Rebuck33

Is there any good threads or guidance on weatherstripping installation for a C3? I have a 78 pace car and did a door tonight. Started on the piece where the window hits by the seat back and that piece appears to be riveted on, is that correct? I'm also not really sure the door piece is on perfectly. Any tips or advice would be great. Thanks.

DUB

YES...there rear vertical weatherstrips are pop riveted in place. And paying very careful attention to make sure that the grip range of the pop rivet will actually work and hold the rear vertical w/s.

Not knowing what you have done...or any issues you may have with the weatherstrips due to different manufacturers make them differently...and you can have a density issue. It is hard to tell you what to do.

I can say that it is almost imperative that you get the old adhesive off so the door is CLEAN and not just PILE ON more adhesive.

I do not know of any specific post. I have done them for a very long time and I have my own process of how I do them. And as I stated...I have customers who bring their Corvette to me to install weatherstripping they they bring along also and if it not what I like to install....I refuse to do it due to its density and KNOWING that I will have problems in getting it to not leak water or the windows work properly.

If the weatherstripping is still factory in your car that you are replacing and what you are installing is a lot denser...then you can not expect it to be the same....and everything works like it did before you changed out the weatherstripping.

And do not be surprised that you might need to do some window roller replacements also.

DUB

Rebuck33

Thanks DUB. As always, your a huge help. Do you have a secret solution to assist in the removal of the old goo? Also, what am I going to run into with the front verticle strip?

DUB

YES...I use 3M 8984 adhesive remover to take off the old adhesive. If you need my help...PM me.

DUB

SwampeastMike

You'll need two different length rivets to install those pieces. I always have an assortment of pop rivets on hand so I don't recall the exact lengths--just that there were two different lengths used. I believe they were 3/16" diameter.

In addition to 3M adhesive remover I found a sturdy plastic knife to be a useful, non-damaging tool.

DUB

I AGREE with 'SwampeastMike' that the rivets are different lengths.....and they are 3/16" diameter and I can not remember the lengths also....I check them before I put them in to make sure the grip range is correct and NOT too long.

I have never had any luck with any type of tool when removing the adhesive once the weatherstrip has been removed. I do use a tool to get as much of the stuck on weatherstrip off as possible...but from what I have found that if I keep re-wetting the adhesive and let the adhesive remover stay on it....it will turn the adhesive into a slimy/gooey mess where I remove it with a paper towel.

And if you time it right...and roll the adhesive in one direction back onto itself....it can actually begin to ball up and come off a bit easier. There is a fine line on the adhesive being too wet and slick and just being right to roll up and off.

DUB

Rebuck33

Thanks guys. I'm finally back working on this. Weatherstripping is on. Doors are good but the t-tops aren't fitting for crap and the windows aren't going up all the way. Any suggestions to either issue? I got the suggested weatherstripping kit from CA and it looks great but as far as function, I might as well only drive with the windows down and t-tops off.

grumpyonetwo

I would also like to hear about window problem, i replaced the outer seal/felt and now my windows will not go all the way up unless i give them a hand up. i replaced window guides (indoor felts 2 on each door) and there is plenty of play, so they are NOT putting presure on the windows. so any advise on how to cure this problem will be appreciated

Bill (in Australia)

SwampeastMike

I had pretty much the same feelings after replacing my weatherstripping (Corvette America). After adjusting the inboard positioners (there are shims) it installed FAR easier. A year or so later now with the tops on all winter and plenty of removals/replacements the tops go in easily.

I also have that window problem with my driver side door. The passenger side works perfectly. A bit of silicon grease on the rear pillar weatherstrip definitely helped but I still have to open the door for the window to go up the last 1/4" or so. I replaced the driver window motor with a remanufactured one from NAPA before the weatherstrip replacement. I suspect that the motor might be a bit weak. Both window mechanisms have been completely removed, cleaned and lubed with rollers, springs, etc. replaced.

0Willcox Corvette

If the outer felts are made of rubber with no cat hairs they will jamb up your windows. The original felts had a cat hair like finish to them and were slopped upward. There are cheap reproductions made with rubber that is about 1/4" wide and has no slope to them. They will drag on the glass and bind it up. You can trim them back to about 1/8" but then they won't wipe anything off the glass.

In regards to the rivet. If you have some long pop rivets, just pull the nail out of one and trim it back, then re-insert the nail. You can judge how far to trim it back by holding the weatherstrip up next to it. If the rivet is too long you'll poke a hole in the rubber so just eyeball it and you should be fine.

Willcox

grumpyonetwo

thanks for the quick reply, but the felts i bought were original, as in felts not rubber, i am wondering if the motors might be on the way out, the windows start out closing at a good speed, then about half way closed, they slow to a stop, about the area where the window has the slight bend/curve in it.

0Willcox Corvette

Have you re-adjusted the door glass? This might be the issue because if a motor is strong starting out (little resistance) then it should be strong to the finish.

For you.. since you are down under... I'd rebuild the motor.

It's very easy to do and possibly we should do a video on how to do this. But basically you want to pull the armature out... file the brushes (with a brush file... you'll probably need to round one up if possible), clean and dress the commutator and make sure the points are filed and clean. Once you install the armature and motor back together you then adjust by turning the adjustment (thrust stud) inward to 0 clearance. Then back it off 1/8 of a turn and lock the nut down...

You do that correctly you'll have a better motor than the reproductions any day.

Willcox

grumpyonetwo

Thanks for the advice, a video would be helpful as we are going into our winter here, my 79 is the garage with its cover over it hybernating, so if you have a chance to make a video, i will certainly have the time to rebuild the window motors, I will be waiting.

Bill.

Charles Lee

Hey there dub, Im having a similar problem, except my doors do close, but they stick out about a 1/4" from the body panel just behind the door. looks terrible. The weather stripping is installed correctly and i removed all old adhesive. I do believe that i need to work on the drivers side window a little bit, but thats not too bad. Its almost like someone changed the door alignment to compensate for the old worn weather stripping. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago and its driving me crazy. any ideas at all?

Kerschmolar

6 year old thread; start a new one. Let’s see a picture of your ‘new’ car! Moving the door latch post in will align the door but then the window will need adjusting. Adjust the hinges at the same time, if needed, then the windows.