When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I HATE the 'slip over' system in the Hookers. It may look smoother, but I can't get mine to stop leaking to save my life. I'd much rather get them loosely mounted to the frame, get the flange all tidy, then tighten everything at once.
I have numerous mods that are coming when I do my frame swap. This will probably be one of them.
Thanks to you all for posting your thoughts, and pictures. All have been very helpful and all will be referred to on a regular basis until I get to that part of my build. Chassis heading for powder coating and then assembly to follow. All parts are here now for the rolling chassis assembly over the winter. We will button up the engine soon and install with the TKO600 over the winter as well.
I find it fascinating that there is a variety of cars that have been produced over the years that vary from mild (street only) to wild (strip only). Which is where this car may vary a bit. This one I want to drive. I want it street legal. I want it track capable. I want is show eligible. I want to be able to drive, tow, show it as the opportunities present themselves.
1) I love the various paint themes presented and I intend to follow that same thinking with at least a dual, possibly multiple, color paint schema.
2) Big Block 496 will provide the power fueled by a Holly Terminator EFI.
3) Tremec will provide the shifting, I am going with a TKO600 with five speed shifting.
4) Rear gear set will be 3.70.
5) Half shafts are heavy duty, larger diameter, powder coated steel.
6) Handling improved over stock with a VBP Street and Slalom kit.
7) Replace the power steering setup will be a Hydroboost power brake and steering upgrade. (Not selected vendor for this one yet but had one in my 77 Sleeper and enjoyed it).
8) Adding some handling help will be big 295 series tires sitting on Western Hurricane Aluminum finned wheels.
9) Interior will be modified stock components for dash with toggles, two racing seats, full racing harnesses, partial roll cage, and fire extinguisher. Here I have ideas in mind, not formalized yet, will be soon.
So thank you again for the great pictures and as you find more please do post them, ideas are forming but final designs not yet set.
We have a lot of unique mods on our family cars, but brilliant-- Thanks!
Originally Posted by keithinspace
Off the original subject, but this is brilliant.
I HATE the 'slip over' system in the Hookers. It may look smoother, but I can't get mine to stop leaking to save my life. I'd much rather get them loosely mounted to the frame, get the flange all tidy, then tighten everything at once.
I have numerous mods that are coming when I do my frame swap. This will probably be one of them.
But how is it off of the subject??, we road race or have road raced our cars! This mod was ""not"" done to be cute! We can tune at the track or wherever timing and carb, fuel delivery both ways instantly- with tubes on or off! I have probes in my exhausts to read A/R and pyro!
These are Hookers, but modified by us at home. My father has to have his chrome tubes, so that was the truly tricky engineering (how do you weld to chrome? you don't!!!!! So you pound the slip-on over the header and then cut off the end of the header about a 1/4- 5/16 (width of flanges) of an inch sticking out past the chrome and then weld the flange to the black header portion separated by cutting off from the header that is sticking out of the slipped on chromed side pipe and weld the other flange to the header! We did grind off on the inside some very small spots of the chrome to tack weld the slipped in portion of the header portion where it wouldn't show, but grinding those smooth with dremel to not affect flow! Indexing the flanges is important (how you dial them being a personal preference- i like having at least two bolts more accessible with one needing dexterity of the fingers), so you can get to the bolts with your wrenches (started with stainless bolts, but my Father tends to drop or looses things so whatever bolts he has, but on my car, i now use a lot of titanium and inconel bolts everywhere on the car because I am lightweight crazy freak about it on my C2 racer- that i am building- mystery to be unveiled when done!) and we like soft laser cut out copper gaskets on all header related matings after milling or ensuring flat surfacing, but have retained a sealing ridge and have even metal o-ringed a thing or two over the years! We use delrin donuts to the body mounts, because rubber or other materials needed constant replacement (heat deformed or pressure deformed) and purposely oversized inconel washers over the delrin to shield the delrin, but up against the tab on the tubes in both side frame mountings for the tubes.
