BoredNord

My '72 350 is pretty stock from what I've been seeing. If I remember correctly it has a Edelbrock intake on it, and a new ignition. Along with that it has side pipes(but exhaust manifolds...)

I've been trolling around the forums and learning what I can. My goal for the engine is a 100% street car, with some definite pep in its step. Where's the best place to start to find some more horsepower/performance?

As of this moment, here's the "plan of action" I'll be tinkering with.

1. Headers(may as well actually made those sidepipes sing!)
2. Cam (Not sure how to go on this, been reading quite a few articles but there are so many choices, especially when you have to match it with...)
3. Aluminum heads (weight savings, run higher compression on street gas)

Aside from that I'm really not sure where to look, or how to match things up to be honest. If you have any experiences or advice to share I'd love to hear it.

grancuda

I am in the exact same position. I was going to go with some Edelbrock heads but have changed route to Chevrolet Performance Vortec heads. My compression (currently 8:1) with their 64cc chamber & 0.015 gasket should be 9.25~9.5:1. The aluminum will reduce compression some with a street car in traffic & heat. If you are going to bump to 10.5:1 with some pistons too, the Edelbrocks would be good.

On cam selection, keep in mind the duration is linked to your compression ratio. I am looking for a 208/212 @ 0.50" duration & a lift the vortec heads can handle.

I am ordering heads & cam this week then some side pipes as so as I sell my TPI set-up off the car.

SinfulC3

Same boat. I want to get MORE out of it.
The cam, I'm honestly lost. I have no idea how to match it to the heads/etc. I'm just going to wait for someone to put together their parts list and try to match it after they have some time to review it.

doorgunner

Rookie advice:
If you are on a limited budget.......install 1:6 ratio intake and exhaust rocker arms for pep.......can be done in 2 hours or less/you only need to remove the valve covers to get to the rocker arms.....install headers also....those two changes give best $$$$ per H.P. increase without having to "go into the engine".

Dean_Fuller

I have a 1972 base 350 ) numbers matching ) motor I am building right now. It did not have the correct heads so I opted for a set of Dart SHP 180cc aluminum heads with 2.20 intake and 1.6 exhaust for around $900. I like aluminum heads as they are not only lighter but do not retain as much heat. Has harden seats. Older iron heads will need seats added for what they call gas now a days. The motor already had 1.6 roller tipped rockers so I will reuse those. Had flat top pistons so those I will reuse as well. Flat top pistons will increase compression but don't get too high or you will have trouble running on most gas you can find. Not sure on intake yet. I have the correct factory one which if not used I will save but an Edlebrock performer would be nice. I am running a QJet carb so the intake will need to be a SPEAD bore. If your running a holley you will need a square bore I think. If you want drivability you will want a DUAL plane...NOT single plane for low end torque. Single plan will make more power at much higher RPM.

Cam will be a compcam. I forgot the numbers but I will check this afternoon if you like. I want a smooth idle. Low end torque with enough lobe separation ( no lower than 112 I think or there abouts ) to give you vacuum to operate your head lights and wiper door. I am staying with flat tappet. Would love to move up to roller but that's LOTS of money. Maybe $700 to $1000 with lifters and cam. I DO NOT want a lope to speak of. Nice and smooth for me.

BoredNord

Are there any real difficulties in converting the engine from flat tappet(or, I'm assuming it's flat tappet, I haven't torn into anything really) to rolling? Would there be an associated performance gain, reliability... and any shots in the dark on how much that'd be?

Dean_Fuller

Yes...you can 'convert" to roller. There is a step up in both performance and reliability. The cam profiles can be MUCH more aggressive than flat tappet. Valves can open and close faster and quicker. You will generally need a stiffer valve spring to prevent float. It can be done but is pricey. I am not sure if there is a limited budget...money may could be spent elsewhere for more bang.

I would look at heads and cam for your biggest bang for buck. Headers would be a good move for the money.

lowbuck72

You should first determine what your budget is and then decide what is the most bang for your buck.

BoredNord

Looking at things realistically... I can put up between 2-3k for motor mods.

Headers: 500-1000? I don't need the sidepipes as those are already installed...
Head: 700-1200?
Cam: 200?

So, in order to choose cam I need to also have a head that'll work with it, and also have a compression number to run at as well... I'm not unintelligent I'm just unlearn'd. Does anyone have a cheat sheet, or a formula, rule of thumb, etc for figuring this sort of thing out? I can turn a wrench fine enough, I just want to make educated decision that'll get me to an end product that'll respond in a correct way.

(Looking to run on pump gas, pep in the pedal mostly. So from my reading and talking with people it sounds like I'll have to keep the compression ratio in the 8.5-9.5 range but then I hear people talking about going up to 10.5...)

lowbuck72

I would start with a pair of aluminum heads, if only for the weight savings. Although it's frowned on, I've heard good things about the Chinese 2.02 heads which can be had for under $700 new and complete and shipped. Go with an RPM air gap intake and a Holley double pumper. Although all the cam you need is a 200-205 degree, if you want that lopey idle, go with around 225-230 degrees, no more. Then go with a set of equal length headers, and get the flywheel lightened and go with an electric radiator fan. That will let the engine rev up quickly. That should keep you in budget, but it wouldn't hurt to hit few swapmeets for some of this stuff. PAW out here on the west coast is a good supplier of hard parts at a good price, and their cams are great and a bargain.

68/70Vette

You should, regardless of your now budget, look at General Motors Performance Parts catalog. You can download it...I think it's about 60 Mbytes. Look at their ZZ5 (use to be ZZ4) and ZZ383 engines. They'll fit into a C3 easily. They have advanced technology parts, especially with respect to intake manifolds and cam shafts, but still use the 70's technology HEI distributors. They'll produce 400 + hp flywheel hp. They come with aluminum heads and manifolds. Flywheel hp is a lot more than the late 60's, early 70's gross hp.

Sunstroked

I dont know. RHS builds a nice head. About the upper end of your budget. Nice heads, according to the guy who built my engine. They produce good hp and are considerably cheaper in price than say AFR. Get a stroker kit. Retro fit roller cam. You'll get a real nice running 383 that will keep right up with a modern SS Camaro. How do I know? I own one, and I ran my corvette up against one. My corvette holds its own. Old school 383, rocks!

parkerracing

If you're not an "engine guru" the choices are almost limitless, sometimes confusing and the results can be disappointing after spending a ton of money and time. The best solution is to go with one vendor who has a complete package or kit of products that are matched to provide a proven performance gain.

HT1663WB

When I did my 77 Vette L48/4speed, I used RHS's version of the vortec head (they were cast iron). I used a metal head gasket to increase compression. I also used a Performer Intake and a stage 2 quadrajet from Jeggs. I was running side pipes (Hooker) and a 3:70 gear in the rear. The cam I choose was a Comp Cam (CL12-242-2) with 1.6 roller rockers. Vette was fun, plenty of get up and go. I did not pull the motor..everything was done in the car. FYI..I later switched to aluminum heads and lost power...the vortec heads are the way to go. Good Luck,Bill