Procrastination Racing

Forgot to add, a decent fiberglass rear spring is a good choice. Thirty minutes to go back to the steel 9 or 10 leaf if you decide to but the really nice ride of the fiberglass is something worth doing. And handling does improve. Just don't go nuts on the stiffness but you can go stiffer on the fiberglass than an equivalent steel and get more performance and better ride at the same time.

Stock Production rear spring -- 140 lb/in
Gymkhana Used stiffer roll bars with same spring
F41 rear spring -- 305 lb/in
Daytona rear spring (very rare) -- 450 lb/in

You can probably go to 200 lb/in and feel like your car does now in stiffness but get better handling. Check with your supplier (Vette Brakes & products) on what they recommend based on how you want to drive it.


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Darn, I just noticed that while the later posts are current, this thread started last November, so you have probably already done whatever you wanted by now. I see the body is off the chassis and work being done.

Dirty Dalton

Thank you, Sir. Alan has already pretty much disabused me of doing anything even semi stupid, LOL.

Dirty Dalton

Over at the Beauty Parlor:



Stripped down to his birthday suit



Left rear



Right rear

Otherwise looks pretty good.

I've been away, so little progress on this front.





Slow progress is better than no progress!

1974ta

HI Ed,

I am a little late to the post and agree with Alan. 70 LT1 is a pretty special Corvette.

I have a 70 L46 Convertible so it is not an LT1 but it is pretty far down the road in terms of restoration.

Just some thoughts. The original steering when restored is very very good. Having the steering box rebuilt and set up correctly made a huge difference along with replacing worn out front end parts.

What is most surprising and gratifying is exactly how well everything worked together as the factory intended.

Once properly put together the rattles go away and the handling is very very good. The biggest improvement in handling IMHO is 17-18" shoes and a good set of Bilstien shocks.

Otherwise keep her as original as possible.

Bill

Alan 71

Hi Ed,
What type of finish are you thinking about for the frame once the rust repairs are done?
Also, on a car with the potential of this one it's important that the repairs be done in a way that it's not obvious that there was a repair.
Is the plan to use replacement frame sections?
Regards,
Alan

Don Rickles

Can be easier said than done!

Looking good, Ed!

Dirty Dalton

Alan gave me a good talking too, and I've seen the error of my mis-guided ways. I'm on the straight and narrow path, now!

Dirty Dalton

Pink? Danny will tell me and I'll write another check, LOL. No, seriously, I don't know, but if you have suggestions...

With respect to the repairs, Danny said, "The repairs will not show." He said something about 'water-cut' parts, if that means anything to you. (I do know about cutting with water, but the specifics of the parts I don't know.) I can tell you that extensive work was done on the XK 120 frame, and I couldn't tell where, once it was all done.

Dirty Dalton

Thank you! Also, see my reply to Alan re frame repairs.

Dirty Dalton

Got one head off today. Not bad for over 30 years of sitting, me thinks. Also, a good test of the Ortho Docs repairs of 4 months ago.



Damn bolts were TIGHT. I did, finally, remember Archimedes, and put a pipe over the breaker bar... Still quite the work out for my clavicle, LOL.

Alan 71

Hi Ed,
"With respect to the repairs, Danny said, "The repairs will not show." "
When I read this I thought that it could mean several things… maybe…
I''ll replace the rusted areas with new frame sections welded at the typical locations of the welds on the original frame
or,
I'll patch up the frame and use body filler to smooth things out where it looks bad.
The surface of the frame appears to be quite pitted; have you thought about, or talked about, dealing with that? The frames weren't very pretty when new but the surface wasn't pitted.
Regards,
Alan

Don Rickles

Ed,

I'm so jealous! I wish I had a project vette just like yours......Just not enough money or time at the moment. BUT, I will restore another one, one day!

1bdvet

Hey Ed, thanks for the updates, it's going to be beauty for sure when done.

Dirty Dalton

I think, based upon his work I've seen, we can presume the first.

As for second question, I know that the next item is to clean it up with a media blast job. He's on vaca at the moment, so, no, no further discussion on the process.

Dirty Dalton

Dave Fiedler has the distributor. We chatted today and the wheels have started turning on this portion of the project. He can save the distributor body, LOL... He'll also supply the needed coil, amplifier, harness, etc... (All removed by prior owner)

Time? Money? WB, I just keep in mind my Father's rule when it comes to the time or money required to complete a project.

First: a good faith estimate of either
Second: Double it
Third (and this is key): go to the next highest unit.

So, if the estimate is $100, double it to $200. Then up it to the next highest unit - $2000.

Dirty Dalton

Probably need to do something, given it's 46 years old. Suggestions?
DamperDoc (get it rebuilt). Other possible vendors?

Thank you!

Dirty Dalton

So, on my own here, harmonic balancer is off to the Damper Doc.

Stopped by the Beauty Parlor this morning on my bike ride:



The frame has been media blasted, and all the mouse nests dug out. The new pieces for the repair work are in, but, somehow, I didn't manage to get any photos of them.



Half shafts are all set to go, minus paint. New Ujoints, and balanced.

Pistons measure 3.998, but for one, a half thou less. Bores measure pretty nice: most don't vary by more than .001 in any direction, top to bottom. There's two where it gets to .002. Generally in the 4.003 or less range. Most still have Sharpie writing from the balance job done nearly 40 years ago.

Discussion about front A arms. Probably replace, tho I expressed considerable concern re Chinese parts. We'll see.

Oh, almost forgot, received some of Dave Fiedler's fine work.



He rebuilt the distributor, plus supplied the amplifier, coil, and wiring harness. Even uses 'melt-away' peanuts. Finest Kind!



1 Sept, frame painted to keep from rusting - repairs still to be made. Decision made to stick with old A-arms. Nice as 'new' stuff, cheaper, too. Block and flywheel still need to be delivered to machine shop. Harmonic Balancer back from Damper Doc. Very fast turn-around!




We got the block loaded up



and on 6 Sept I delivered it to Aubrey, in Marlborough, along with lots of other stuff. He figures he'll get started on it next week.

Dirty Dalton

8 Sept, stop at the beauty parlor on my bike ride





Time for some more

Alan 71

Hi Ed,
Pretty nice work showing in those 2 pictures!!!!
Going to be tough here…… is there any plan to make the surface of new sections look like the original frame or the original frame surfaces look like the new?
Right now the the frame screams….."SERIOUS FRAME REPAIR"!. That's o.k. on some cars but not on others. What are you thinking?
Regards,
Alan

Dirty Dalton

I'll write another check! LOL.

No, seriously, all I can tell you is that the man said, "The repairs will not show." He fabricated 25+% of the XK-120 frame, and it wasn't at all apparent. I will pester him at some point next week and let you know what I learn.