Taking them on or off- So back on involves slipping in the bolts at the flange (working the nut down the less accessible bolt first while it is all loose while using an extended and foot propped up method to balance the tube while engaging the first nut) and cinching up the nut on the hangars holds them up in place while tightening the flanges and then you snug the nuts on the hangers and we have pin clip holes drilled in the hangar bolts because we like that kind of stuff (bolt/nut pin/clip retension systems- I like lock wire twisting in crucial bolts, but not on the headers! Or you can be smarter and ask someone for a helping hand!!! No lie, I can have them off (solo) in under five minutes (employing some care to not get burned- wearing gloves and trying to not use any portion of the leg, balancing on shoe) on hot removal (or go get a beer while they cool), and then completely back on in under five more minutes (actually quicker because they aren't all hot)! On dad's car to not envoke his wrath and ruin the rest of the day, we try not to scratch his chrome, but on mine I undo the flange bolts and then take apart the frame mounts and then I will kick them off to hit the ground, especially when hot and they can lie where they drop, heat-sinking to the concrete or asphalt!
We have been a Corvette family people since the 1950's, so a lot of engineering little mods everywhere on our cars that guys look at and never focus on or realize how they were done and most go completely unnoticed! So that is how it was done on this header mod! Our car pictured here has twice won the open header contest at the old San Bernardino Route 66 event (2300 hot rod and muscle cars in attendance!). But that is just not attributed to this mod, the offset rockers because of radical side to side port widening on the intake sides aids greatly in filling a 4 inch header tube exhaust and we set rev limiters over 8K along with the Ford styled exhaust port and port matched extenders, is why the hookers are spaced somewhat more off of our cars than normal tucked location! We are the 550 plus hp small block building family of Corvette street and canyon racing guys who have tracked them also out here in Socal! Some of the career length race cars, usually won't get all smiley when guys like us show up, but I have tried in the past to get along, I even Ferrari styled Gated down my HD special built Richmond 6 speed to restrict to the upside down 4 pattern! I think the upside down 2,3,4,5 Muncie mimicked gearing as built into my special ROD tranny was just messing with their brains (so in other words, I gated or blocked 1st and 6th gear with a removable plate) just to get along and too be a little bit fair!
I like also two battery cut-offs (one inside- under steering column and one external over the battery) on my cars. I put it (my battery) on the passenger side, so on my weight jacking pins, I need less weighted disks for my side to side or for diagonally corner weighting my C2 racer, when no passenger and even less with passenger! PS most of my car lightening project has been concentrated on the Drivers side (I am the only one that has done that on my Corvette race car)! The smart Corvette famous racers generally haven't thought of that, but would lighten the whole damn thing! I have concentrated on neutralizing my fat A$$ balance! Like I said unique mods!!!!!!
See how willing i am to share when receiving such a nice friendly compliment (Thanks), unlike what i ever get on my normal C2 forum! Brilliant??, I am blushing! i might hang out more here on C3! C3 definitely seems to get more into topics of mods and into the occasional race level stuff!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 09-30-2015 at 11:11 AM.
As the original poster I am thankful for all of the comments, information, and help. Nothing off topic here thus far. The work done on the side pipes is very cool, never seen this modification up close and person before but I love how it looks, and how it works has to be exactly what road race cars need. I want to know more about the side pipe and header modifications you have made and will be in touch directly with you to discuss this further. Thank you for this, very helpful.
David S. Howard
AllC34Me
Racers etc. used the Vitaloni type mirrors many different models they offered, one of the popular being the Sebring. The Porsche crowd has caused originals to be driven up to high prices, but some of these have been copied and some modern reproductions are starting to surface. The brackets to the car that mount these, I usually see are custom fabricated and not store bought mounts.
09-26-2015, 08:00 PM
With a dry break fuel filler, the filler nozzle seals to the inlet when it's inserted, so the tank needs a separate vent.
