Trailing arm bolt removal?
#1
Trailing arm bolt removal?
How in the world do ya get the bolts out of the trailing arms I've heated them twisted them and beat on them and they won't budge. The arms are the last two things on the frame then off to get sand blasted
#4
Pro
Member Since: May 2011
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With the body off:
I would take an angle grinder and cut the bolt on both sides flat to the frame.
Then drill 0.25" deep into each bolt and get the TA out.
I had to cut this hardened bolts with a sawzall because the body was on the frame.
Took more than 1 hour per side.
Interestingly the new bolts from the known vendors are normal grade.
But because I used stainless sleeves and shims now and the car does not see much water anymore I guess the next removal will be no big deal.
I would take an angle grinder and cut the bolt on both sides flat to the frame.
Then drill 0.25" deep into each bolt and get the TA out.
I had to cut this hardened bolts with a sawzall because the body was on the frame.
Took more than 1 hour per side.
Interestingly the new bolts from the known vendors are normal grade.
But because I used stainless sleeves and shims now and the car does not see much water anymore I guess the next removal will be no big deal.
#5
bolt
You also want to lift up the trailing arm instead of letting it drop to the floor. Lift it up and stick a 3/4 socket under it, that should remove pressure of the bolt. Then go inside the #3 pocket and cut the bolt on both sides. Go slow!!
ZIO
ZIO
Last edited by SB64; 11-27-2015 at 09:42 AM.
#6
Drifting
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#7
Le Mans Master
Sawzall
Use a Sawzall with a carbide 12" Torx blade. The carbide blade will last much longer than a standard blade. Also add oil to keep the area cool and lubricated. I went through a few of them on my trailing arms. Replace with stainless steel bolts and shims. Lastly, don't use poly bushings on the arms. I replaced my poly bushings on my 66 after a few years because they turned to glass and fell apart. Good luck. Jerry
#8
Le Mans Master
Most instances require the use of the sawzall tool from personal experiences as well as from the archives here.
My thread "Trailing Arm Hell" has a wealth of information from the members of the CF.
#9
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BFH and a punch. It's not rocket science
#10
Use a Sawzall with a carbide 12" Torx blade. The carbide blade will last much longer than a standard blade. Also add oil to keep the area cool and lubricated. I went through a few of them on my trailing arms. Replace with stainless steel bolts and shims. Lastly, don't use poly bushings on the arms. I replaced my poly bushings on my 66 after a few years because they turned to glass and fell apart. Good luck. Jerry
#12
Thanks for all the replys guys what I ended up doing was cutting the bolt off flush with the frame then drilling it out with a 3/8 bit just inside the frame then It was loose enough I could take all the shims out. Then I slid the arm over to the inside which exposed about an inch of the bolt cut that off then the arm fell out now I'll press the bolt out of the bushings thanks again