MGKelly

Hello,
I’ve searched for pics and video but only found material with the body already separated from the frame and in straps. How do you initially separate the body from the frame?
Should I put a jack under the steel lip between body and frame under the doors and lift each side slowly or is there a easier safer way?

Thanks, Joe

bj1k

The straps and a hoist are the only safe way of lifting the body. The straps hook securely under the metal supports under the rocker panels.

Tim 1973

This is what I did, I did not have a engine in mine.

After everything is disconnected and all 8 mount bolts removed. Do not forget to remove bolts on radiator mount, I just removed it all. Brake lines and fuel and vapor lines. they all stay with the frame but your vapor canister is mounted to body. Steering connection, bumpers depending on year. Had my vehicle on jack stands so I could watch it coming off. Using straps I purchased from ecklers but shortened with ratchets as the ones you purchase are way too long. I started lifting shacking the body a little and it broke of the mounts where it had been sitting since 1973. Once about 3" off frame I went under to make sure everything was loose and I had missed the seat belt mount cable.

Just take it slow and do not be in a hurry. I did not have any help, but I like doing things by myself.

MGKelly

Thanks!!!

MGKelly

Thanks, I've got almost everything disconnected and thanks for mentioning the radiator supports.

The Phantom

There is a check list on the forum .... use it it will help. So for mine I used my four post lift, I strapped the car in on my gantry and lowered the frame down from the body, it allowed the slow control I was comfortable with.







Dave

SB64

Hi Dave, looks like you did it. Nice to have a lift available as well as the gantry. good job , now the real fun starts. What are you going for stock or resto. Keep the pic's coming.
r

68/70Vette

The driver's side of the frame has two 9/16 inch holes. The passenger's side of the frame has two 9/16 inch holes. Correspondingly there are 9/16 holes in the birdcage. Pins, on the factory assembly line, were placed in these holes to accurately mate the birdcage (the body) to the frame.

If you want to duplicate these 9/16 inch dowel rods, you cannot just go to the hardware store and buy 9/16 inch steel rods. They won't be exactly 9/16, they'll be slightly smaller diameter. To get real 9/16 inch steel rods, you have to go to a machinist supply store and possibly order them.

I think having these alignment pins will be a good idea for you body drop. Actually, the hardware store 9/16 inch rods will be pretty good...far better than nothing.
.....................................
Why aren't hardware store 9/16 inch rods, 9/16 inch? Simple, buy a 2X4 from the same hardware store. The 2X4 you buy will be 1 7/8 X 3 7/8. The 9/16 inch steel rod won't be 9/16 inch either...that's what I was told...don't know if it's true.

80Baby

I was able to lift off my body with the forementioned straps and an engine lift. I had to shorten the straps by wrapping them around 2" X 4"s, plus I had to remove the tires and place the car down on wheel dollies. It just gave me enough clearance. But it worked.

The Phantom

The car is so far from stock there is no turning back .... and that's what I wanted, anyway I just thought some pics would help the original poster. I'll post when I'm a little further along ... or the snow melts ... or both!

Dave

SB64

Gotcha Dave, good luck and we will be watching.
r