Vert top and tools adventure!
#1
Drifting
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Vert top and tools adventure!
I just ordered a Al Knock Stay Fast top for my car. I was going to have it done but everything else on my frame off resto-mod was done by me with the exception of the short block so I figured I would go for it even though I hear it is not easy.
Do I need any special tools and if so can anyone make a recommendation? Such as a stapler and staple length. And any other special tools.
Do I need any special tools and if so can anyone make a recommendation? Such as a stapler and staple length. And any other special tools.
#2
Melting Slicks
1. A couple of different length staples - when you do the front, there will be more "layers" so you will need a little longer ones for the "last" layer.
2. Pay particular attention to the rearmost upright bow! Make sure it ends up centered over the two approximately 1/2" long slits in the top (assuming yours has the slits).
3. After you have completely removed the old top, a few things to check before you start the new one:
- Make sure the last big bow (against the rear deck) is "straight" - (meaning no extraneous bends, etc.) and has the correct, even arc
- With the frame up and latched all around, now is the time to make sure your windows close correctly and tightly.
- I would recommend replacing the top weatherstripping also - it was easier with the top out of the way.
- The "Al Knoch Video" was a good help - but it is several orders into copies so it was pretty grainy!
I ended up with a little bit of wrinkling between the side and rear window (probably related to #2!) - not too bad, but I sure could do a lot better job if I had a do-over!!
2. Pay particular attention to the rearmost upright bow! Make sure it ends up centered over the two approximately 1/2" long slits in the top (assuming yours has the slits).
3. After you have completely removed the old top, a few things to check before you start the new one:
- Make sure the last big bow (against the rear deck) is "straight" - (meaning no extraneous bends, etc.) and has the correct, even arc
- With the frame up and latched all around, now is the time to make sure your windows close correctly and tightly.
- I would recommend replacing the top weatherstripping also - it was easier with the top out of the way.
- The "Al Knoch Video" was a good help - but it is several orders into copies so it was pretty grainy!
I ended up with a little bit of wrinkling between the side and rear window (probably related to #2!) - not too bad, but I sure could do a lot better job if I had a do-over!!
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: charlotte north carolina
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As posted above, adjust the top and the windows and install new weather stripping.
Use a good quality screen window spline tool to seat the vinyl tubing in the rear bow. Don't trim the top fabric flush with the top rear bow-fold it back on itself about an inch and trim at that point.
Corvettefever, rowleycorvetteand convertibletopguys all have papers on the net that you can download. Each has some good points that the others don't have.
Good luck-it seems a lot scarier than it really turns out to be.
Use a good quality screen window spline tool to seat the vinyl tubing in the rear bow. Don't trim the top fabric flush with the top rear bow-fold it back on itself about an inch and trim at that point.
Corvettefever, rowleycorvetteand convertibletopguys all have papers on the net that you can download. Each has some good points that the others don't have.
Good luck-it seems a lot scarier than it really turns out to be.
#4
Le Mans Master
I would send the Al Knoch top back and buy a Robbins top. I have installed many of my own tops and had several Knoch tops that were cut too short. They used to make good tops but in recent years they have got sloppy . I have never had a problem with Robbins tops. The specifications are right on.
#5
Drifting
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Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
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1. A couple of different length staples - when you do the front, there will be more "layers" so you will need a little longer ones for the "last" layer.
2. Pay particular attention to the rearmost upright bow! Make sure it ends up centered over the two approximately 1/2" long slits in the top (assuming yours has the slits).
3. After you have completely removed the old top, a few things to check before you start the new one:
- Make sure the last big bow (against the rear deck) is "straight" - (meaning no extraneous bends, etc.) and has the correct, even arc
- With the frame up and latched all around, now is the time to make sure your windows close correctly and tightly.
- I would recommend replacing the top weatherstripping also - it was easier with the top out of the way.
- The "Al Knoch Video" was a good help - but it is several orders into copies so it was pretty grainy!
I ended up with a little bit of wrinkling between the side and rear window (probably related to #2!) - not too bad, but I sure could do a lot better job if I had a do-over!!
2. Pay particular attention to the rearmost upright bow! Make sure it ends up centered over the two approximately 1/2" long slits in the top (assuming yours has the slits).
3. After you have completely removed the old top, a few things to check before you start the new one:
- Make sure the last big bow (against the rear deck) is "straight" - (meaning no extraneous bends, etc.) and has the correct, even arc
- With the frame up and latched all around, now is the time to make sure your windows close correctly and tightly.
- I would recommend replacing the top weatherstripping also - it was easier with the top out of the way.
- The "Al Knoch Video" was a good help - but it is several orders into copies so it was pretty grainy!
I ended up with a little bit of wrinkling between the side and rear window (probably related to #2!) - not too bad, but I sure could do a lot better job if I had a do-over!!
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
7 Posts
As posted above, adjust the top and the windows and install new weather stripping.
Use a good quality screen window spline tool to seat the vinyl tubing in the rear bow. Don't trim the top fabric flush with the top rear bow-fold it back on itself about an inch and trim at that point.
Corvettefever, rowleycorvetteand convertibletopguys all have papers on the net that you can download. Each has some good points that the others don't have.
Good luck-it seems a lot scarier than it really turns out to be.
Use a good quality screen window spline tool to seat the vinyl tubing in the rear bow. Don't trim the top fabric flush with the top rear bow-fold it back on itself about an inch and trim at that point.
Corvettefever, rowleycorvetteand convertibletopguys all have papers on the net that you can download. Each has some good points that the others don't have.
Good luck-it seems a lot scarier than it really turns out to be.
#9
Race Director
As posted above, adjust the top and the windows and install new weather stripping.
Use a good quality screen window spline tool to seat the vinyl tubing in the rear bow. Don't trim the top fabric flush with the top rear bow-fold it back on itself about an inch and trim at that point.
Corvettefever, rowleycorvetteand convertibletopguys all have papers on the net that you can download. Each has some good points that the others don't have.
Good luck-it seems a lot scarier than it really turns out to be.
Use a good quality screen window spline tool to seat the vinyl tubing in the rear bow. Don't trim the top fabric flush with the top rear bow-fold it back on itself about an inch and trim at that point.
Corvettefever, rowleycorvetteand convertibletopguys all have papers on the net that you can download. Each has some good points that the others don't have.
Good luck-it seems a lot scarier than it really turns out to be.