over spray? Thanks for posting pics!
Figgered out why the choke wasn't working on my Rochester QJet 4bbl..Normally, on a cold engine start, I depress the accelerator pedal to the foor slowly and release it slowly..then crank it up..Starts with higher idle initally, then after several minutes..drops down to normal idle. I found that a small short 6/32 machine screw that connects a rod from choke on P/S of carb had gone mossing..Found it atop the manifold and reinstalled it w/blu loktite and problem solved..Wish all the small bugaboos on the old C3's was as simple..Jim
Well does it count that I put a C3 rad in my C2 LOL
now I cant wait till the summer and the hot weather but it looks like
it has fixed the problem of running hot.
For the last couple days, I've been working on the front-end that I took from my "parts car".
It's quite obvious that the parts car has been in more than one fender-bender, except that fiberglass doesn't bend, so it was crunched, gobs of fiberglass and resin were put over the tops of PREVIOUS gobs of fiberglass and resin, resulting in mounds of old resin that has to be removed.
As I said, days of sanding and grinding.
I've taken the entire front fender assembly off, placed them upside down on a dolly and I'm still grinding, or at least I was a few minutes ago.
I keep telling myself that it will look great... someday.
At least I'm not the only one that has to deal with dicked-up fiberglass.. mine was loaded down with Bondo to cover up bad repairs both front and rear.
Right now, I drove across 5 states to pick up a crossmember from Bowtie Overdrives for my 700R4 conversion. Thank you Jennifer!!
10-18-2016, 07:52 PM
