C3 General General C3 Corvette Discussion not covered in Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

77 AC Compressor replacement advice

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-07-2015, 12:27 AM
  #1  
LSH77VETTE
Racer
Thread Starter
 
LSH77VETTE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Madisonville Kentucky
Posts: 357
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default 77 AC Compressor replacement advice

I am contemplating buying a new AC Compressor for my 77 because my current one is leaking oil from the pulley shaft and slinging oil on the hood liner. If I do, would like to convert over to the R134 Freon. Does anyone have any suggestions on where is best place to buy a new compressor that can be used with the R134 and is there anything else in the system I would need to replace other than the compressor in order to be able to use the R134 ?

thanks
Old 05-07-2015, 08:22 AM
  #2  
Easy Mike
Team Owner
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Easy Mike's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes on 1,248 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran

Default

You can get a remanufactured R4 at almost all the generic auto parts places. Any automotive AC shop can convert your system to R134.

Keep in mind it's against the law to vent R12 into the atmosphere, so the AC shop will need to evacuate your system before you unbolt the compressor.
Old 05-07-2015, 08:34 AM
  #3  
REELAV8R
Le Mans Master
 
REELAV8R's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: Hermosa
Posts: 6,056
Received 1,034 Likes on 852 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LSH77VETTE
I am contemplating buying a new AC Compressor for my 77 because my current one is leaking oil from the pulley shaft and slinging oil on the hood liner. If I do, would like to convert over to the R134 Freon. Does anyone have any suggestions on where is best place to buy a new compressor that can be used with the R134 and is there anything else in the system I would need to replace other than the compressor in order to be able to use the R134 ?

thanks
I've seen compressors do this when the system is empty and then seal up with a charge. Is yours empty? If it is I guess you'd better turn report it to the EPA.
Old 05-07-2015, 02:00 PM
  #4  
LSH77VETTE
Racer
Thread Starter
 
LSH77VETTE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Madisonville Kentucky
Posts: 357
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by REELAV8R
I've seen compressors do this when the system is empty and then seal up with a charge. Is yours empty? If it is I guess you'd better turn report it to the EPA.
LOL..........I have had to recharge it every spring but it still leaks as mentioned. Just getting tired of dealing with having to recharge every year and especially the leak slinging oil around in my engine bay.
Old 05-08-2015, 03:45 PM
  #5  
jnealg
Burning Brakes
 
jnealg's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2010
Location: Winston Ga.
Posts: 1,018
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

The compressor is not going to care which its pumping. if yours is leaking and you want to replce it I would suggest a US made Sanden with the appropriate pulleys.
You'll need to change the Schrader valves and make sure to put an appropriate sticker on it to alert others of the change.
The trick is balancing the charge, usually 80% of the R12 charge is close.
You will want to switch to a cycling system if its not already. that year is right in the middle of when the manf's were switching over to a cycling system rather than running the compressor all the time. this is done with the correct valve/sensor.

This is from my techs. I just own the shop. I'm not near as smart as they are.

Last edited by jnealg; 05-08-2015 at 03:49 PM.
Old 05-08-2015, 10:27 PM
  #6  
LSH77VETTE
Racer
Thread Starter
 
LSH77VETTE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Madisonville Kentucky
Posts: 357
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jnealg
The compressor is not going to care which its pumping. if yours is leaking and you want to replce it I would suggest a US made Sanden with the appropriate pulleys.
You'll need to change the Schrader valves and make sure to put an appropriate sticker on it to alert others of the change.
The trick is balancing the charge, usually 80% of the R12 charge is close.
You will want to switch to a cycling system if its not already. that year is right in the middle of when the manf's were switching over to a cycling system rather than running the compressor all the time. this is done with the correct valve/sensor.

This is from my techs. I just own the shop. I'm not near as smart as they are.
Thanks for the info. I am not sure if my current system is a cycling one or not. Is there any way to tell by looking?
Old 05-24-2015, 12:22 AM
  #7  
LSH77VETTE
Racer
Thread Starter
 
LSH77VETTE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Madisonville Kentucky
Posts: 357
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

So if I buy a new compressor and convert over to 134, is there anything else I need to change such as a new evap/condenser?
Old 05-24-2015, 06:23 AM
  #8  
Rotonda
Burning Brakes
 
Rotonda's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Rotonda FL
Posts: 1,071
Received 85 Likes on 78 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LSH77VETTE
So if I buy a new compressor and convert over to 134, is there anything else I need to change such as a new evap/condenser?
Before going any further, you need to determine whether your 77 is equipped with a VIR system or a modern an orifice system. Early 77's had a VIR, late changed to the orifice system. (My 77 was built in late February 1977 and had a VIR)

The reason this is important is that to convert to R134a, you need to clean the entire system of the lubricant used with the original R12 refrigerant. As part of this cleaning, you replace the system drier/receiver - a relatively easy and inexpensive task on an orifice system and a more difficult and expensive task with a VIR, because the drier is integral with the Valve In Receiver.

Also, the hoses from your R4 compressor will not adapt to a Sanden, and you will have to have new hoses made by your AC shop. AND finally, the Sanden will require new mounting brackets (Available from Allen Grove and many other suppliers)

Other fiddley bits are cleaning out the decades of accumulated crap that has found its way into your evaporator housing (It's amazing what increased air flow will do to improve your AC), and replace your current condenser with a multipath one designed to shed heat from R134a.

Some people on the Forum will certainly tell you that none of the above is necessary (except the new mounting brackets and the new hoses), giving their experiences. I'm sure it worked for them and met their expectations. However, it is not what is recommended for good cooling and system longevity.
Old 05-24-2015, 07:42 AM
  #9  
4SPDL81
Racer
 
4SPDL81's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 337
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
St. Jude Donor '16

Default

R12 is the more efficient of the two freons...even including the fact that R12 is harder to find and more expensive...Good luck!
Old 05-24-2015, 08:54 AM
  #10  
Street Rat
Le Mans Master
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Street Rat's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2010
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 5,311
Received 529 Likes on 396 Posts

Default

I'd put the Sanden compressor upgrade on it. Available here...

http://www.classicautoair.com/GM_OEM...ompressor.html
Old 05-26-2015, 07:19 AM
  #11  
jnealg
Burning Brakes
 
jnealg's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2010
Location: Winston Ga.
Posts: 1,018
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

you will need new schrader valves. they will be on the new hoses most likely.

Get notified of new replies

To 77 AC Compressor replacement advice




Quick Reply: 77 AC Compressor replacement advice



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:19 AM.