sbaba

I'm looking at a 71 LT-1 but it does not have the original motor.

What would it cost to get a correct LT-1 motor for this car?
Either to find an original or build and stamp one.
Thanks!

76CSRvette

it will never be an original lt-1 again but technically period correct. I don't know the cost though.
good luck

sbaba

I understand that but it may be possible to find a correctly dated motor.

Staylor63

There is a 1970 LT-1 rebuilt and ready to go near Detroit on Craig's list for $3500 with a D 21 0 date code....it's really nice.

Alan 71

Hi s,
I think it would be quite straight forward to find a block dated so that it could re-stamped to appear to be one suitable for for your car… it's might/will be quite another though to find all the other date/part number pieces that would go along with the block… the heads, intake manifold, carburetor, alternator, AIR system, etc..
It would be one thing to assemble the parts needed to appear to be the engine for your car to the casual observer, but quite another to assemble what would be needed for it to bear up to close scrutiny.
Which of those you're considering would certainly affect what the cost would be.
Regards,
Alan

Easy Mike

There is no original other than the one that's missing. Stamping a clone does not equate to originality. If originality is important to you, pass on this one and keep looking until you find an original car.

BBCorv70

If your interest is mainly looking for an LT-1 driver you should be able to find enough parts to reproduce an engine which appears as the original though not necessarily numbers correct, correct dates may be tough to find. The car could still do well in NCRS judging, block casting number and date carrying a lot of points. Otherwise if your interest is in joining the original matching numbers club, that would be difficult if not fraudulent. You would need to find parts with correct dates and would need to restamp the block to appear to be original. If you want a true original, best to look for another.

lakebumm

PM sent

Don Rickles

The OP stated it doesn't have it's original motor, but did not go further to say that it didn't have all the remaining pieces?

So, the question is how much for the motor. I'd say less than a few thousand, you should be able find a correctly configured, properly dated block.

Jebbysan

I often wonder intrinsically....why numbers mean so much.
Now do not go off on a flame.....but think of it this way:
If you built two identical LT-1 cars...nut to bolt...100 point restoration, one has a correct stamp and one is re-stamped.....what actually is the difference in value? They are identical except for some tool marks on a block pad......
I understand pedigree...and all that...I had a matching 66' so do not start yelling....but really think about it.
The OP would walk from the LT-1 in question as it now has no pedigree....but it could potentially be as good as a new one.
This murders CE block cars too.....

I mean...I know what number mean.....but I do not at the same time.
Sorry, carry on.

Jebby

MelWff

how does the OP know that the car left the factory as a LT-1? Do you have the tank sticker?

7T1vette

No one knows what is inside the motor but you. And, since you don't have the original motor, trying to build a 'correct' LT-1 motor without the correct VIN number on it would be somewhat of a wasted effort, since it will not garner any premium dollars when you sell it.

Nor is that "LT-1" car you are considering. Without the original engine, that car is just like all the rest non-LT-1 cars; so it shouldn't cost any more than a base model vehicle.

You would be MUCH better off spending that extra cost on a base model car in better condition, then modifying the outside of the SB engine with the standard LT-1 dress configuration. If you want to put 'good stuff' inside that engine (roller rockers/cam, modified cast iron or even aluminum heads, stroker crank and better rods/pistons) that would be all the better. You would still have the power and rev capability of the LT-1 engine [maybe better] and it would look just like an LT-1 on the outside. MUCH less expensive, too.

sbaba

Thanks everyone for their replies. I am looking for a driver and this car is dressed as an LT-1 with a SB 350 in it now. I am waiting for the seller to provide documentation (i.e. tank sticker) proving that the car is an LT-1. If there is not any then it is just a '71 with a fancy hood and pin stripes. If it is, putting in a correctly dated motor would make the car complete for me. As for others and what they think, that wouldn't matter because it would be my car.

I'm not looking for an investment, original or a Top Flight car but something fun to drive and sit next to my NOM BB 67. I certainly respect original and Top Flight cars but I want to drive and not worry about it. This car is not too far away from me and the price is fair for what is being offered.

joewill

OK, I will answer your question...

you can stamp it yourself for just the cost of the stamping dies.. maybe 100$.. many people will laugh at you though as it will be nowhere near factory looking.
or you can pay one of a very select few 2500$ to prepare the pad properly broached and correct patina, and them stamp with the correct fonts, locations, spacing, and sizes with the old GM Stamps. With similar characteristics to equal cars that are close in date of build.
this will pass all but a very few judges on the planet. but you have to find you a properly dated block, heads, intake, exhaust, holly carb, emissions, tranny ( stamp that too), rear end... and know and understand what that date should be. plus other characteristics of a true LT1.

Faster Rat

Value in use...probably nothing at all. Market value? That is determined by active participants in the market and is ruled by the law of supply and demand.

Easy Mike

It could well be all of that as it sits now without needing an engine or a stamp.

kenpofan

I'm in agreement with EayMike.... save the money from stamps and hunts.. keep the SBC add on a few power adders as money and time allow.. enjoy the car.

Priya

I understand where you're coming from. I'd feel the same way - owning an LT1 car with the original motor gone I'd feel its more desirable if it has the correctly dated motor as it would have been made. I'm sure a lot of other people would feel the same way too.

BBCorv70

Looking for a car which will be primarily a driver, the numbers may not mean much. Both the numbers car and NOM should appear and drive identically. Collectors put a huge emphasis on numbers looking at the car more for show or investment value than for driving. If the car is matching numbers, rare and low miles, driving may actually destroy value. The bigger $$ have been going for numbers cars because the people who insist on matching numbers will pay more for the car than someone who will settle for a NOM, looking for a driver.

From what I have read, the desire for matching numbers began way back when engines were routinely discarded if repairs exceeded the cost of replacement. Nobody cared. If a car had matching numbers it was a pretty safe bet it had been taken care of. Not necessarily true today given the lengths people will go to in order to save an original block. The only original component on some matching numbers engines is the block, nothing else. People seek numbers matching for various reasons not related to the quality of the car or how it performs.

Jebbysan

It sure does depend on the person.......
I sold my 69' 427/400 Matching Everything Time capsule for two reasons:
1) I would have never had the time or money to give it a proper restoration....
2) I could never modify a car like that (although I did put chambered pipes on it and lowered the front end). It was one of those cars that somebody needed to restore....and exactly the right person bought it.....I also knew what i had...and what it was valued at.
I now have anything but an original......this...overall....is better for me.
Matching cars are too Blue Chip for my raw lifestyle

Enjoy whatever you purchase OP.......

Jebby

Jebby