HELP !!!! Removing 78 rear brake rotors
#1
Heel & Toe
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HELP !!!! Removing 78 rear brake rotors
I need some suggestions on how to remove my rear brake rotors. I've already re-worked the front brakes and drilled out the rivits on the front hubs on my drill press.
I downloaded step by step instructions from the internet and man they make it sound easy! Of course I have to drill the rear ones still on the car. Im using a 5/16 bit then a 3/8, having trouble keeping the drill centered even after center punching them.
Also, should I be concerned about hitting the rivits too hard with a punch and possibly damaging a bearing or something ?
Thanks in advance for your help !
I downloaded step by step instructions from the internet and man they make it sound easy! Of course I have to drill the rear ones still on the car. Im using a 5/16 bit then a 3/8, having trouble keeping the drill centered even after center punching them.
Also, should I be concerned about hitting the rivits too hard with a punch and possibly damaging a bearing or something ?
Thanks in advance for your help !
#2
Team Owner
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Index the rotors before you remove them. They have to go back in the same positions on the hubs to avoid run out problems.
You're not likely to damage the bearings by tapping out rivets.
You're not likely to damage the bearings by tapping out rivets.
#3
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I need some suggestions on how to remove my rear brake rotors. I've already re-worked the front brakes and drilled out the rivits on the front hubs on my drill press.
I downloaded step by step instructions from the internet and man they make it sound easy! Of course I have to drill the rear ones still on the car. Im using a 5/16 bit then a 3/8, having trouble keeping the drill centered even after center punching them.
Also, should I be concerned about hitting the rivits too hard with a punch and possibly damaging a bearing or something ?
Thanks in advance for your help !
I downloaded step by step instructions from the internet and man they make it sound easy! Of course I have to drill the rear ones still on the car. Im using a 5/16 bit then a 3/8, having trouble keeping the drill centered even after center punching them.
Also, should I be concerned about hitting the rivits too hard with a punch and possibly damaging a bearing or something ?
Thanks in advance for your help !
After center punching you ALWAYS use a smaller pilot drill first then the larger drill. Once drilled with a pilot drill the larger drill stays centered.
#4
If replacing dont be too concerned with hitting dead on. Just drill those suckers out and hit the rotor with a Brass hammer or if you are saving the rotors place a block of wood between rotor and hammer. You should see the riviets start to give.
And as previously stated -Index the rotors if re-using before you remove them. They have to go back in the same positions on the hubs to avoid run out problems.
#5
Heel & Toe
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Thanks guys ! Like I said, I'm using a 5/16 then a 3/8 bit. Sometimes the head pops off but most of the time not, so I keep drilling and try to knock it out with a punch. I'm hitting them pretty hard with a shop hammer. Since the rotors obviously have never been removed I hope they can be turned otherwise I will replace them.
I'm starting to think I should have left them alone and put new calipers pads and hoses on.
Wish me luck this weekend !
Thanks again !
I'm starting to think I should have left them alone and put new calipers pads and hoses on.
Wish me luck this weekend !
Thanks again !
#6
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...I'm starting to think I should have left them alone...
An awful lot of good, serviceable factory rotors have been needlessly removed and replaced.
#7
Racer
I replaced my rotors with drilled and vented from Summit. The price was right they seem to be true as well. Just make sure you line up the access hole for the emergency brake adjustment.
#8
I am in the middle of the same job on my 78’ and actually toyed with the idea of turning the old rotors down while I had them off. But after drilling those out I figured I’d bite the proverbial bullet and just replace the rotors, calibers, and pads and be done with it forever. I also ordered new Parking Brake Shoes and Hardware cause I wanted a parking brake to work as designed. I was ultimately chasing a rear wheel that was overheating and after replacing the Brake lines, caliper & pads it turned out to be the parking brake not retracting and staying on. I am still working on this project but got the side done that was cooking. Good Luck on yours.
#9
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Correction, I'm using a 5/32 bit then a 3/8. that probably makes more sense. I was going to have the rotors checked to see if they could be turned for $15 each vs. $50 each for new ones but I'm having such a hard time getting the old ones off, I'm thinking about leaving them on and just replacing the calipers, pads, and brake lines and whatever the emergency brakes need.
I bought a new set of chisels and punches from H.F. over the weekend so I may give it another try.
Thanks for all your suggestions !
I bought a new set of chisels and punches from H.F. over the weekend so I may give it another try.
Thanks for all your suggestions !
#10
Correction, I'm using a 5/32 bit then a 3/8. that probably makes more sense. I was going to have the rotors checked to see if they could be turned for $15 each vs. $50 each for new ones but I'm having such a hard time getting the old ones off, I'm thinking about leaving them on and just replacing the calipers, pads, and brake lines and whatever the emergency brakes need.
I bought a new set of chisels and punches from H.F. over the weekend so I may give it another try.
Thanks for all your suggestions !
I bought a new set of chisels and punches from H.F. over the weekend so I may give it another try.
Thanks for all your suggestions !
#11
Racer
Man! I am suprised you are having such a time with them. Your plan sounds good but keep in mind to actually see the Parking Brake shoes and mechnisms you have to get the rotors off. If your P-Brake is working OK then leave them on and fight the rotor battle another day.
#12
Racer
I just had another thought, make sure to back off the emergency brake adjuster. One of mine had the rotor locked on I had to destroy the adjuster to get the rotor off.
#13
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Just got off the phone with my buddy who is a REAL mechanic. I feel like much of an idiot about now. I've been trying so hard to drive the rivits out of the rotor and hub when all I really needed to do was get the heads off of the rivits then I should be able to get the rotor off ! He said if the rivits wont knock out after that, just take a grinder and grind them down !
Now I remember why I don't do this for a living !!!
Thanks guys !!! I'll let you know how it turns out !
Now I remember why I don't do this for a living !!!
Thanks guys !!! I'll let you know how it turns out !
#14
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God is good all the time!!! Finally got the rotors off last night! After drilling the heads off of the rivits I realized I wasn't going to have much room to swing a hammer so I borrowed a 3 arm puller (for lack of a better term) from my Dad that was large enough to reach around them. After a little WD-40 and a couple of licks with the hammer they came off pretty easy, but I think you were right Nick, they seemed to be hung up on the emergency brakes which by the way, seemed to be in pretty bad shape. So there's my next project !
Thanks guys for all your help !!!
Thanks guys for all your help !!!